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Hey!

My 89 Daytona (2.2L Turbo) has been running a bit hot so I am in the process of replacing the thermostat (etc.) and radiator. I've checked on RockAuto but am unsure if the radiators listed will fit with an intercooler. Has anyone ordered them and had successful fitting? Is there another site that would have more options?

Thank you!
 

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Hey!

My 89 Daytona (2.2L Turbo) has been running a bit hot so I am in the process of replacing the thermostat (etc.) and radiator. I've checked on RockAuto but am unsure if the radiators listed will fit with an intercooler. Has anyone ordered them and had successful fitting? Is there another site that would have more options?

Thank you!
I was in the same position a month ago.
My car's issue was the cooling system is dirty. I would suggest a good chemical treatment such as Thermocure https://evapo-rust.com/thermocure/ available at Walmart or even the Prestone cleaner.
Followup with a good flush...
 

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Thanks for the tip!

I've flushed the system a couple times with very little change. This car is my daily and needs to be completely reliable again for college that's why I am looking to replace most of the cooling system!
 

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Thanks for the tip!

I've flushed the system a couple times with very little change.
Did you use a chemical cleaner and let it run for a few days or a week to clean the internal metal surfaces? If not, you likely have scale on the inside passages that reduce the ability to cool the engine, a simple water flush is not good enough. If your rad is leaking or has physically damage, it makes sense to replace.
Sorry to repeat here, but i would hate to see you spend all the money unless it is needed.
I used https://www.walmart.com/ip/Prestone-Radiator-Flush-Cleaner-22-fl-oz-Bottle/35764365 and the overheating stopped within a day and the engine crackling after turning off has also vanished. I drove over 1000 miles four days ago in 90+ heat with everything running nice and cool.
I will now stop bugging you.
 

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The T-2/T-4 radiators are not available aftermarket and are no longer available from Chrysler.

First determine why the vehicle is running hot/overheating.

Flushing, replacing the T-Stat, Radiator Pressure Cap and Filling with the Proper 50/50 Mix of Coolant being sure to Fill Properly so there is no air in the system is a good first step.
Our t-stats do not have a bleed hole,drilling a 1/8" hole in the t-stat housing and placing that hole in the 12 o'clock position when installing will help to alleviate air when filling and lessens "thermal shock" on the head gasket.

SEE The Dodge Garage
Turbo Database, How To Section, Section 27 Tricks and Tips for Going Fast, Item #2.
(You can still use the recommended 195 t-stat when doing this so the engine runs at the proper temp that Chrysler recommends and you have good heat in the winter.)

The other things to look at are...
1)Is the cooling fan cycling on and at the proper temp?
(You can backprobe the CTS and read the voltage when the fan cycles on and off, see images below)
2)Are there any soft/collapsed hoses.
3)Are there any obstructions in front of the radiator/condenser?
4)Is the front lower air dam installed properly?
On cars with no frontal grill area (Daytona/Lebaron) the air dam is crucial, its job is to divert cooler air up to the radiator when the vehicle is moving at speed, if the air dam is missing/damaged the result will be running hot/overheating when the car is in motion.)

PROPER DRAINING/FILLING OF THE COOLING SYSTEM
Cooling System Drain and Refill 1.jpg

Cooling System Drain and Refill 2.jpg

BACKPROBING THE CTS/CHECKING ACTUAL COOLANT TEMP
Backprobing the CTS.jpg

CTS VOLTAGE CHART 2.jpg
 

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The T-2/T-4 radiators are not available aftermarket and are no longer available from Chrysler.
Last fall I got my T-2 Rad recored by a local Rad shop. The owner told me that IT IS an Omni Rad but I am unsure if that is correct or not. He claimed to fix hundreds of these over the years.
 

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Last fall I got my T-2 Rad recored by a local Rad shop. The owner told me that IT IS an Omni Rad but I am unsure if that is correct or not. He claimed to fix hundreds of these over the years.
Does the T-2 radiator have plastic or metal tanks.

My T-4 has plastic tanks and nobody would touch it saying that once the tanks leak or are removed they never seal properly again.
 

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Does the T-2 radiator have plastic or metal tanks.

My T-4 has plastic tanks and nobody would touch it saying that once the tanks leak or are removed they never seal properly again.
My T-2 Rad on my 87 CSX has a copper core. I can understand the concern with plastic tanks, so I think I will get my spare T-2 Rad recored before buddy retires.
 

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There are some things to check that can influence how hot a motor runs. The more advanced the timing is, for example, can trap more heat in the engine before the exhaust valve opens. 12 degrees is o.k., but any more than 15 degrees BTDC is too much. Or a leaky injector could make it run rich and hot. Or check the compression to make sure it is not a leaking head gasket.
I used some Hyperlube Super-Cool additive on my '89 Lancer Shelby, 2.2 w/555 Getrag and it helped. A thermostat that opens early can also help. Drilling a 1/8" hole is conservative, as long as you have the drill out, drill more than one hole!
 

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Also consider other factors, like a clogged cat! The catalytic converter can break apart and lodge in the exhaust, sometimes creating excessive back pressure. And, as far as that goes, the less back pressure the better!
Any good muffler shop can drill a tiny hole and measure the temp. and/or pressure.
I agree with NAJ, you have got to be a bit of Sherlock Holmes and make some good deductions from the available evidence.
That means trying to figure out why the engine runs hot.

My cars, at least in general, have always ran so cool that I thought something must be wrong with the Temperature Sensor!
Too many ailments are blamed on a bad radiator! It gets a bad rap, but, I must agree, I do not like the plastic!
I love turning on the ignition 3 times
,,,and getting the "Double-High-Five" and no other DTC messages (Diagnostic Trouble Code)
That means you are Golden.
Mark,
Turbo Boost Forever!
 

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I run the '86 Laser wider aluminum T1 radiator, with an aftermarket intercooler located in front. It requires redoing air plumbing, but cools great.
 

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I run the '86 Laser wider aluminum T1 radiator, with an aftermarket intercooler located in front. It requires redoing air plumbing, but cools great.

yeah?

look for one to fit a K car with the 2.6 mitsu "hemi"

it will fit G body - NOT L

it will be wider yet again than the regular log turbo, turbo z rad or the base aluminum plastic N-A G body rad

it used it's own unique fan shroud with 3 flap doors on the shroud by the alternator
-plastic tank , alum core

you'll need to extend the top rad hose a few inches
.....a piece of the chrome tubing from your mom's old '70's canister style vacuum cleaner will do
- seriously ..
bottom hose will work unchanged

in and out are in the same places on the 2.6 rads
 
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