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It doesn’t show any codes, only 55 which means end of codes I’m pretty sure.My first question would be...
Are there any fault codes set in memory?
As stated in the first post there are numerous things that can create the issue you are experiencing.
Check the fault codes and we will go from there.
OBD1 Codes Retrieval-Chrysler 1983-1995 vehicles
OBD1 Codes Retrieval (Pre-1995 Cars and Trucks) How to get the code/s for Chrysler 1983-1995 vehicles: Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. 1. Count the number of time the MIL (check engine lamp) on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of...
Here are Chrysler's diagnostics for drivability issues without any Fault Codes except for Codes 51 (lean) or Code 52 (rich), let me/us know when you are ready to start.
View attachment 284936
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Usually ignition timing being off will not create a "bucking, breaking up" condition. If ignition timing is retarded it will create a loss of power under all load ranges, if the timing is too far advanced it may create a detonation issue in which you may/will also encounter a loss of power, if/when the engine controller see's detonation (from the Knock Sensor) it will retard ignition timing until the detonation stops, chances are you will never even hear the detonation (knocking) but it can be viewed using a scanner looking under "Knock Retard". Bucking and Breaking Up under Boost will usually be caused by... 1)Ignition System Problems a)New parts do not always equal good parts and there is more to the ignition system than hard parts, electrical needs have to be met. b)You need to simulate the load/boost condition and see if the ignition system is capable of providing the KV needed under those load conditions, this is easy to do and inexpensive. c)You need an Adjustable Spark Tester, $14.00 from AutoZone. d)Remove the spark plug wire from #1 cylinder spark plug, set the gap on the tester to 30 KV, then install the adjustable spark tester into the ignition wire, the clip on the tester needs to be grounded, I usually use a jumper wire from the clip to the - battery cable so you can attach the tester anywhere where you can see it from inside the car. View attachment 284973 e)Start the car and see if you have a good, strong spark jumping the gap.f)Reinstall the removed plug wire and repeat the procedure for the other cylinders. g)If all 4 cylinders are capable of producing 30 KV the ignition system is OK. 2)Fuel Pressure Problem a)Fuel Pressure increases 1 PSI over static rail pressure for every 1 lb. of boost. b)Static Rail Pressure (Key On/Engine Off with the ASD Relay manually actuated or with the engine running at idle and the FPR vacuum line disconnected and plugged) should be 53-57 PSI. Example; You have 55 PSI static pressure, at 7 lbs of boost fuel pressure should read 62 PSI. c)Rent a Fuel Pressure Gauge from AutoZone (it is free, leave a deposit that is fully returned when the tool is returned.) d)Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the service port on the fuel rail, start the engine, check for leaks, disconnect the vacuum line from the FPR and read "Static" rail pressure, is it between 53-57 PSI? (static rail pressure will read lower with the vacuum line connected to the FPR, that is normal and we are not concerned with that right now.) e)If static rail pressure is between 53-57 PSI, attach the fuel pressure gauge to the windshield facing you so you can see it from the passenger compartment. f)With a helper go for a ride until you encounter the bucking/breaking up condition, what is fuel pressure reading?, It should be steady and reading 1 PSI over static for every 1 lb of boost, is it?3)Overboost Shutdown a)If you experience Overboost (above 14.7 PSI on a Stock 2 Bar Setup) the engine controller will shutdown the fuel and ignition system until boost levels come down, it will continue this process if boost levels continue to rise. Overboost Shutdown is very violent and it will feel just like the symptoms you are describing. Generally a Code 45 will be stored in memory, but not always. b)If the car is not equipped with a boost gauge you will need to tee a Vacuum/Pressure gauge inline with a manifold vacuum source and tape it to the windshield as you did with the fuel pressure gauge, you can do both together. c)You will need a Vacuum/Pressure gauge that reads up to 15 PSI.
Checking Fuel Pressure 84-93 Turbo
*The wiring may be different at the pump and the ASD Relay will be different year to year(84,85-87,88-90,91-up) but the test is basically the same. *MPFI (multi-port fuel injection) works on pressure differential across the injectors. *Since the injectors are exposed to manifold vacuum total...You will also need a "Handheld Vacuum Pump" which can be rented at AutoZone for free. View attachment 284974 View attachment 284975 Checking/Setting Ignition Timing View attachment 284971 1)Remove the airbox so you have access to the timing window on the bell housing. View attachment 284972 2)Start the engine and allow to warm to normal operating temp 3)With the engine running disconnect the Coolant Temp Sensor connector. The Power Loss/Check Engine Lamp will illuminate and the Cooling Fan will cycle on, this indicates that the system is in "Failure/Limp In" mode and ignition timing is at "Base". Pic of the CTS, (Disregard the Multimeter) View attachment 284976 4)With the timing light connected to #1 cylinder and the battery shine the timing light at the timing window on the bell housing, the mark on the flywheel should be at 12 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). View attachment 284977 View attachment 284978 5)If it is not, loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn the distributor clockwise to retard the timing or counter clockwise to advance the timing. View attachment 284979 6)Once you are set to 12 degrees BTDC tighten the distributor hold down bolt, verify you are still at 12 degrees BTDC. 7)Shut the engine off, reconnect the CTS connector and reattach the airbox. Note: A Code 22 will be stored in memory, it does not indicate a problem and it will go away after 50 key starts or with battery disconnect.Actron Vacuum And Pressure Tester, 2-1/2" Face CP7802 | Zoro
Order Actron Vacuum And Pressure Tester, 2-1/2" Face, CP7802 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
Awesome, thanks for all the information. This is stated perfectly and explains it way better that other places I’ve tried to read on how to do it. I will try and get a fuel pressure gauge and vacuum pump this week maybe.Usually ignition timing being off will not create a "bucking, breaking up" condition. If ignition timing is retarded it will create a loss of power under all load ranges, if the timing is too far advanced it may create a detonation issue in which you may/will also encounter a loss of power, if/when the engine controller see's detonation (from the Knock Sensor) it will retard ignition timing until the detonation stops, chances are you will never even hear the detonation (knocking) but it can be viewed using a scanner looking under "Knock Retard". Bucking and Breaking Up under Boost will usually be caused by... 1)Ignition System Problems a)New parts do not always equal good parts and there is more to the ignition system than hard parts, electrical needs have to be met. b)You need to simulate the load/boost condition and see if the ignition system is capable of providing the KV needed under those load conditions, this is easy to do and inexpensive. c)You need an Adjustable Spark Tester, $14.00 from AutoZone. d)Remove the spark plug wire from #1 cylinder spark plug, set the gap on the tester to 30 KV, then install the adjustable spark tester into the ignition wire, the clip on the tester needs to be grounded, I usually use a jumper wire from the clip to the - battery cable so you can attach the tester anywhere where you can see it from inside the car. View attachment 284973 e)Start the car and see if you have a good, strong spark jumping the gap.f)Reinstall the removed plug wire and repeat the procedure for the other cylinders. g)If all 4 cylinders are capable of producing 30 KV the ignition system is OK. 2)Fuel Pressure Problem a)Fuel Pressure increases 1 PSI over static rail pressure for every 1 lb. of boost. b)Static Rail Pressure (Key On/Engine Off with the ASD Relay manually actuated or with the engine running at idle and the FPR vacuum line disconnected and plugged) should be 53-57 PSI. Example; You have 55 PSI static pressure, at 7 lbs of boost fuel pressure should read 62 PSI. c)Rent a Fuel Pressure Gauge from AutoZone (it is free, leave a deposit that is fully returned when the tool is returned.) d)Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the service port on the fuel rail, start the engine, check for leaks, disconnect the vacuum line from the FPR and read "Static" rail pressure, is it between 53-57 PSI? (static rail pressure will read lower with the vacuum line connected to the FPR, that is normal and we are not concerned with that right now.) e)If static rail pressure is between 53-57 PSI, attach the fuel pressure gauge to the windshield facing you so you can see it from the passenger compartment. f)With a helper go for a ride until you encounter the bucking/breaking up condition, what is fuel pressure reading?, It should be steady and reading 1 PSI over static for every 1 lb of boost, is it?3)Overboost Shutdown a)If you experience Overboost (above 14.7 PSI on a Stock 2 Bar Setup) the engine controller will shutdown the fuel and ignition system until boost levels come down, it will continue this process if boost levels continue to rise. Overboost Shutdown is very violent and it will feel just like the symptoms you are describing. Generally a Code 45 will be stored in memory, but not always. b)If the car is not equipped with a boost gauge you will need to tee a Vacuum/Pressure gauge inline with a manifold vacuum source and tape it to the windshield as you did with the fuel pressure gauge, you can do both together. c)You will need a Vacuum/Pressure gauge that reads up to 15 PSI.Checking Fuel Pressure 84-93 Turbo
*The wiring may be different at the pump and the ASD Relay will be different year to year(84,85-87,88-90,91-up) but the test is basically the same. *MPFI (multi-port fuel injection) works on pressure differential across the injectors. *Since the injectors are exposed to manifold vacuum total...You will also need a "Handheld Vacuum Pump" which can be rented at AutoZone for free. View attachment 284974 View attachment 284975 Checking/Setting Ignition Timing View attachment 284971 1)Remove the airbox so you have access to the timing window on the bell housing. View attachment 284972 2)Start the engine and allow to warm to normal operating temp 3)With the engine running disconnect the Coolant Temp Sensor connector. The Power Loss/Check Engine Lamp will illuminate and the Cooling Fan will cycle on, this indicates that the system is in "Failure/Limp In" mode and ignition timing is at "Base". Pic of the CTS, (Disregard the Multimeter) View attachment 284976 4)With the timing light connected to #1 cylinder and the battery shine the timing light at the timing window on the bell housing, the mark on the flywheel should be at 12 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). View attachment 284977 View attachment 284978 5)If it is not, loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn the distributor clockwise to retard the timing or counter clockwise to advance the timing. View attachment 284979 6)Once you are set to 12 degrees BTDC tighten the distributor hold down bolt, verify you are still at 12 degrees BTDC. 7)Shut the engine off, reconnect the CTS connector and reattach the airbox. Note: A Code 22 will be stored in memory, it does not indicate a problem and it will go away after 50 key starts or with battery disconnect.Actron Vacuum And Pressure Tester, 2-1/2" Face CP7802 | Zoro
Order Actron Vacuum And Pressure Tester, 2-1/2" Face, CP7802 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
You made sure to unplug the cooling temp sensor when you set the timing right?
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Yes I am still having the cutting issue, I have yet to get the fuel pressure gauge or a voltmeter. I am a broke 18yr old trying to juggle school and work haha. I did not have any code stored before I unplugged the sensor, also thank you for the fyi about the sensor if I need to buy one. I am on spring break now so I’ll see if I can pick up the meter and fuel pressure gauge.Do you still have the "cutting/breaking up" condition?
Have you performed any of the diagnostics posted in Post 8?
You will currently have a Code 24 stored in memory since you disconnected the TPS with the engine running, when you did this the car went into "failure", aka. "limp in mode" which is a fixed program.
Was there a TPS Code 24 set in memory when the problem occurred, before you disconnected the TPS?
Clear the codes (battery disconnect), be sure they cleared before cranking the engine, if they cleared, start the car, if/when the problem happens, Do Not disconnect anything...Did the CEL illuminate?, Were any fault codes stored?
Assuming this is a Turbo II and not a Turbo I...
TPS is easy to test.
1)There are 3 wires...
a)OR/WT - 5 Volt Reference
b)OR/DB - Signal Line
c)BK/LB - Signal Return
View attachment 285069
2)With the KOEO, using a digital voltmeter backprobe the 5 volt reference line and the Signal Return Line.
a)Example of backprobing a connector, you can use paper clips, do not allow the clips or voltmeter leads to touch each other or your readings will be incorrect and/or you will short the 5 volt reference line, that is why actual backprobe pins are insulated.7 Function Digital Multimeter
Amazing deals on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
View attachment 285070 View attachment 285071
b)Voltage should read 4.90 - 5.00 volts, if it does, continue...
3)Move the + voltmeter lead from the 5 volt reference line to the Signal Line, leave the - lead connected to the Signal Return Line.
a)Closed throttle voltage should read between .30 volts and ,90 volts, if OK, continue...
b)While watching the voltmeter, slowly sweep the throttle open looking for and voltage spikes or voltage drop-offs, if there are any spikes or drop-offs replace the TPS.
c)With the throttle at WOT, voltage should read over 3.50 volts.
d)If those steps show the TPS is OK, remove the meter from the connector, start the car and perform a wiggle test on the TPS connector/wiring in an attempt to duplicate the issue, if the TPS checks good and the wiggle test reveals nothing, the TPS/Circuit is good.
If you need a TPS, you will not find the correct unit in the aftermarket, they may list a TPS but it will not be correct, it will bolt up but the calibration will not be correct, this is experience talking.
Rock Auto lists the TPS by crossing the Mopar # if you want to chance it.
The Mopar # is 5226924, it fits 87 T-2, 88 2.2L Turbo, 89 2.2/2.5L TurboRockAuto
RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.www.rockauto.com
Marty has them used if you need one...
I found 5226924 online at RearCounter.com
5226924 are listed here. 11 found at 1 seller. View now.
Just an FYI...
I am not trying to be mean, nasty, offensive, impolite, insensitive or crass, however...
Online diagnostics are difficult at best, we need you to help us help you, if you continue to guess or throw parts at the condition/problem we will all be "pissing in the wind" and only luck will get the problem(s) corrected.
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