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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it normal for the converter to not lockup for the first few miles of driving? Thats all I wanna know. Does it need to warm up a bit first?

A413 in a 92 T1 shadow.
 

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Is it normal for the converter to not lockup for the first few miles of driving? Thats all I wanna know. Does it need to warm up a bit first?

A413 in a 92 T1 shadow.
it says 60°-65° minimum coolant temp for lockup to apply (engine coolant sensor). also the pcm takes into account throttle position (throttle position sensor) and engine load (map sensor). it also needs to be in 3rd gear or drive for the clutch to apply
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, what Im saying is, I took the car out for a drive, the car was cold, hadnt been driven yet today. It was probably close to 70 out, got up to cruise speed at 55 or so, but the rpms were still up around 2800 or so, the TC wasnt locked apparently. It was like that for a few miles. It was in drive, and I would imagine the coolant temp was well over 60-65 by then. It was also at cruise. Not normal then?
 

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nope, not normal.. but how did you make the determination that LU didn't apply for a few miles. 2800 doesn't sound that far off @ 60 with LU. how you can verify LU function is cruise down the road, very lightly apply brakes with your left foot while holding constant speed with the right. when I mean lightly, just enough where the brake lights would come on without actually making the brakes apply. when doing this, watch your tach, RPM would increase approximately 200 RPM when the brake is applied. release the brake and watch the tach, within 10-40 seconds, the RPM will drop approx 200 rpm when lockup applies.

another method to pin point the possible problem is to connect a real scanner (not a code reader). while driving down the road, have the scanner in reading data mode. find LU request line. if LU request is YES (or ON), then the computer has energized the solenoid and RPM will drop approx 200 rpm. apply brake and see if LU request reads NO (or off) then there is no lockup.

other things that will cause LU delay or not work is a miss-adjusted brake light switch (forgot to mention that in the initial response).

additionally problems can occur with wiring, PCM, valve body, solenoid, connections of wiring, the torque converter it's self, internal transmission problems (including seals, gaskets, hard parts).

HUGE possibilites related your perceived problem. so first verify if there is any lockup, 2nd use a scanner to verify PCM command/sensors/etc. 3rd get into testing based on your diagnosis. for example, you go for a drive and verify there is no lockup until the engine is fully warmed up (min temp 160deg) scanner shows YES to lockup. so then diagnosis would dictate that investigation needs to be done with wiring, connector, solenoid, hydraulic pressure etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I know its a lockup thing, normal 55mph cruise is actually under 2500 rpm. I can tell when it goes into lockup, its almost like its going into its nonexistent overdrive.

A scanner is out of my reach, and undoubtedly my budget...
 

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I know its a lockup thing, normal 55mph cruise is actually under 2500 rpm. I can tell when it goes into lockup, its almost like its going into its nonexistent overdrive.

A scanner is out of my reach, and undoubtedly my budget...
I guess you'll have to live with it. if you don't have the right tools, or money to pay someone with the right tools, you're basically SOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I actuated the brake light switch cruising at 55mph. The rpms jump a couple hundred and go back down a couple seconds after letting off the brake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry, I dont know what you mean exactly. All I get from that is that the brake light switch is working alright.
 

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read paragraph #1 in post #4. You followed exactly what I said, and you verified what should happen. doesn't that show you that the lockup is functioning?

as for you initial question about time delay for lockup, you need to start with a cold engine and see if lockup is functioning. observations you need to make: how long have I been driving before lockup comes on? on a warm day, it should start working in a steady cruise (above 35-40mph) light throttle etc.

but anyway, your reply #7 clearly shows a properly working lockup
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well had the issue again, 2800 rpms or so at cruise. Car was cold, tapped the brake pedal and a couple seconds later it went into lockup. Soo..... I dunno. Guess Ill just tap the pedal.
 

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sounds like when the engine is cold you are having a slight delay with lockup. the ONLY way to fix this is have a professional transmission shop rebuild your transmission. or just live with the minor inconvience it's causing you.
 
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