Turbo Dodge Forums banner
1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,969 Posts
In terms of bang for the buck, Wal-mart (yeah, I know - but they're everywhere so stuff is easy to find) sells 5¼" & 5x7" 3-way Sony speakers that fit in real nice and have a nice sound range and are very affordable. The fronts are $38 and the rears are a few bucks more. Of course you need to put a good head unit in it to make it all worth it. Of course you can get better, but it will cost more most likely. I'm real fussy about radios, so I won't make a recommendation there since there are so many features you kinda need to sort out what it important to you and what is not.
 

·
Mr. Moderator
Joined
·
8,917 Posts
I went the more expensive route and I have jl audio speakers all the way around powered by a kicker 4 channel (I had it laying around). then my sub is a jl w1 10 inch with a jl 500 watt 2 channel. Head unit is an alpine. Set up sounds freaking awesome in my Blue Daytona. I have since removed the sub and put it in my other car since I am not yet finished with the blue shelby. I used kicker speakers all the way around with the tweaters in the dash. Sounds soooo good even with the tops out and the windows down. Plus any sub is going to sound awesome in a hatch back. I picked the 10 inch because I wanted sound quality over it being stupid loud and rattling the trunk loose. The 10 inch hits the lows really well and is loud enough for me to hear and no one else to be bothered
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
I went the more expensive route and I have jl audio speakers all the way around powered by a kicker 4 channel (I had it laying around). then my sub is a jl w1 10 inch with a jl 500 watt 2 channel. Head unit is an alpine. Set up sounds freaking awesome in my Blue Daytona. I have since removed the sub and put it in my other car since I am not yet finished with the blue shelby. I used kicker speakers all the way around with the tweaters in the dash. Sounds soooo good even with the tops out and the windows down. Plus any sub is going to sound awesome in a hatch back. I picked the 10 inch because I wanted sound quality over it being stupid loud and rattling the trunk loose. The 10 inch hits the lows really well and is loud enough for me to hear and no one else to be bothered
I use a 10" MTX Roadthunder free air sub I had with a 200 watt amp for my subwoofer in my Spirit. It gives me plenty of bass and don't bother ones around me. I'm sorry but I don't want to sit inside a speaker cabinet like some do :bang head
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
It all depends on what you are looking for and, what you want to spend..

1)stock replacement speakers factory deck
2) replacement speakers aftermarket deck
3) replacement speakers,deck add 2ch amp
4) replacement speakers,deck add 4ch amp
5) component speakers good deck 5ch amp 1-10"woofer simple yet effective.
6) component speakers good deck multiple amplifiers 2+woofers
7) custom installed components speakers in own little enclosures 5.1 surround
dvd etc...multiple amplifiers multiple woofers seperate crossovers and equilizers acrilic,carbon fiber,fiberglass etc..door pods,A-piller pods all custom to what you are looking for. (ieg) sq--sql---spl. or just want decent tunes on a budget

8)cheap yet jams great one decent 2ch amp say 100-200wpc rms and tri mode it to drive everything appropriatly.if so you can build a 120db+system on the low cost aspect that will please almost anyone if done correctly with appropriate,careful selection of components..it works great as well and, is reliable,+gives room for upgrades at a later point.

always try to make a goal of what you want save up and get the best components that you are willing to spend the amount on things that will never change ie how they function (1) speakers (2) amplifiers bolth
decks change due to differant formats etc.. but in the end it is all analog that is what we hear and understand..

so say average stereo shop or wal-mart 1pr 5 1/4-6"component set a 4ch amp
a 10"woofer and coaxials for rear will work great or component sets for bolth front and rear (rear no tweeter) radio shack get (2) 8 ohm non inductive resistor and,hook up to rear speakers to attenuate wire bolth front and rear together on say ch 1&2 bridge ch 3&4 to a woofer. good sound that can jam ready for upgrades at a later point..

sorry I get carried away at times :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
991 Posts
My 86 came
With a custom made box(peice of PDF) with holes for 2 12" sub to go over the spare tire hole so you could make you own but I doubt it
Sounds that good in general and I think it would sound even worse when you don't have you're spare tire and you have a flat (it popped out all of the drain plugs also
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
557 Posts
i made a custon sub box for the spare tire well on my 87 shelby z. it was awesome, had a full truck and it was super easy to make.

lined the well with tin foil then came in with fiberglass and caoted the foil. let it dry and it pop's right out. i sealed up the top with with a mdf board.... sounded great becuase the volume was almost perfect for the L5

components that get amped up are by far the best sounding.... I have polkaudio's getting 110wattsrms, i love it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,969 Posts
I will chime in with this little extra, when choosing a head unit you want to try to get the frequency range you can 20 Hz - 20KHz, go for the lowest THD possible and the highest S/N ratio. I always start with the head unit and work backwards from there. Buying pricey speakers that can handle more power than the head unit puts out is a waste of money, unless you plan on upgrading the head unit later, or adding an amp. If you plan on adding an amp pick one that will work with the amp outputs that the radio has (assuming it has outputs) either high level or low level, no sense in having to convert the signal. If you're going with a sub, I prefer one that comes with it's own tuned enclosure, something like a bazooka tube, but a box will work just as well, so long as it's tuned for the specific sub. Read up on the different types of subs, bandpass - and whatever the other one is called.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
basic box layouts 1,2,3,4,5,6 order variable by acompanied response

sealed,vented,isobarik,bandpass(sealed,vented isobarik-bandpass)freeair..
+1 on chargedust on head etc..

all depends on what sound output you want..

you can do a decent budget set up at wal-mart say the sony xplod stuff get the 4ch and the 2ch amps and the xplod woofers and a scoche box they even have the decks wiring install kits just about everything you will need to get decent sound all for around $800.00 +/- or the pioneer stuff same idea around same price..

after 15 +/- years of the stuff. audio components can be priced all the way up to the sky old timers remember old Pyle not this new stuff but the old they had a silk dome tweeter that was $400.00 EACH

EVEN NOW look at Critical mass 5.1 $300.000.00 for system crazy or what..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
I can remember when Pile was Pile Driver. Alpine and Rockford Fosgate was top of the line then. But then I can also remember when Audiovox made the indasher AM FM 8 track. :eek: I had that in my car back in high school. Been playing with car stereo a long time.

:cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
yep the old Pyle driver I still have a pair of 10" woofers the Pyle pro 2 units..how about precision power art or audio art G&S redline the original orion hcca's or hifonics series 6-7-8,how about Hollywood sound labs before they sold out all american made awesomeness!!..

Pyle at this time was ma de by in partnership with Hafler/harman..
Autotek Linear Power
How about Alpine Eseries 3545
Lanzar optidrive
old m series Phoenix gold.

all when power was real and all had gobs of current to drive almost anything..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Absolutly awesome stuff!! some small examples are current longjevity hand crafted over built... the tweeters you have probably have replacable diaphrams/ribbon material.although you probably won't be able to find them anywhere it is nice to know that they were made in that manner simular to pro audio stuff.many companies are just starting to get the concept of user repair..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
i made a custon sub box for the spare tire well on my 87 shelby z. it was awesome, had a full truck and it was super easy to make.

lined the well with tin foil then came in with fiberglass and caoted the foil. let it dry and it pop's right out. i sealed up the top with with a mdf board.... sounded great becuase the volume was almost perfect for the L5

components that get amped up are by far the best sounding.... I have polkaudio's getting 110wattsrms, i love it

easier way to do fiberglass spare tire well-
cover the area to be glassed with masking tape- preferably painters tape. from there apply a coat of paste wax to the taped area- this will keep the resin from adhering to the tape making removal easier. lay automotive carpet in the well, the cheap stuff that comes in rolls from wally world and parts stores is nice and thick but still flexible enough to conform to the shape of the well. you want to make a top plate ahead of time out of mdf with the sub hole already cut. lay that on top of the carpet you placed and trim the carpet around the top plate so you have a couple inches of overlap around the board. pull the board out, mix resin and apply liberally with a brush untill the carpet is completely saturated with resin. then while the resin is still wet, lay the board in place and carefully fold the edges up around the board, saturating the carpet with more resin and using the brush to lay the carpet against the board. take any remaining resin and coat the board. you will end up with a single piece once its cured and it will be pretty much waterproof. its a lot easier to do it that way versus making the pieces separately then trying to bond them together and still keep a good seal. the carpet will soak up the resin like a sponge and you may not even need to add any layers of fiberglass mat to the box. once it cures you may want to add a second coat of resin to the inside to increase strength and seal any leaks. just mix and dump it in there and tilt the box around till everythings coated. if you do end up with any leaks between the board and carpet mold, you can use body filler to plug the gaps from the inside.

wear gloves.
use acetone to clean up with, it disolves fiberglass resin and body filler on contact.
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top