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Coolant change?

2915 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Scottyp72
Just wondering how to change the coolant just drain the rad. and refill or should I use a bottle of the flush stuff? I dont want trash my head gasket Ive heard that these cars are bad for blowing head gaskets is this just the turbo cars or all of them

I drained about half the coolant out last winter when I installed a new thermostat is that enough (replaced it with 50/50 mix) or should I do all of it
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If you want to flush everything out, including the heater core I like to buy the prestone kit sold about everywhere. You end up splicing into ont of your heater lines (the one going into it) and hose clamp a "T" fitting into it to attach a garden hose. Open the rad cap, start the car up and turn on the hose. Makes a mess but run it till you see nothing but clean water come out of rad. Then shut it off, drain the water from rad and fill back up with 50/50 and you should be good. I am sure other people have other ways but this works for me.
is it really nessesary to flush the system can I just drain and refill the coolant doesnt look to bad just a little dirty looking like a off color in the over flow res. its a nice pretty green in the rad. its self
Chryslers method on the 2.2/2.5L engine.

Draining
Relieve the pressure from the cap then reinstall the cap.
Open the radiator petcock, the overflow bottle will drain.
Once the overflow bottle drains remove the rad cap and the radiator will drain.
Remove the hex plug in the head behind the t-stat housing, the block will drain.

Filling
Close the rad petcock, fill the system until the coolant level stays level with the opening in the head where the hex plug is located.
When the block is full reinstall the hex plug, fill the radiator and overflow.
The system is now full and there will be no air in the system.
thats easy enough so when I see in the head near the thermostat reinstall the plug and fill the rad. and overflow bottle
If it were me, I'd simply drain the radiator and refill with a 50/50 mix of your preferred coolant and DISTILLED water (not tap). If your coolant is really old, then drive it to operating temp, allow to cool down and repeat one more time.

I've used the complete flush method before, but you introduce tap water and all of the various impurities of municipal water into your coolant system. If you wonder why this is bad, just go and look at the shower heads in your bathroom. Plus, if you go this route, realize there is still about 50% of the fluid volume still in your system once completely flushed. That remaining fluid is now 100% tap water, so you'd need to fill your radiator with 75%-100% coolant, ensuring a 50/50 mix once the fluids mix.

Coolant is so cheap, that I change it every year. If you do it every 12 months, simply draining the radiator and refilling with a fresh coolant/distilled water mix will ensure that the system is always tip-top.
I never have had a problem removing the hex plug probably because it has been out every two years for the last 20 years and reinstalled with anti-sieze lube.
I also keep extra's on hand so if it starts to round i just replace it.
Still available from Mopar, used in the Jeep/Dodge Truck 3.7/4.7 engines.
After you fill to the top of the opening and fill slowly so it pushes all air out without "splooging" all over wait a minute for the level to settle and add more if need be until it "stays" level.
I do not think coolant is that inexpensive any more, $12.99 a gallon weather it is unmixed(where 1 gallon makes 2) or already premixed(what a ripoff)
Chryslers method on the 2.2/2.5L engine.

Draining
Relieve the pressure from the cap then reinstall the cap.
Open the radiator petcock, the overflow bottle will drain.
Once the overflow bottle drains remove the rad cap and the radiator will drain.
Remove the hex plug in the head behind the t-stat housing, the block will drain.

Filling
Close the rad petcock, fill the system until the coolant level stays level with the opening in the head where the hex plug is located.
When the block is full reinstall the hex plug, fill the radiator and overflow.
The system is now full and there will be no air in the system.
Could this hex plug also be a coolant temp sending unit?
4
Could this hex plug also be a coolant temp sending unit?
The Coolant Temperature Sensor that the Engine Controller uses for actual coolant temp is located in the side of the cylinder head behind the thermostat.
The Hex Plug that needs to be removed to properly drain and refill the cooling system is located in the top of the cylinder head behind the thermostat.

The Coolant Temperature Sending Unit used for gauge operation or idiot light operation is located in the block above the oil filter.
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The Coolant Temperature Sensor that the Engine Controller uses for actual coolant temp is located in the side of the cylinder head behind the thermostat.
The Hex Plug that needs to be removed to properly drain and refill the cooling system is located in the top of the cylinder head behind the thermostat.
View attachment 285755
The Coolant Temperature Sending Unit used for gauge operation or idiot light operation is located in the block above the oil filter.
View attachment 285752 View attachment 285753 View attachment 285754
mine does not have a plug on top of the t stat housing? I removed the temp sensor and filled till it came out of that hole. Interesting
Really?
Year, engine?
I have always jacked the drivers side high so the coolant fill neck it the high spot in the cooling system. With cap off, heater in full, start the engine and let all the bubbles come out the filler neck.
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