[bsbllfit7]

Hello everyone. I am having some pretty severe problems with my 88 shelby z 2.2 turbo intercooled. The car starts up almost right away and idles a little over 1K rpms for about 5-10 seconds then drops down to 600 or so. At this time when the rpms drop the check engine light comes on. The code that comes up is 12 13 and 55. I know 12 and 55 dont mean anything and that 13 is the map sensor. I have replaced the map sensor twice now and still have both sensors. I also checked the vac lines and to my knowledge i cannot find a leak. Ok now for the really bad part. The car will drive in first gear but its like driving a tractor. It has absolutely no power whatsoever although i can hear the turbo spooling or atleast beginning to. The cat is not plugged. I cannot rev the car with the clutch in without it bogging and the rpms wont go over 3000 rpms. Now for the list of things i have replaced. I have replaced the TPS, MAP, BARO SOLENOID, NEW TURBO, NEW CLUTCH, NEW FUEL FILTER, NEW PLUGS AND WIRES. I have checked all grounds, removed them, cleaned them and replaced them. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP THIS IS BUGGING THE CRAP OUTTA ME!

 

[bsbllfit7]

I have not checked the HEP but was under the impression that the car would not start if the HEP is bad. How does one go about checking it? And how much would a new one cost?

 

[bsbllfit7]

What do you mean by wiggle testing the map wires?

 

[bsbllfit7]

The motor is already running rough. Will that test work right now with the engine already running as rough as it is?

 

[bsbllfit7]

I have actually been trying to figure out how to do the timing check on this car as well, can anyone point me to a website or other thread that illustrates or goes into detail on the timing, it could have easily skipped a tooth somehow. the belt is tight but not overly tight

 

[bsbllfit7]

ok right on, im going to check the timing multiple times tomorrow and hopeflly that will fix it. other then timing and hep any ideas what it could be?

 

[bsbllfit7]

ok guys so here is the information that i just got. I tested the vac source as he stated at the Baro solenoid and came up with 6 inces of vac! So then i knew that was low and went straight to the manifold source which was also bringing up 6 inches of vac. Sounds like a problem and now im trying to figure out how i am going to get the timing back to normal.

 

[bsbllfit7]

here is the latest. I changed the cam timing so that when the mark on the flywheel shown through the bell housing is at 0, the cam hole will be at twelve o clock relative to the angle ofthe head. I got it all situated and then tried to start the car and nothing happened. It just keeps turning over and over again with no result. What could have caused this to happen?

 

[bsbllfit7]

well i believe the #1 piston was at tdc because i was told if the bellhousing markings were at 0 it should be at tdc. Now how do i go about changing the intermediate shaft so that it is at the correct place?

 

[bsbllfit7]

sorry for the stupid question but do you mean to check that the rotating peice the makes contact with the distributor is pointing at #1?

 

[bsbllfit7]

alright so here is the status for the end of the night, the timing is 100% correct and now no running whatsoever.

 

[bsbllfit7]

Well i know that the car has spark i tested for it and i got many strong sparks. I also took a spark plug out and cranked the engine to see if a poof of gas would come out but nothing did. That could be my problem. I have not compression tested yet but will soon. Is there a more reliable way to test for if the engine is getting fuel?

 

[bsbllfit7]

ok i needa find someone with a fuel pressure gauge. And no no fault codes besides the ones listed at the beginning of the thread

 

[bsbllfit7]

Ok so i checked for fuel pressure between the fuel line going into the fuel rail, and the fuel rail. I got around 60 psi of pressure doing that. I then did a compression test and was hardly getting a reading at all. It read under 30 psi of pressure on cylinders 3 and 4 so i didnt even test 1 and 2. I checked timing again and again and again. Here is what the timing shows. The mark on the cam gear is straight up and down with the slight angle of the head. While the mark is lined up with the head, the notch on the flywheel that you can see via the bellhousing is at 0 meaning cylinders 1 and 4 are at tdc. Also while all this is going on the oil pump gear that can be found under the distributor is perfectly side to side. Now that also means that the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire. To my knowledge that is perfect timing. What do you guys have to say? Im thinking about pulling the head tomorrow and starting an engine rebuild.

 

[bsbllfit7]

Alright fellas i started taking the head off tonight, all i needa do now is remove the downpipe from the turbo and disconnect the oil feed and return lines. So tomorrow night ill have a report back on what the inside looks like. Perhaps ill take pictures too

 

[bsbllfit7]

ok guys i pulled the head yesterday and nothing seems to be out of place. Im going to do an engine rebuild because the engine had over 222,000 miles on it. I have a few questions though, what will be the easiest way to remove the block? I am looking at it and i see there isnt much on it besides the transmission and a couple of motor mounts. I know how to rebuild a engine and how to test for clearances and everything and have all the tools to do that. How does one go about finding out if the rods pistons and crank are all ok to use on this next motor. I want to limit my expenditure as much as possible

 

[bsbllfit7]

ya thats the plan for me. Im also going to throw the stage 2 or 3 cam package from FWDperformance into it. Idk much about changing the valves. Anyone have any insight into that? And also putting in high rpm lifters and new titanium springs. I plan on putting +40% injectors in and possibly a new fuel pump. Stage 5 calibration from FWDperformance. Now should i be able to use the same rods that are currently in there or will i need to purchase some new ones. And how do i go about finding out if i need to bore out the block.