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I recently bought a 1987 Daytona with the 2.2 innercooled turbo. A lot of the vacume lines are busted up and missing. Well the first problem I'm having is idealing problem, it is idealing really high when parked, it goes up to high idel then drops back down and the repeats it self over and over, could this be caused by my lines being messed up? Also it seems like the waste gate isn't opening right, also a vacum problem? Is there any where I can find a diagram for the vacum lines? Also how hard is it to install a blow off valve? Do they keep the power the same? Cause turbo lag or lower the power?
Thanks,
Zach
 

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Thanks guys really appreciate the help, as you can probably tell this is my first with the 2.2 and no really nothing about it, when installing the bov is there a certain vacum line I need to use?
 

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Just make sure not to buy the cheap stuff. These turbo dodges put out a lot of underhood heat and cheap vacuum lines within a short period of time can collapse. I had a really weird issue after replacing my stock lines with some cheap (although it looked descent) vaccuum line. Well not too long after when the car was in vaccuum the vaccuum line actually collapsed and I had driveability issues of course.
 

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Also what are the significants to the vacum block? I want to keep my motor some what stock only really looking to do gauges like a boost gauge, bov and maybe cold air, also with these motors what are some other gauges I should put in to help keep a closer eye on everything
 

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The T-2 cars are actually pretty simple as far as vac goes. You should have a vac diagram in your engine bay that tells you where all the lines go. Just make sure to install the orifices correctly (little plastic pieces that look like a vac line connector but have a small brass insert with a tiny hole in the center). I hooked my BOV into the barb directly off the turbo outlet, as you want the BOV to be operated as quickly as possible by the backlash of air when you let off the throttle. Good gauges to get are a wideband air/fuel meter, a quality oil pressure gauge, and good boost gauge. Also you could get a pyrometer, but they are expensive and unnecessary if you have the wideband and watch it.
 

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You need to do this
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/363281-installing-vacuum-blocks-84-93-turbo.html
This should solve all of your problems and while your doing this you can add a BOV very easily. It just goes on you top intercooler pipe along with a vaccum line to the vacuum block
Yea if you want to make your car look like a rats nest.

Also what are the significants to the vacum block? I want to keep my motor some what stock only really looking to do gauges like a boost gauge, bov and maybe cold air, also with these motors what are some other gauges I should put in to help keep a closer eye on everything
People are too lazy to rebuild the factory stuff properly.

I used just plain fuel injection hose, the Silicone or colored line kits just heat up, get soft and suck shut. If you use the link 90benson gave you above, my post is in there with a simple vac setup that works pretty good. Eliminates the junk and just leaves what's needed.
Fixed? I think you're thinking of Silicone. Though if Poly touches a 180 degree head it will do the same but so will factory nylon. The key is just to keep it from directly touching 180 degree metal. But silicone will suck shut and baloon at a far lower temp.


Here's my vac harness' Poly Vacuum Line Setups

click on pics for larger versions. They use the factory 4 way splitter, and factory connectors. The only thing I did was upgrade to poly line for better bending capabilities and so they'll last forever instead of getting hard and brittle like nylon.

And installed in the car. CIMG0683

can you see it? Didn't think so.
 

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Yea if you want to make your car look like a rats nest.



People are too lazy to rebuild the factory stuff properly.



Fixed? I think you're thinking of Silicone. Though if Poly touches a 180 degree head it will do the same but so will factory nylon. The key is just to keep it from directly touching 180 degree metal. But silicone will suck shut and baloon at a far lower temp.


Here's my vac harness' Poly Vacuum Line Setups

click on pics for larger versions. They use the factory 4 way splitter, and factory connectors. The only thing I did was upgrade to poly line for better bending capabilities and so they'll last forever instead of getting hard and brittle like nylon.

And installed in the car. CIMG0683

can you see it? Didn't think so.
Lol I'll admit, thats why I wanna keep the factory system as well. Its looks so much better than vac blocks do. Only problem is finding splitters that are good enough in my case.
 

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I just did my vac block yesterday it looks like a rats nest if you use 100 ft of line and zip ties with the block out in the open. The way mine will end up being set up is bolting it to the firewall behind the intake and using hose clamps with wire looms. I have seen plenty of low profile vac blocks that actually have a show car look..... if you have the hew extra $$$
 

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the problem with putting it behind the intake is it's subject to all the heat coming off the turbo. Then your vac lines are a lot longer than nessacary which means things happen in the engine before the ECU can react. You want vac lines as short as possible. Hence why mopar and just about every other make that uses a speed density system mounts the MAP sensor directly to the intake manifold.
 
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