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sooo i wrapped this up today. I havent seen a pic posted of how it alters the timing on the crank sprocket though. I took a crappy pic with my phone to show what it looks like. The big shiny mark to the left of the mark on the crank sprocket is the mark for tdc

 
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Discussion Starter #64
can anyone make out the picture?
Kinda,it looks like the cam timing will be retarded which will not help on low end power at all. Everyone I have done it puts the crank right at TDC. Is that pic with the cams pinned? TIIIs never had a make on the front cover is that mark maybe not right on?
 

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Kinda,it looks like the cam timing will be retarded which will not help on low end power at all. Everyone I have done it puts the crank right at TDC. Is that pic with the cams pinned? TIIIs never had a make on the front cover is that mark maybe not right on?
yes the cams were pinned. I made the mark on the cover while the motor was apart with the number one at TDC. When I put the belt on with the idler in the stock location originally everything lined up after multiple revolutions.

It looks tike its a half tooth off, but i dont see a way to regain that half tooth. Maybe if I go a tooth in the the counter clockwise direction it will fix it? i really have no idea right now:bang head
 

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Then you will only be a half tooth advanced. When the belt stretches then you'll be golden!
 

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so advanced is counter clockwise and retarded is clockwise?

but in all the belts jackson has done why did mine not line up? because I used a new belt? im sure hes used a new one during one of his installs.
 

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Retarded at the crank = advanced at the cams. The cams would be ahead of the crank timing.
 

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ok never had to deal with anything like this before. im going to have to play with this. Would the belt really stretch THAT much?
 
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Discussion Starter #71
Retarded at the crank = advanced at the cams. The cams would be ahead of the crank timing.
Correct,but in the pic dont it look like the crank is advanced? That would make the cams retarded at hurt low end power which is bad for a street driven TIII car. Unless im looking at it wrong....
well it looks like I was a full tooth off. pretty sure I solved it
That would explain alot. When I do belts on these(new or used) I put it so it looks about a tooth retarded at the crank and pull all the slack out of the front by pulling the whench on the crank bolt down and that usually puts it right on. You want no slack in front run and all on the back so timing is right on and take the slack in the back up with the tensioner. Hope that sounds understandable.......
 

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You are correct, I was just commenting on what direction the crank moves relative to the cams & not the picture. In the picture he would be advanced crank = retarded cams.
 

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That would explain alot. When I do belts on these(new or used) I put it so it looks about a tooth retarded at the crank and pull all the slack out of the front by pulling the whench on the crank bolt down and that usually puts it right on. You want no slack in front run and all on the back so timing is right on and take the slack in the back up with the tensioner. Hope that sounds understandable.......
thats exactly what I did. I had all of the pulley on except for the tensioner when i put the belt on. The tensioner was the last to go on and it takes up the slack and rotates the crank to tdc
 

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Just thought I'd chime in and say thanks for the great mod! :thumb: My friend and I are putting his rebuild together after 4 years of setting. (91 Spirit R/T) I was doing some looking on here and found this so we decided to do it. That hole location is somewhat critical because we almost couldn't get the belt back on. We might of needed to move it inward a 1/16" or so to get it right but it will still work. What are you guys running for belt tension?
 

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i set mine at 95 considering that the manual says 110. but with this routing jackson says 85. i figured 95 is in the middle. when I retension after a little while (if the thing runs) ill see where its at then and maybe ill go lower

also, its funny how much the tension on the belt increases when the rockers are tightened back down. Makes me glad i didnt set it to 110
 

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In my opinion, you're a bit better off to keep it on the tight side.

The tension increased so much because of the force of the valve springs, which means it got looser somewhere else. The overall tension didn't change.

I'm too lazy to go through the older posts, but hopefully the procedure performed involved spinning the engine several revolutions so the belt finds its happy place and the belt tension re-checked again with the rockers loose.
 
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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
i set mine at 95 considering that the manual says 110. but with this routing jackson says 85. i figured 95 is in the middle. when I retension after a little while (if the thing runs) ill see where its at then and maybe ill go lower

also, its funny how much the tension on the belt increases when the rockers are tightened back down. Makes me glad i didnt set it to 110
The manual says 110 and thats what I lived by for a year or so until I rebuilt one of these motors and it had to come apart after about 500 miles and the I-shaft bearings were already staring to wear. So I put some new bearings in it again and went right in the center of factory spec (95lbs) and pulled the I-shaft back out after another 500ish miles and the bearing looked un-used. I have been going with the 95 for a few years now and set ALOT of motors at that with no problems ever. Now since I did the idler in the front trick 95 almost sounded too tight when running. So I have been using 85lbs with that setup and that has been working great with ZERO issues after many many miles.

But for those of you with the stock belt routing I would still stay with the 95lbs.

Now when the rockers are tight and its "up on a lobe" and you set the tension to 95 with them off it could be upwards of 120-130. This is one of the biggest mistakes people make when checking tension on these. They set it at 95 with the rockers on and on a lobe and the actual tension is like 40:eek: Then not many miles later you could have an I-shaft with no teeth left on it! With rockers tight I religiously say to pull the cams toward each other to get all the slack where the gauge is!!!
 

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lotashelbys said:
Now when the rockers are tight and its "up on a lobe" and you set the tension to 95 with them off it could be upwards of 120-130. This is one of the biggest mistakes people make when checking tension on these. They set it at 95 with the rockers on and on a lobe and the actual tension is like 40:eek: Then not many miles later you could have an I-shaft with no teeth left on it! With rockers tight I religiously say to pull the cams toward each other to get all tension where the gauge is!!!
Actually, it's to get all the SLACK where the gauge is, but yah, mr. perfection I am.
 
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