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Discussion Starter #1
89 2.5 Turbo Auto

Weeping from this 16MM nut. How do you even get a wrench on this to attempt to tighten?

Anyone have the part number for this tube assembly as I already know this will not end well.

Thanks,
Bib
 

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a 'crow-foot' might work..

I would try heating it up with a propane torch..
If you use a Crowsfoot be sure to use a Flared Crowsfoot or you will round off the edges.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-38-in-metric-crowfoot-flare-nut-wrench-set-68999.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-sae-crowfoot-flarenut-wrench-set-93137.html

If you are using a long extension to reach the nut use 1/2" drive and then a reducer from 1/2" to 3/8" for the crowsfoot.
A long 3/8" drive extension will act like a torsion bar and just twist and the result will be no torque generated at the nut.

Both hoses are still available if you want Mopar OE.
Unfortunately they are Really Pricey.
https://www.rearcounter.com/4387239-parts1009331.html
https://www.rearcounter.com/4483944-parts1012374.html
 

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post a thread in the parts wanted section
a decent used water supply line shouldn't be toooo hard to find around here...

the hose section is easily replaceable like the ones at the end of the head - same clamps

and you keep the fitting with it's nipple that threads into the back of the block after removing the same compression fitting found on all the hose ends like you already fixed

there should also be a support bracket that clamps around the steel portion of the line near the hose section
that bracket then attaches to the engine with one of the power steering pump mount bolts .. I think.. or one like it - near it ..

if you're missing that bracket you can probably figure it's why the fitting is leaking along with the addition of rust
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay, pressurized system...2 or 3 pin holes just under the nut. Since I am replacing it I just took a dremel (after draining the system...no, that would have been way too smart) and cut it just under the nut. Removed the bracket (it was there) and the hose pretty much pulled right off the block.

So away I go with a 1/2" breaker bar, extension and 15mm socket. Just makes it in and away I go....until I notice the turbo going with it. Seems a bit too much movement as I try to break that nut loose. She is flexing back and forth where the screwdriver is pointing.

Next the torch....more to follow.

Bib
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The turbo is missing a clamp between the center section and turbine housing.
You'd want to put one back on there before the turbo destroy itself. I wouldn't even touch anything at the center section until you have clamp back on.

https://www.turbododge.com/forums/attachments/parts-sale/34451d1272897550-nos-88-89-90-2-5-tmpphpdpxrfm.jpg

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-TD04-Turbocharger-V-band-Clamp-Set-73mm/152577603842?epid=15004321698&hash=item2386557902:g:QMgAAOSweW5VJMrO
Thank you so much!! Just purchased off of e-bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, clamp on order. Will do nothing untill installed. I feel like such a dipshit for not noticing. She runs amazing with just a small stumble at idle. Man am I glad I stopped to ask the question.
 

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Do you think wrapping the drain hose with a bit of foil backed insulation would prolong the life of the new part? I may try that on my own as my engine has only 1/2 running time from the factory. You are right parts are hard to find so we may have to stock some of our own if we keep are cars long enough. Bib you did very well and I wish you luck in the reinstall. Silver antiseize?
 

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Next the torch....more to follow.

Bib
If you need to use heat then use MAPP Gas, gets much hotter than propane.
Also, while you are waiting for your turbo clamp keep soaking the nut with rust penetrate and when it is time to remove the nut try to tighten the nut first (just a slight turn to tighten), this may loosen the rust holding the nut and help to loosen it.
That procedure works very well on brake bleeder screws so they come loose without breaking, tighten before loosening.

You are right parts are hard to find so we may have to stock some of our own if we keep are cars long enough.
I have a couple of large totes filled with Mopar NOS parts and aftermarket parts at home.
I bought my car new and when I was a Chrysler tech (1995-2010) we got Mopar parts at 10% over cost so I stocked up on dealer only parts that had failed in the past or were likely to fail in the future.
I also kept checking certain small/hard parts (that I knew were not available aftermarket) at the DC's to see if the part was NS1 and if so how many were left in the country, when supplies were getting low I usually made sure I ordered one or two to keep on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Clamp received. Do I torque to a specific callout or just till tight enough?
Clamp installed. Was able to remove turbo coolant line nut with ease after letting it sit a few days with Blaster on it. Yup, tightened first a bit, she moved and then all was gravy.

Will install new (used) coolant line purchased from a member when received.

Then I'll make a gasket and reinstall oil line with new hose.

Refill cooling system, oil/filter change and hopefully have a few more nice days for top down crusing.

Thanks to all!
 

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That plug is one heck of a SOB as well, everyone I come across is fused to the aluminum, if you just try to turn it you'll strip it out. I heat it up with a torch from the inside with the thermostat removed. once removed I replace it with a NPT square drive plug or a valve.
 

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Every year I loosen the plug a little and retighten it so when I need to remove it I know it will loosen easily.

The original Chrysler plug is still available from Mopar.

Mopar Part #6034331
Bleed Plugs.jpg
 
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