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Discussion Starter #21
I would "deadhead" the pump first, then temporarily bypass the filter and recheck pressure.
If it is still low be sure there are no restrictions in the line(s) from the tank to the fuel rail, if ok, remove and inspect the hanger, replace the pump if needed.
When I deadhead it by pinching the return line the pressure doesn't change - it stays at around 20.
 

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That is definitely a problem, the pressure should rise instantly to a minimum of 80 PSI.
My Walbro pegs my gauge at 100 PSI instantly.
Static rail pressure is 53-57 PSI, engine running rail pressure drops 1PSI for every 1"HG applied to the FPR.
In boost, rail pressure rises 1 PSI above static for every 1 lb of boost.
Rail pressure at 12 lbs of boost will be 65-69 PSI on a properly running vehicle.
You could have a bad pump, a clogged pickup, collapsed/ ruptured rubber line on the hanger assembly or a restriction in the line from the tank to the fuel rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
That is definitely a problem, the pressure should rise instantly to a minimum of 80 PSI.
My Walbro pegs my gauge at 100 PSI instantly.
Static rail pressure is 53-57 PSI, engine running rail pressure drops 1PSI for every 1"HG applied to the FPR.
In boost, rail pressure rises 1 PSI above static for every 1 lb of boost.
Rail pressure at 12 lbs of boost will be 65-69 PSI on a properly running vehicle.
You could have a bad pump, a clogged pickup, collapsed/ ruptured rubber line on the hanger assembly or a restriction in the line from the tank to the fuel rail.
Awesome info and thanks so much for your patience with me :).

If I end up buying a new pump does it not come with the hanger assembly? Not sure how to test the fuel pressure in front of the filter with what I have.
 

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Follow the directions I posted above and you will not have to check pressure in front of the filter.
As far as the pump, it depends, you can buy the entire hanger assembly or just the pump.
If you use a Walbro it is just the pump and you may have to slightly modify your existing hanger since the Walbro pump is slightly longer than the OE.
I had to remove the pulse regulator from mine with no ill effects.
If you are planning on performance upgrades in the future an OE replacement is not a good idea.
If you buy a Walbro buy from a reputable vendor, there are Chinese knockoffs being sold.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Follow the directions I posted above and you will not have to check pressure in front of the filter.
As far as the pump, it depends, you can buy the entire hanger assembly or just the pump.
If you use a Walbro it is just the pump and you may have to slightly modify your existing hanger since the Walbro pump is slightly longer than the OE.
I had to remove the pulse regulator from mine with no ill effects.
If you are planning on performance upgrades in the future an OE replacement is not a good idea.
If you buy a Walbro buy from a reputable vendor, there are Chinese knockoffs being sold.
Oh shoot didn't see that you said to temporarily bypass the filter. My bad! Its in the 70s mostly this week, but daylight savings time is killing me so I'll try to get this done wednesday when I'm not working. My concern is pushing junk from the tank as the gas is old and the car did sit for a few years. I did buy a kit to make cleaning injectors easier so I suppose the concern isn't too great. I just can't really drop a gas tank in my driveway . . .damned HOAs. The tank is at 1/4 or less so maybe I can get away with mixing premium in with it once the car is safe to drive and taking it easy during the first tank. Either that or just use the oem pump to drain as much old gas out as possible.

I planned on buying a Walbro from FWDPerformance for that reason.

Will report my findings when I can :)
 

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If the fuel is that old it needs to be drained and new fuel added.
Fuel that old will create driveabilty issues on its own.

You are not going to actually run the engine, you will actuate the ASD Relay with the Key On/Engine Off to read static pressure, you will know right away if pressure increased.
 

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I tried.

Thanks
Randy
Randy was a nice guy and was helping me with my head gasket issues, we spoke on the phone and then when I had further questions and posted on the forum he felt the need to drop his snide comment and would no longer reply. I dont know about you but that is not the type of help I need. The guy is very knowledgeable but make sure you remember and follow all of his advice to a T or else he will refuse to help and possibly even belittle you. There are plenty others here that are happy to offer there advice with no strings attached. Wish you all the best with your boost problems!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
If the fuel is that old it needs to be drained and new fuel added.
Fuel that old will create driveabilty issues on its own.

You are not going to actually run the engine, you will actuate the ASD Relay with the Key On/Engine Off to read static pressure, you will know right away if pressure increased.
Same issue with the fuel filter bypassed, unfortunately.

Gonna abuse the old pump to drain the tank, verify no restrictions between tank and rail, and then install a new pump and filter. The pump was only recently ordered so it may be a week or two before I can realistically install it.

272516



Randy was a nice guy and was helping me with my head gasket issues, we spoke on the phone and then when I had further questions and posted on the forum he felt the need to drop his snide comment and would no longer reply. I dont know about you but that is not the type of help I need. The guy is very knowledgeable but make sure you remember and follow all of his advice to a T or else he will refuse to help and possibly even belittle you. There are plenty others here that are happy to offer there advice with no strings attached. Wish you all the best with your boost problems!
No worries. I think some of these guys have been doing this for so long that they don't remember what its like to be new to something. I enjoy helping people when I have the knowledge, its just unfortunate that I'm on the receiving end of the knowledge when it comes to these cars. I'm very thankful for all that I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I was hoping to drop a success update, but I need a new filler neck grommet before I put everything back together so I'll just post a progress update instead. I got the walbro snipped into the hanger assembly. The fuel hose in the middle attaching the pump to the upper portion was melting :eek:. Maybe someone used the wrong type of hose at some point? Anyways - new pump, new sock, new hose.

I also installed new FI hose on all of the lines at the rear of the car and where the filter is located. I got a migraine yesterday while working on it so I spent the evening feeling like death and puking my guts up.

Now I'm just waiting for the filler neck grommet to arrive, supposedly at 6pm today. I probably can't install it today. I found out work is shutting down again starting tomorrow so I'll have some free time in the future. All I have to do is install the grommet + filter + fuel tank then add more gas! Sucks being so close but so far.


272688
272689
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Great news!

I reinstalled the tank. The car fired right up and drives really well. . . its SUPER zippy. My daily lebaron TII is a bit of a dog taking off. Makes me feel like something is wrong with it, lol.

Anyways - I can't really get into the gas because of the overboost issue, but I'm going to try connecting the wastegate directly to manifold vacuum like Randy said. I'm being furloughed from work again due to covid :( so I'll have some time to play around with it. I'll try to draw up a diagram as the car has already been converted to a vacuum block.

Thanks again. I'll post an update soon :)
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
I connected the wastegate actuator directly to the vacuum block in the car and now it boosts up to "5" psi. I assume these factory gauges are just slightly inaccurate?

Also the car has fault codes:

42 (From bridging the asd relay)

15 - speed/distance sensor - There seem to be no ill effects, but I only drove the car for ~10 minutes tops. Its not insured and doesn't have much fuel in it yet.
 

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It appears you have a vacuum/electrical issue with the Wastegate Solenoid.
The Code 15 will generally cause a stalling problem on decel.
Is your speedometer inop?

What year/engine in the LeBaron?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
It appears you have a vacuum/electrical issue with the Wastegate Solenoid.
The Code 15 will generally cause a stalling problem on decel.
Is your speedometer inop?

What year/engine in the LeBaron?
The car has not stalled even once. The Speedo also works. It does bounce up and down a tiny bit, but nothing too crazy. It seems accurate, but I haven't compared to GPS to make sure.

The LeBaron is a 1989 2.2L TII

Now you're making progress!!

Thanks
Randy
Yep! After spending time on the car(s) I keep going back and reading your post and more and more is starting to click. Now I have an excess of time . . .at least temporarily, so hopefully more progress is in the works :)
 

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I do not think you are having an issue with the Wastegate Solenoid since no codes are stored, verify vacuum to the solenoid and proper vacuum line routing.
I can get you more info on Monday if you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I do not think you are having an issue with the Wastegate Solenoid since no codes are stored, verify vacuum to the solenoid and proper vaccine line routing.
I can get you more info on Monday if you need it.
Ok sounds good! I'll try to gather some information perhaps tomorrow during the day time. Thanks!
 
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