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Discussion Starter #1
Whats up fellas. My mind has been grinding on cooling improvements i can make to the motor now that im reassembling.

First off, ive read about the #4 cooling mod as well as Popes spin on it with drilling and tapping the end of the head for rerouting coolant. What doesnt make much sense to me is how the end of the head and the water box/thermostat neck should be nearly equivalent pressure so how does the #4 mod really move that much water...

So then i was thinking, well why not run the #4 coolant mod back to the waterpump inlet? This would provide the preasure differential to move coolant straight out of the head at the #4 cylinder. This would be great for warming up the motor and no hotspots. But then my mind starts thinking that id be creating a "radiator bypass" of sorts that could end up causing over heating situations if it were sized so large that the radiator hardly moves water when the thermostat opens...

My question is... Is the heater loop affectively a rad bypass since it leaves the head, through the heater core, and the back to the pump? Does the heater loop always move water even when the hvac is off?

Im leaning towards doing the #4 mod with -4 back to the pump inlet. Prob not large enough of a "radiator bypass" to be an issue.


Thanks guys!
~Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice! So you are talking it straight to the pump then. What size is the line? Any issues with the radiator keeping up?

thank you,
Mark
 

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Most of us don't bother trying too cool our heater or starter motors.

ENGINE wise, some do run a line from the Engine cyl head to the water pump.

The inventor Gary mounted the thermostat housing there to change the outlet.

It's not really about moving huge amounts of water, more like a steam escape.

I think most any way could be effective, no one I know has done extensive testing.

Monitoring spark knock (detonation) with a scanner would be one way.

Another guy told me he enlarged the water passages below the exhaust valve.

He thought they were too small and it helped but he wouldn't elaborate further.

Thanks
Randy
 

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Nice! So you are talking it straight to the pump then. What size is the line? Any issues with the radiator keeping up?

thank you,
Mark
Go to this link if you want more info of my car.

5/8 hose with a 3/8 restrictor inside. The restrictor makes zero difference in warm up time.

I live in 110F Arizona with working a/c. No issue with my aftermarket radiator and aftermarket fan.

I'm also using this for waterpump, also no issue.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
...sigh. Please dont make this an engine/motor definition thread. We have all been there, seen it, and read the sequel.

The steam escape statement is intriguing for sure. Makes me wonder if raising the fitting higher up in the head would be beneficial... ill look at my head when i get home.

Im curious how the water passages were enlarged. Talking just with a die grinder from under the head?

Thank you guys,
Mark
 

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...sigh.

Agree with the fitting as high as possible.

He said he enlarged the passages in the head, block and gasket.

Don't remember exactly but 3/8" comes to mind.

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Randy
 

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Whats up fellas. My mind has been grinding on cooling improvements i can make to the motor now that im reassembling...
Thanks guys!
~Mark
Port your waterpump housing. It is ridiculously bad in it's stock condition. Some are far worse than others.
Early block housings have a lot of meat so you can be aggressive porting in the short turn area. CB pumps don't have a lot of meat in the short turn area, so if you get motivated to improve the short turn, you should weld this area up before porting. Other areas can be further enhanced in the housing area as well. This is what did to provide cooler coolant to #4 cylinder in addition to the core plug mod that ASA fabricated for us.
IMG_7548.JPG
 

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That's a very nice installation as usual Todd !

Possibly a little different in theory but very intriguing.

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Randy
 

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That's a very nice installation as usual Todd !

Possibly a little different in theory but very intriguing.

Thanks
Randy
Completely unnecessary for a mild build, but this one is pushed pretty hard. #4 does without a doubt, run hotter than the others (without mods), and leaner too thanks to that log exhaust manifold. The thought is keep #4 cool and happy. I made three core plugs with different ends. 3/8" 45° flare is pictured. #-06AN, and a 3/8" hose barb. Each of these silver soldered. I settled on the steel flare, as it was the most stealthy looking.
 
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