Hey, I definitely would like some port work done on a 3.3L. I am swapping one into a Daytona as well. Glad to see people are starting to realise that swapping one of these torquey work horses into something like a Daytona is a great reliable/affordable way to get turbo-like power without the hassles. What stages do you have to offer for a 3.3/3.8? Can you port match an intake plenum as well? I'd definitely be willing to pay a reputable person like you to port my 3.3 heads, you do excellent work on the 3.0 stuff. Thanks in advance.Having done similar type swaps before, I would recommend separating the engine and body wiring some. Only cut and splice the engine specific wires on the Daytona. I usually do this by back tracing the engine specific connectors and cutting them out. I would stagger the cuts so that the splices will happen over a wider area to avoid excessive bulging of the wiring harness.
Going by colors will get you 90-95% of the way there. The wiring diagrams are helpful for the remainder.
How are you going to do the splicing? Soldering and heat shrink tubing is "best". Do NOT get Harbor Freight heat shrink tubing the stuff gets BRITTLE once it is shrunk. Lowe's and SummitRacing.com sell better stuff.
Another option would be crimp on connectors with heat shrink plastic over them. (ie. "Marine" grade crimp-on butt connectors.) The two issues with this are price and bulky. But they are quick and seal against water well. Around here, Lowe's and Menard's sell them.
I know the fate saying 'it is time' feeling. My '87 Shadow (2.5 turbo) had a catastrophic failure. So I took the opportunity to drop a 3.0L V6 in and have been smiling ever since!
If you want some porting done on the 3.3L heads, let me know.
Ed Kelly - Kelly-Mulhern Performance
One guy has gone as far as swapping the new style 3.8 (ignore the 3.3 badging he could not find a 3.8 badged plenum) into a Dynasty. I am going to do the same for my Dynasty soon. My Daytona might stay 3.3 but will eventually upgrade to the newer heads/intake. Right now I am looking into getting some porting by Ed.no body swapping the Imperial 3.8 into a Tona yet?
As far as wiring swap EVERYTHING under the hood of the van. It all has to go. The only thing you could leave out is ABS but that could cause more troubles in the computer.
Yeah I totally forgot your Daytona is newer than mine so the donor harness you are using from your 91 Caravan should work fine. The reason I used a 1990 Caravan harness is due to the fact mine is a 1988 Daytona and the 1990 Caravan is the last year they used the 1980's style bulkheads. Since your car is not OBDII (or OBDI for that matter) you do not even need the charcoal canister hooked up. If you do want it hooked up though the Daytona one should work fine.Looks good so far...will be taking 2.5 out of Tona today...gotta go to the scrap yard and look for MAP sensor...we broke off the one on the 3.3 pulling it out...ooops. So you don't think my 1991 caravan harness will work easy it doesn't have abs?
+1 good to see others are attempting this swap let alone in my favourite Mini-Mopar a Daytona. :thumb:Looks like SOHCSports is doing the same swap as my son and I by time we are both done we should have a great tutorial to work on.
+1 the a604 is a really good trans. Don't let the horror stories fool you, most idiots who had a604 cars never ran the correct fluid in it (Ran Dexron II, even after Chrysler corrected the user manuals to say "use ATF+4") which resulted in a short life. Run Chrysler ATF+4 only (a trans fluid that is so good even other companies base their fluids off of it) and it will be fine. Running "in house" variants of ATF+4 (such as store brand, Valvoline, etc.) is good too. Just make sure it says "Chrysler ATF+4 compatible". I am thinking about trying the Royale Purple Chrysler ATF+4 myself. This trans also just seems to be geared awesome, it seems to shift better than auto transmissions from other auto makers. The gear spread is just perfect. There is also a huge after market for the a604 if you find out you want to build something stronger.I wouldn't hook up the EGR system. Just what is needed to make it run right. A 3.3 Daytona with the better 4 speed trans gearing should be a fun right that's dependable
Yes lets definitely see some pics. Making pretty nice progress, even beating me hehe. :thumb: What did you use for your front and passenger side motor mounts?To The Pope and SOHCSports
Took your advice put the motor and trans from bottom worked perfect...have to modify subframe rail a bit (dent it in) to clear power steering pump...got the wiring all sorted out, got rid of EGR stuff as you suggested...now we just have to solder up 20 wires cross our fingers and she should go. Most of the wiring colours and gauge match up there are data wires what ever they are for but we are hooking them up. What we did was remove all the wires that pertained to the motor from the Daytona harness and then removed all the Body wires from the Caravan harness and what we ended up with was the same wires left to graph into the Daytona harness...and they were all exactly the same colour and gauge and did the same things...too kewl...and once again Thanks for your advice it has been extremely helpful...pics coming and maybe even a YouTube vid.