Turbo Dodge Forums banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone. I am having some pretty severe problems with my 88 shelby z 2.2 turbo intercooled. The car starts up almost right away and idles a little over 1K rpms for about 5-10 seconds then drops down to 600 or so. At this time when the rpms drop the check engine light comes on. The code that comes up is 12 13 and 55. I know 12 and 55 dont mean anything and that 13 is the map sensor. I have replaced the map sensor twice now and still have both sensors. I also checked the vac lines and to my knowledge i cannot find a leak. Ok now for the really bad part. The car will drive in first gear but its like driving a tractor. It has absolutely no power whatsoever although i can hear the turbo spooling or atleast beginning to. The cat is not plugged. I cannot rev the car with the clutch in without it bogging and the rpms wont go over 3000 rpms. Now for the list of things i have replaced. I have replaced the TPS, MAP, BARO SOLENOID, NEW TURBO, NEW CLUTCH, NEW FUEL FILTER, NEW PLUGS AND WIRES. I have checked all grounds, removed them, cleaned them and replaced them. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP THIS IS BUGGING THE CRAP OUTTA ME!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have not checked the HEP but was under the impression that the car would not start if the HEP is bad. How does one go about checking it? And how much would a new one cost?
 

·
Mr. Moderator
Joined
·
8,917 Posts
Well i had really shitty idle with a bad hep! And it owuld not rev and if I took it for a drive it would just shake and stutter etc. Take out the old hep and make sure the plastic doesn't look warped or anything. A new one costs around 100 dollars from mopar (the cheap aftermarket ones do not have very good records). But I wouldn't start throwing parts at your car. I would start by wiggle testing the map sensor wiring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The motor is already running rough. Will that test work right now with the engine already running as rough as it is?
 

·
Mr. Moderator
Joined
·
8,917 Posts
Whoa! Hold on did you double, triple, and quadrouple check your timing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have actually been trying to figure out how to do the timing check on this car as well, can anyone point me to a website or other thread that illustrates or goes into detail on the timing, it could have easily skipped a tooth somehow. the belt is tight but not overly tight
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok right on, im going to check the timing multiple times tomorrow and hopeflly that will fix it. other then timing and hep any ideas what it could be?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,731 Posts
First, Code 13 is MAP sensor pneumatic (vacuum).
Yes, this can be caused by an engine mechanical problem.
Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold source and be sure engine vacuum is reading 16-20"HG(Vacuum is measured in inches of mercury, HG) then tee the vacuum gauge inline before the baro solenoid and then between the baro and Map sensor and be sure vacuum is reading the same at all points. If engine vacuum is low at your manifold source then check for engine mechanical problems such as a timing belt that has jumped.
If vacuum is good up to the baro but low between the baro and Map be sure the vacuum lines are connected correctly to the baro solenoid and that the vent is open.
To verify cam timing bring #1 cylinder to TDC on a compression stroke (line timing mark on bellhousing with 0) and then remove the access plug in the upper timing cover and look thru. The slot in the cam sprocket should be at 12 o'clock with the center line of the cylinder head(the head is on an angle so it will not be straight up and down).



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok guys so here is the information that i just got. I tested the vac source as he stated at the Baro solenoid and came up with 6 inces of vac! So then i knew that was low and went straight to the manifold source which was also bringing up 6 inches of vac. Sounds like a problem and now im trying to figure out how i am going to get the timing back to normal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
here is the latest. I changed the cam timing so that when the mark on the flywheel shown through the bell housing is at 0, the cam hole will be at twelve o clock relative to the angle ofthe head. I got it all situated and then tried to start the car and nothing happened. It just keeps turning over and over again with no result. What could have caused this to happen?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,731 Posts
Did you get the intermidiate shaft lined up correctly(was the distributor rotor pointing at #1 cylinder?) and were you on a compression stroke at TDC?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well i believe the #1 piston was at tdc because i was told if the bellhousing markings were at 0 it should be at tdc. Now how do i go about changing the intermediate shaft so that it is at the correct place?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,731 Posts
Start by bringing #1 up to TDC as before and see if the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder on the distributor cap.
If it is off remove the timing cover(s) and align the marks as in the pic.After the belt is installed and tensioned rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions by hand(clockwise) and recheck mark alignment and tension.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
sorry for the stupid question but do you mean to check that the rotating peice the makes contact with the distributor is pointing at #1?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
alright so here is the status for the end of the night, the timing is 100% correct and now no running whatsoever.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top