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1985 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My next journey is the disassembly of the dash, and once I again I’m gonna ask y’all. 85 G-Body Daytona TZ. Anyone have documentation on disassembly? I’ve heard it’s not that horrible, but I’ve gotta replace the heater core and some small stuff. Any other suggestions while it’s apart? Anything helps, thank you.
 

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Be careful with the stupid little L shaped drain for the heater box. (I'm assuming L-bodies have them the K-based cars do.) It's a pain to get it all lined up right without knocking it out onto the driveway trying to get it through it's little hole. That and use dielectric grease on the connections to avoid corrosion...
 

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You take the dash out as an assembly. Wiring and all. Then you have the HVAC box all exposed. On the L-bodies I take the radio out because of the ground wire and antenna attached to the back of the radio. I also take the HVAC controller out because of the cable(s) running to the HVAC box. Drop the steering wheel rest it on the front seat, and disconnect wiring coming from the steering column. Unbolt the fuseblock from the sheetmetal, and disconnect the bulkhead connector. I also take out the instrument cluster because on the earlier cars and the L-bodies the speedo is a mechanical cable attached to the back of the cluster. Then unbolt the dash.
Best to replace all the failed foam on the top of the HVAC where it draws it's fresh air from cowl area. It will be all disintegrated, guaranteed. Clean out HVAC box when you have it all apart. Replace blower motor if it is making funny noises at low speed.
 

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1985 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You take the dash out as an assembly. Wiring and all. Then you have the HVAC box all exposed. On the L-bodies I take the radio out because of the ground wire and antenna attached to the back of the radio. I also take the HVAC controller out because of the cable(s) running to the HVAC box. Drop the steering wheel rest it on the front seat, and disconnect wiring coming from the steering column. Unbolt the fuseblock from the sheetmetal, and disconnect the bulkhead connector. Then unbolt the dash.
Best to replace all the failed foam on the top of the HVAC where it draws it's fresh air from cowl area. It will be all disintegrated, guaranteed. Clean out HVAC box when you have it all apart. Replace blower motor if it is making funny noises at low speed.
Appreciated. I’ll use that.
 

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1985 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You take the dash out as an assembly. Wiring and all. Then you have the HVAC box all exposed. On the L-bodies I take the radio out because of the ground wire and antenna attached to the back of the radio. I also take the HVAC controller out because of the cable(s) running to the HVAC box. Drop the steering wheel rest it on the front seat, and disconnect wiring coming from the steering column. Unbolt the fuseblock from the sheetmetal, and disconnect the bulkhead connector. Then unbolt the dash.
Best to replace all the failed foam on the top of the HVAC where it draws it's fresh air from cowl area. It will be all disintegrated, guaranteed. Clean out HVAC box when you have it all apart. Replace blower motor if it is making funny noises at low speed.
Hey there, so I got out the 4 bolts on the top of the dash, and the two holding it in on the bottom to the right and left. Steering wheel is hanging, and the HVAC controller is unhooked as well as with the radio. Is there anything else I’d be missing? It’s giving me guff coming out.
 

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Not 100% sure of the g-bodies but on the L-bodies there is a nut and a stud holding the dash on the bottom just to the passenger side of center. IIRC, it attaches to the HVAC assembly. The two bolts on the left and right should be sort of pivot points. You just have to loosen them and not remove them. If you have all the bolts out, the dash will pull away from the windshield and pivot on these two bolts. It's okay to leave them out, but upon reinstall, it will help you install the dash without having to hold in in place while you attach fasteners at the base of windshield. You can also remove the glove box door and liner with just a few screws. That may give you a better view of any fasteners still attached.
 

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1985 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Appreciated to everyone, got it off and got the HVAC box out. Motor is junk, fan is junk. Caked with mouse piss and crap. Absolutely disgusting. Really glad we decided to open it up. I had the dash out, but what was holding it in place was the center console! A few bolts and it was out. Sadly, one of the top ones broke, so we’ll fix that too.
4 at the top, then the two bottom right and left.
Unfortunately a few pieces broke on the HVAC box, not much we could’ve completely done. Too destroyed in the first place to really do much about.

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To be completely honest, it really wasn’t that bad. Waiting on some rock auto stuff, then it’ll go back together. I think taking out the HVAC box made it a lot easier to access the Heater Core. The challenge getting it out would be probably unbolting from the firewall in the engine bay, but we have the engine out while waiting on the new turbo anyways.
 

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Glad you got it out. Do it right the first time, so you don't have to do it again. An old saying comes to mind, never enough time to to do right the first time, but always enough time to do it over. Fortunately, I learned that early in my life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I may need some help from you guys. The HVAC is apart, but I need a new wheel.
Automotive tire Rim Gas Automotive wheel system Auto part

the one on the top was ordered from rock auto, and all the specifications were put in correctly- we can’t use it. The original is cracked. Does it need to be from a non-AC car? Where’s the best place to get one? Can I get it out of a later Aries K-car? Can I get it out of a Horizon or Caravan? Asking because those exist at a junk yard near me. Thank you.
 

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Which one did you order the Four Seasons one or the VDO/Continental one? Did you check a 1984 and 1986 on RA for different part #? You can see if the part #'s change or stay the same on RA website for the Omni or Caravan. Sort of weird that it would be a metal squirrel cage...
You could also look at Chrysler parts books to see what the Mopar part # is and then do a google search on that part #.
I looked it up for you. The Omni and Daytona AC blower wheel is the same. #5210234. The Non AC cars used a different blower wheel. Non AC (heater) blower wheel is 3847687. They list a different part # for the Non AC heater blower wheel for an Omni 5210001. These are for 1985's.
Here is one place that has NOS ones for sale. You might find cheaper if you shop around a bit.
Here is a cheaper one.
 

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1985 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Which one did you order the Four Seasons one or the VDO/Continental one? Did you check a 1984 and 1986 on RA for different part #? You can see if the part #'s change or stay the same on RA website for the Omni or Caravan. Sort of weird that it would be a metal squirrel cage...
You could also look at Chrysler parts books to see what the Mopar part # is and then do a google search on that part #.
I looked it up for you. The Omni and Daytona AC blower wheel is the same. #5210234. The Non AC cars used a different blower wheel. Non AC (heater) blower wheel is 3847687. They list a different part # for the Non AC heater blower wheel for an Omni 5210001. These are for 1985's.
Here is one place that has NOS ones for sale. You might find cheaper if you shop around a bit.
Here is a cheaper one.
Those look similar. I'm not the one who ordered it, so I'm not too sure. Its metal. The part number for the one out of the 85 is 3847 687. I have an extra 88 car we may scrap soon and it has a very similar HVAC setup. The wheel's number is slightly different but I'm not sure how different. 3849 414 - 88 Daytona
 
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