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Discussion Starter #1
My '91 Daytona needs a new steering rack because it makes a horrible clunking noise when I turn the wheel. I have replaced the ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, and the control arm bushings within the last year, but the noise still persists and keeps getting worse. Any tips on how to swap the rack? I have heard that the k-frame needs to be dropped to take the rack out, but also that it isn't needed, only easier. Also, if the k-frame needs to come out, does the engine/trans need extra support? I will be replacing the motor mounts first, so they will be much more able to take the load. And in case I mess up the clock spring somehow, where can I get a new one? Can't find any replacements anywhere.
Thanks,
Andrew
 

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Are you sure it isn't the strut mount/bearing(s)? When these are all torn to hell they will give off some terrible noise when you turn the wheel. Easy check, have someone turn the wheels back and forth with the car in neutral/park and place you hand on top of the strut towers, you'll notice it if it's the struts.

If removing the steering rack, all you need to do is:

You can actually remove the steering rack without dropping the k-frame, but it's tricky to fish it out. Assuming you are going to drop the k-frame:

-Disconnect battery power, due to airbags
-Disconnect power steering pump, I like to remove the pump from the engine and just lay it on the rack, so I don't have to mess with the lines with the tight workspace
-Remove tie rods from knuckles
-Separate ball joints from knuckles
-Go inside the car, and drive out one of the roll pins at the universal joint near the floor, you may have to remove some plastic covering. U-joint should separate from the steering gear shaft. Nothing else done with the steering column, especially at the steering wheel
-Drop K-frame, 4x 18mm bolts. Be careful, don't use impact. If you break the front nut-tabs in the frame rails things get complicated. Use penetrating fluid.
-Rack is attached to k-frame with 4x 10mm or 11mm bolts
 

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You also need to check the brakes.
Over the years I have seen and heard noises from the brakes that sound like the car is falling apart and all it turns out to be a loose pad or faulty mounting hardware.
Verify that the anti-rattle clips/mounting hardware are all present and intact.
Be sure the caliper slides are well lubricated and the caliper moves back and forth freely.
Hate to see you replace a rack that is not needed.

If you need any more info, have any questions please feel free to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I highly doubt it would be the brakes, but I will definitely inspect them. Everything from the pads and rotors to the master cylinder and calipers was replaced about 4 years ago, and hasn't seen too much wear. Also, they make no noises of that type under any kind of braking, light or heavy. As for the suspension, I'm replacing all the springs, shocks, and struts anyways. I will definitely check the shock towers before I tear the whole front end apart.

Also, any advice on replacing motor mounts and the power steering pump? I want to have a good idea of what to do so I don't waste 3 days because I accidentally broke something important.
 

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4 years is old for brakes and depending where you live I have seen Anti-Rattle clips rust and fall of the pad in a year or two.
Just do not want you to bypass something simple because you "assume" that cannot be it.

If you are replacing engine mounts I would recommend 100% that you go with Poly or Poly Filled, aftermarket mounts are JUNK and will not last, Poly mounts will last the life of the car.

POLY MOUNTS

As far as a Power Steering Pump...
They are all remanufactured so my recommendation would be to buy locally so if there is an issue there is no shipping and waiting, be sure you get a lifetime warranty and I would also recommend replacing the hoses while you are there.
I put on a remanufactured pump and hoses from Autozone in 2014 when I was a commercial sales manager and have had absolutely no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have a friend who put poly motor mounts in his '06 Acura RSX, and while they will last forever, they create an absolutely ridiculous amount of noise and vibration. Great for track-days and racing, but not for keeping the car feeling smooth or daily driving. I'm going with standard rubber mounts, unless the poly ones you suggest keep the engine from vibrating the entire car. If they are just as smooth as normal engine mounts, I'll look into it.

But I am just looking for tips on the process of replacing the motor mounts and the power steering pump. I already have all the parts I need.
 

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I have poly mounts in my car and she is all stock and a daily driver.
There may have been a slight increase in harshness at idle but not enough that I even notice anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright, I've replaced all my suspension, and it feels incredible! So smooth, but the clunking is still present. Checked the brakes, and they're all good. So now onto the rack. How do you actually work on that stuff? Everything is so tightly crammed in. Does anyone have any advice about getting the fluid lines off and getting the pump out in the first place? I've tried for an hour almost and made no progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright, I replaced the steering rack, power steering pump, and motor mounts and the difference is incredible. The whole process wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. The new motor mounts are great, but I need to replace the old rear damper strut with the polybushings bobble strut (but $60 for it is stupid, so I don't know). The transmission side mount was completely disintegrated and half of the passenger side mount cracked in half. The engine was sagging at least an inch. The steering rack was definitely shot as well. I only got 1 1/4 turns from the center to either stop before, and now I have 1 3/4 turns. I can finally do u-turns instead of 3 point turns, but now the axles are clicking and clunking. Working on this car never ends...

The power steering pump didn't fix the moan though. It was messed up, but wasn't the source of the noise. The alternator wasn't it either. Narrowed it down to the water pump. It isn't super old, but it's had issues with noise before for some reason. But now the belt is only riding 4 of the 6 ribs on the power steering pulley. Is there any way to adjust either the power steering or alternator to line the pulleys up?
 

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You replaced the P/S pump, did you have to swap over the pulley from your old pump?
If so, did you press it on too far?
What exactly is misaligned?
The alternator has no bushings/spacers so as long as it was correct for the application there should be no issue there.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Since the alternator can't be adjusted, then the power steering pulley has to be misaligned. I had to swap the pulley over to the new pump and I pressed it on all the way. Is it not supposed to be on that far? If it needs to be pulled out some, is it possible to do that in the car? I don't have the time to pull half the stuff apart again, and the belt keeps rubbing on the shock tower whenever the engine gets loaded by starting off from a standstill
 

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According to the FSM the pulley is pressed on to the bottom of the shaft, I have always installed the pulley so the outer opening of the pulley is flush with the shaft.
Without being there and seeing the car I can only speculate that the pulley is on to far, obviously if everything was properly aligned before any work was done and now things are not properly aligned then something happened during the replacement process to cause the misalignment.

If it turns out that the pulley is on too far you can do this on the car if you have enough room to get the puller in there with the pump in the car.

You can see an exploded view of the mounting for the P/S Pump and Alternator in the Chrysler Parts Catalog.

1991 Catalog...
Alternator - Group 8 Electrical, Page 195, Figure 8-1000
P/S Pump - Group 19 Steering, Page 578, Figure 19-1500

STEERING- PS Pump 1.jpg STEERING- PS Pump 2.jpg STEERING- PS Pump 3.jpg IMG_NEW.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The only thing I can think of is to loosen the bolts on the pump and tighten them with the belt on. When I installed the new pump, I tightened them before the belt was put on, but I doubt that caused that much of an issue. I'll try that, then readjust the pulley and see what happens. It will be a couple days before I can get wrenching again, so I'll post an update in a few days or so. By the way, thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Alright, the car is completely fixed. As it turns out, the belt tensioner was throwing the belt off because the bearings were shot. The weird thing is that it was only 2 years old. The moaning sound is gone too. It was the water pump, which was only 2 years old as well. Maybe NAPA went through a phase of bad parts? No idea why it all went bad this soon, but its all good now. Thanks for the help NAJ
 

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Glad to hear all is now well.
If you encounter any other issues or need info Please feel free to ask.
 
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