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Putting A Turbo Motor Into Your TBI Car

first a few things, make sure you get a motor that runs, this may seem obvious, but if possible, have the motor started up for you if its an auto check the flex plate, trust me, i swapped myne and, and couldnt get the motor started because the flex plate was broken do not try to use your stock fuel pump if you dont have very much experiance removing motors, or swapping motors, have a friend with the experiance help you

What you will need.
  • haynes manual, dont think you can do this without it wiring harness from the same year (computer year) turbo model of your car, a shadow harness will not work in a daytona, and a daytona harness will not work in a shadow, remember this
  • all solenoids, bar/map, and definatly all sub harneses for that year turbo
    motor turbo engine, complete, if i were you i would stick with an 89+ common block transmission, if your car is 87+, stick with an 87+ tranny, the axles are
    smaller earlyer years....
  • fuel pump, i would suggest just getting a wallbro right off the bat
  • various tools including a cherry picker, jack, jack stands, etc....

The gritty of it.

  • change the fuel pump, definatly do this first, once you have that engine in your going to want to start it right away, better have the right fuel pump. follow the haynes manual instructions for removing the fuel pump in your car, replace your fuel pump with the wallbro unit, you may have to splice the power wires that go to the pump itself, this should be pretty self explanitory.
  • replace ALL the fuel lines with high pressure hose, not that bs 50psi hose IT WILL BURST, get the 100 or 175 psi fuel line. might as well replace your filter, it is the same filter as in the turbo cars, but new pump, spend the cash and buy a new filter, again REPLACE ALL the fuel lines going in and out of the filter.
thats it for fuel, for me it was a basicly bolt on affair, shouldnt be much differant for you.

  • if you dont know how to remove the old engine, STOP, have someone with more experiance to help you.
  • disconnect all sensors, fuel lines, water lines, etc from the old engine -remove the axles (back to that haynes manual!), do not use a pickle fork to remove the ball joints unless you want to buy new ones
  • set up and affix the engine to the cherry picker, lift the motor as to take weight off the mounts, but not lift the car
  • unbolt the pass side mount, front mount, bobble strut (if standard), and the drivers side mount will have to be completly removed from the engine and the frame rail, i was not able to remove the engien without completly removing this mount
  • lift the engine out, it may be easyer to unbolt the rad and remove it with the engine

Wiring harness
  • start removing that wiring harness, your new harness will begin to make sense as you remove the old harness, on daytonas you have a big bulkhead
    connector, shadows its in the dash, i dont know about older models (sbec, smec)
  • take all the old relays and soleniods out aswell, your turbo relays and solenoids are differant
  • you will notice on the the solenoids has a bunch of lines going to a can in the fender well, this is the coal canister, dont worry about it, just remove all the lines
  • once you have the old harness out it should be pretty easy to put the new one in, if you somewhat rememberd what you did, it will all make sense -zip tie or use those fancy clips to get the wiring harness out of the way, try to zip tie it in a way that the new engine will go in easy

  • transfer any mounts, accessorys over that you dont have on the new engine, bolt everything up now, putting the starter, or turbo on while the motor is in the car is a real pain.
  • the new engine should slide right in like the old engine came out, these blocks are identicle
  • all of the plugs are idiot proof, dont worry about screwing this up, they will ither only go 1 place, or they are color coded, and they will only reach one area
  • make shure all the connectors are plugged in and make shure every ground is hooked up, if your missing one ground it might have problems, seriously -re-use your old axles, assuming they are in good shape and the tranny is 87+ (if you car is 87+, car before then use a 86 tranny and your old 87+ axles)
  • replace ALL fuel hose in the engine bay with high pressure stuff, the tbi lines come right up where they need to be, nothing fancy there -hook up the tranny linkages -hook up the brake booster

this is really not as hard as everyone thinks on these cars, for the car to run you only need 2 vaccum lines, 1 to the fuel pressure regulator, 1 to the map, these are crucial, for these lines i would suggest running a large t off the main vaccum source on the manifold (1/2" nipple out of the middle of the manifold), have 1 side of the t running to the FPR the other side to your map sensor, use good vaccum line, as large as will fit, especially to the map, having a shitty line, or something tapping before the map line can cause running issues block the other vaccum sources on the manifold if you dont need them for anything there are 2 vaccum nipples on the throttlr body, 1 for ported vaccum, 1 goes straight through, i belive the little one goes straight through, run your blow off valve and boost gauge off here block all other vaccum sources you can run the wastegate line to the wastegate solenoid, i ran mine directly to the nipple on the outlet of the turbo, this give you less boost and its slower to come on, but keep it this way for now, drive it a bit, make shure everything works, then throw in a g valve and boost gauge, and put it back to stock, DONT GET GREEDY, run the motor for a while, make sure its ok before this, unless you want a blown engine that you just put in.

dont worry about the coal canister, i didnt hook it up, many people on the board didnt either, the car still runs fine dont put any check valves or any kind of bs in the fpr and map lines, your car will have problems​
Start up!
  • check all yoru fluids
  • check all your grounds
  • check all electrical and vaccum connections
  • set sparkplug 1 to TDC (haynes manual)
  • hook up the battery
  • turn the key to the run position, this will prime the fuel pump, check for leaks now, if you find any leaks, definatly fix them, and did you install that wallbro yet?
  • after you have checked and re-checked everything, try turning the motor
    over, if it fires right away be happy, and let the car idle for 10-20 minutes, the computer will ajust things, and the engine will smoke like a banshee, burning grease and oil off the manifolds and whattever fell in the cylinders (this is normal)
  • while the car is running check for leaks, check the engine temprature, etc
  • after the engine is up to operating temprature, you can time it with your timing light (haynes manual)
  • take it for a drive, hope everything works, take it easy for a week or so, make shure everything is ok before you turn the boost up to stock

if im missing any info that you guys want send me a pm and i will add it

im keeping the basics vague for a reason, if you dont know how to remove an engine, you shouldnt be doing this, or have someone with experiance help you. once i have the 5 spd in my car ill take a couple pics of my conversion and add a thread on converting auto-stick, hope this helps guys

Phaxtris, AKA Ryan
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