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who is this someone?, I'd like to see a picture of this modification. I've got a 2.2 block attached to a trans out of a 99 caravan and I don't see how someone could cut apart the block and reweld to put the starter on... without disturbing the structural integrity of the block.
 

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who is this someone?, I'd like to see a picture of this modification. I've got a 2.2 block attached to a trans out of a 99 caravan and I don't see how someone could cut apart the block and reweld to put the starter on... without disturbing the structural integrity of the block.
You'd have to do a search, too many threads over too many years.

As far as welding cast iron you heat it up till red them weld it. I've had a lot of exhaust manifolds done over the years and some block repair. It was thought that the Neon 3 speed was a lot stronger than a 2.2 3 speed and the guy cut the block and did it. I should have saved the picture I have a lot over time that i've saved. I think now he used the 2.4 arm off a 2.4 block and welded it to the 2.2 block. The 2.2 piece would be too short.

I would think from your posts that you would know that people weld cast iron all the time? This instance the guy did a lot of grinding to the block to clean it up. There also isn't much strength there at all BTW. The real leverage on the block are the 3 main bolts on top and back of the engine anyway. If there was a ton of force on the front arm it'd snap off as long as it is.
 

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why would I have to search. You offered this as being done can't you help out finding this information.


sure seems a waste of effort and time. Yes, I'm a certified welder and I can weld cast but to do what you are saying would require a lot of work, you'd need to tear the block down bare, then after doing all the welding, you'd need to confirm that the crank bore and cylinder didn't distort. But you just don't grab the torch and start heating. additionally, this "arm" is crucial to centering the trans to the block that's where the dowel pin is. if one is off, other problems will arise in the flex plate or clutch (depending what trans). I sure don't see any difference in strength between a neon trans and any other 31TH trans especially to justify this effort.
 

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I remembered the amount of work the guy did to have a front starter, at that point it isn't worth the effort like you said.

As far as people not using the front ear, many 2.4 people are running them without out it with a 2.2 trans. It isn't "the best" but it is working fine. In the case of a SRT oil pan you can run the lower brace as well and the one missing ear hasn't been a problem for anyone. In the long run I can see this waring out pilot bearings in transmissions faster. But most are doing this for fun. Race cars and so on, not 400,000 mile daily drivers....
 

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Only dakota's have a pilot bearing for the trans. I'd be very nervous having 30# of mass spinning at 7000 rpm not on true center more than driving at normal highway cruising speed.
the bearing in the trans is also called a pilot shaft bearing.

And normally the trans has slop stock in a FWD trans. Which isn't too nice. But the slop is more than the miss alignment of a 2.4 on a 2.2 trans. I have had old trans cause vibration as there out of wack, but still farther than missing the one bolt
 

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I looked at the 3.3l intrepid intake for the project that i have in mind, and I think it would be great if the elbow that it has got straightened out... the later model long runner intakes look cool too but as far as being compact, the intrepid one looks the best, and if there were any boost added later it would be awesome for a turbo setup... too bad that double t/b manifold form the 3.5l couldn't just bolt on.. but then again, it may not be too difficult to have some one make it able to bolt on... still haven't found a decent p-body for the 3.8l swap or an engine/trans yet...

Also GREAT job on the swap, it just blew me away as too how fast you were able to get it done and how smooth it really was to get it all to work.

-Dustin
 

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new swap speed leaders lol. That and other than wiring not too tough. People adding turbos and other crap get deep into a swap. A 3.3 NA swap is a nice clean run. There are a bunch of late P bodys out there though, just a little time
 

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Yeah, as far as just swapping in a 3.3/3.8 i know it should be pretty straight forward, its just that I don't really wanna cannibalize a good running p-body or just buy a clunker that has chassis problems, electrical gremlins and any other thing that would cheapen a good engine swap.... If i could just find a p-body in good shape with all the electrical in tact that happens to be missing then engine and transmission but not the axles... I guess im asking allot... really i cant justify buying a car for $500 that isn't going to have the motor and tranny that it will probably come with and a van for $1000 for the engine harness/ecu, engine and tranny... i think im kinda rambling...
sorry...
Dustin
 

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im semi new to the forums, but im doing a 92 dodge 3.3 swap into a 89 daytona.. so far so good got the tranny overhauled and got most of the engine tore down today to see what all parts I need to overhaul it..... later plans are flashing the computer to increase the RPM limiter to 6k and take the speed limiter off :) and up the timing a little, also slap a turbo on it but thats next year with tax return money I might have some pics soon if ppl care to see.
 

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If your budget can swing it, the 2001 up heads are the best for the application. You need everything from the heads up to do it, including the pushrods. Delta cams will regrind your cam and it will really perk it up.
 

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Got it in, the engine mounts on the sides in the 89 are different from the 92 caravan.. so fabing indeed is the option.. but I will have some pics and a vid up real soon gonna be a few weeks before I can get it running but... it will be done soon
Passenger mount
drive side mount
Front mount
 

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looks a little bit to the left, how does the passenger side axle fit?
 

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yeah its not 100% in we had to fab up the driver side mount its not 100% mounted theres no front mount in yet either as the 89 mounts are different from the 90s and up daytona's. it might need to move to the left or right yet not sure.. but I will get more pics in a few days, as I work at night so I have to work on it when I get time :) atm theres a block of wood holding it up in the front cause theres no front mount on the body yet.. but it will be done soon.. and im not sure on the ecu and what we are using mostly everything is stock off the van that we used.. but all rebuild tranny and engine.
 

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and im going stock ecu... dont have the money... as money is a hard thing for me so im working with what I can.. but the next big thing will be sending the computer out and flashing it to what I want. Also there is no axles in atm, really nothing at all is hooked to the engine at the point of them pics.. so that wont really happen till thursday when I have the day off I plan on spending all day getting it at least mounted in fully.. just a little concerned if the daytona mounts will hold up the weight difference as the passenger one is, its fully done just gotta fab the driver side and front mount.. As far as all the extra things I wanna do that will have to wait till way later down the road when I have more money. but just a brand new 3.3 in a tona body stock should run damn good.
 
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