Here's what's on my mind at the moment:
1) Is it allright to just tap my O2 gauge into the O2 and signal ground lines on the LM harness? I'm aware that everyone says to run the wires right to the sensor and to the battery ground, but then there's the controversy about "false rich" due to ground-path resistance.
I'm just wondering about how much inductive or capacitive load the gauge puts on its input. If you just tapped into those lines right before the LM, you'd be seeing exactly what the LM is seeing-accurate or not. Plus, the wiring in the car would be cleaner.
2)I'd like to unscrew my Oil Pressure Sending Switch(the one that operates the idiot light) and put the sending unit for my Autometer gauge there. Then I'd clip the wire at the LM end, and split it off to my gauge for a reading, and to a comparitor to emulate the idiot light functionality. The output of the circuit would go where the sending switch output went on the LM. What's the signal output of the sensor for the idiot light?
Thanks!!
1) Is it allright to just tap my O2 gauge into the O2 and signal ground lines on the LM harness? I'm aware that everyone says to run the wires right to the sensor and to the battery ground, but then there's the controversy about "false rich" due to ground-path resistance.
I'm just wondering about how much inductive or capacitive load the gauge puts on its input. If you just tapped into those lines right before the LM, you'd be seeing exactly what the LM is seeing-accurate or not. Plus, the wiring in the car would be cleaner.
2)I'd like to unscrew my Oil Pressure Sending Switch(the one that operates the idiot light) and put the sending unit for my Autometer gauge there. Then I'd clip the wire at the LM end, and split it off to my gauge for a reading, and to a comparitor to emulate the idiot light functionality. The output of the circuit would go where the sending switch output went on the LM. What's the signal output of the sensor for the idiot light?
Thanks!!