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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So 1989 Plymouth Horizon 2.2 TBI Auto. Cranks but no start. Starts with starting fluid. Bad ASD relay. Small resistance across coil terminals, no click with 12V . No continuity (open circuit) across switched terminals. At fuel pump (no diagram available) harness has 3 wires: Gray wire connected to copper terminal on pump. Green /White stripe and Light Green(?)/Yellow stripe both of which connect to Aluminum connectors on pump.
I figure Gray is the power because it connects to copper. Gray to Green/White stripe is 10 ohms, probably the pump. Gray to Light Green/Yellow stripe is 400 ohms, probably the fuel sensor.
Like I said I don't have a diagram.
12V and ground applied to any of the pins on the pump by jumpers straight from a 12.6V car battery produces no reaction.
AllPar says an ASD relay can fail and internally short sending power to the fuel pump which kills it. Also, an ASD relay short can drain your battery and before sitting this car would drain the battery by the 2nd day.
Anyone has the wiring harness colors at the fuel pump connector on an 1989 Horizon???
The fuel pump is mounted through the passenger side of the fuel tank. Anyone ever just drop the emergency brake line and change the fuel pump through the side without dropping the fuel tank from the car???
 

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I don't see how a ASD relay sending power to a fuel pump will kill a fuel pump if there is fuel in the tank.

Now, if the fuel pump is ran without fuel, it will die very quickly.

Yes, L body fuel pump can be change on the side without dropping the tank. You might need to remove a bolt on the e-brake line to give you more clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Anyone have the wiring colors for the connection to the fuel pump and fuel gauge sensor at the tank? I would like one last try knowing the proper connections before opening up the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is there any additional switching after the ASD? I see Autozone shows a fuel pump relay. The wire color out of the ASD does not match up to any of the 3 wires that connect to the fuel pump. Anybody know about a fuel pump relay on an 89 Horizon?
 

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ASD Relay is the fuel pump relay. Autozone is not know for accuracy. Use a multimeter to figure out what those three wires at at the fuel pump. Ground and ignition 12v should be easy to fine, the left over is for fuel gauge.

Automatic Shut Down Relay - MiniMopar Resources

Mini-Mopar Turbo Performance

Another consideration for fuel pumps is the power feed. The power to the fuel pump is drawn through a long chain of wire and connectors, which creates a significant voltage drop. It goes from the ASD Relay, through a 14 gauge wire, to a 20 amp fuse, through a 16 gauge wire to the left body connector, and then through a long 14 gauge wire to the pump. Voltages of 8V to 12V at the pump are not uncommon (when the system is at 14V), You can get rid of a lot of this loss by running a 10 or 12 gauge wire right from the ASD relay to the fuel pump. Be sure to install your own 20A inline fuse. Also check the ground for the pump, which often is fed by a ground lug in the trunk.
 

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1)If the car starts and runs on Starter Fluid you Do Not have an ASD Relay Circuit problem.
If the ASD Relay Circuit was to blame you would also lose power to the + Coil, Fuel Injector and the Heater Circuit on the HO2S.

2)The ASD Relay Powers the Fuel Pump thru Fuse #10 (20 Amp) in the Fuse Panel.
If the Fuse is Blown chances are it is the Fuel Pump that is Drawing Excessive Amperage.

3)The Wire Colors are as follows...
a)Dark Green (DG) - Power to Fuel Pump from ASD Relay thru Fuse #10
b)Gray (GY) - Body Ground for the Fuel Pump and Sending Unit.
c)Dark Blue - Signal from Sending Unit to Instrument Cluster

4)If you want to Check Power into and out of Fuse #10 and from Fuse #10 to the Fuel Pump you will need to "Manually" Actuate the ASD Relay so you will have power without having to constantly "Crank" the engine.
(The ASD Relay will only be actuated for 1 second with initial key on and will not be actuated again until the controller see's a crank signal from the HEP (Hall Effect Pickup)

5)To Manually actuate the ASD Relay...
a)Locate the Underhood Diagnostic Connector
b)Connect a Jumper Wire from the Dark Blue/Yellow (DB/YL) wire to a Known Good Body Ground.
c)Turn the Key to the "On" position.

Wire Technology Electronic device Auto part Cable

6)If Fuse # 10 is "Blown" it is either a Short to Ground on the Power Circuit "After" the Fuse or the Fuel Pump is Drawing Excessive Amperage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thank You Guys for responding.
I was working off of a library borrowed "Chilton Manual" which didn't have the fuel tank diagram. I also posted to "AllPar" forums and received responses. My replies explain more below.
I have 12v, momentarily, properly, at fuse #10 when the key is turned to "On." Fuse #10 tests good.
When my daughter wakes up, "2nd shift chemistry tech," I'll check for the 12v pulse at the fuel pump plug. I again put 12v and ground directly to the pump to no avail. I think I will be changing the fuel pump through the right side of the tank, lowering only the e-brake cable for clearance.

Recommendation for fuel pump type for this back-up car. I have AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Napa and Advance as local sources.

85lebaront2 on AllPar forums sent me the AllData diagrams for an 89 Horizon but even AllData's diagrams are *'ed meaning that reality might be different. I have attached them. Didn't upload. Windows XP Google Chrome problem???

To AllanC:
I'm comparing the 89 ASD to the working 88 ASD from another Horizon, also 91 Spirit and engineering knowledge of relays in general. Yes there is some resistance so the coil has not burned out on the control side of the 89 ASD. No click on the 89 ASD but clicks on the 88 & 91 ASDs and felt movement when 12V applied to control side. 89 ASD continues open circuit on the switched side with 12V applied to control side. Contacts frozen open or some such damage to switched circuit to maintain open state. 88 and 91 properly switched to closed and resistance to zero when 12V applied to control side. Ergo, bad 89 ASD and I can't plug in the 88 because reversed locking tab and the 91 plugs in but different part number. But when the 91 ASD is plugged in the pump still doesn't activate.
The picture you provided is not the fuel tank on my 89 Horizon. The fuel tank's opening for the pump is on the short side of the tank which is on the passenger side just in front of the rear wheel. There are three wires going in to the connector, color determined after cleaning off the dirt.
Familiar with Acclaim. Have/had 91 Acclaim, 91 Spirit, 92 Acclaim, 93 Spirit, 94 Spirit. 89 Voyager, 91 Caravan, 94 Shadow as well as 88 and 89 Horizons. On Acclaims/Spirits, Caravan, Shadow the fuel pump opening is in center back of the tank. Horizons are the only right side opening I have ever seen. You probably got a picture from a site that used a generic picture.
Your 89 Spirit wiring diagram shows DkGr (no stripe) as the power lead and the Gy (gray) as the ground to the fuel pump. I do have a DkGr w/WT stripe and Gy wires in the 3 wire plug attaching to the fuel pump. The 3rd wire is LtGr w/Yl stripe. I am assuming the Gy is power because it attaches to the only Copper connector on the pump.

To ImperialCrown:
It was working except for a parasitic current draw that would drain the battery in two days. I put on a quick disconnect battery terminal and ran it a while longer just disconnecting the battery when parked. Then I parked it a long time and when I came back to it I found the terminal still connected, battery dead (but 8yr old battery) and it no longer had working ASD or fuel pump prime. W/new battery it cranks and starts on starting fluid but that indicated fuel delivery problem. No fuel pumped from fuel line disconnected from the TBI. It had always sounded the fuel pump prime with key to "On" before "Start." Now, no fuel pump prime and no fuel from line.

To 85LeBaronT2:
Thank You for your response. The AllData diagrams are gold! The 3 pin plug to the pump & sending unit is there and the power must be my DkGr w/Wt stripe shown as DkGr* on the diagrams and thus subject to change.
After being handled and bounced around yesterday I repeated the voltage/continuity check on my 89 ASD and it worked. Click and felt movement with application of 12v and changed from open to almost zero resistance across the switched terminals. I'll replace it B4 using the car on the road.
I see the 12v pulse at fuse #10 when the key is turned to "On" prior to "Start." Fuse #10 tests good. When my daughter wakes up, "2nd shift chemistry tech," I'll check for the 12v pulse at the fuel pump plug. I again put 12v and ground directly to the pump to no avail. I think I will be changing the fuel pump through the right side of the tank, lowering only the e-brake cable for clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So the fuel pump/sending unit is removed through the right side hole w/o dropping the tank but the filter sock is only a few threads and the fuel pump hanger is rusted inside the fuel tank. The tank is in the process of being dropped to be cleaned. Bolts are wire brushed then sprayed with penetrant and soaking while I write this. Fuel tank will be cleaned out then everything will be reassembled and the the whole tank/pump/sending unit will be installed together. I shudder to think how much this job would cost to have done at a shop at $75/hour or how much they would have shortcut to just put it back together dirty. I would say that anyone planning on doing this job would have to drop the tank and clean it out. The fuel pump makes one shudder when power is applied but doesn't spin. It is probably worn out from sucking rust and dirt so that the rotor is stuck to the permanent magnets inside the pump. Just worn out.
 

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Avoid Airtex Pumps.
I was a Commercial Manager at AZ for 6 years, Autozone got rid of Airtex...
They also kicked Cardone to the curb for Quality issues, was it the same with Airtex?
They replaced Airtex with Delphi and they also carry Spectra Premium.

It appears that Spectra Premium is the only other company (other than Airtex) that manufactures the entire assembly, they are a Canadian company that also manufactures Radiators, Condensers and Evaporators.

The choice then becomes saving money or convenience if there is an issue.
AZ is $158.99 and Rock Auto is $101.89.

Keep us posted.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5801961&cc=1238183&jsn=394&jsn=394
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank You. A repair shop owner I've known 12 years also said no to Airtex. I am going to buy the whole Spectra Premium setup from Rock Auto. Tank, rubber donut for the filler pipe, complete pump assembly, locking gas cap, and I'm replacing all the rubber hose bits including at the TBI with Fuel injection hose and changing the fuel filter w/a new WIX fuel filter. This whole package is inexpensive purchased together and makes the reassembly easy. I have multiple cars so I can park this one to wait for parts. The 89 has the GLH braking system and heavy duty 14" rims on GLH steering knuckles with reinforced van control arms w/Moog bushings. I just like the Horizon but have no reason to make it fast. I like this 89 Horizon and will probably swap it's 152,000 mile engine and trans for a 70,000 mile damaged 88 Horizon that I also have.

I initially was just going to buy the Delphi kit and change the pump with a new strainer but when I pulled out the pump hanger I knew it would be better to change everything. After 30 years there was just too much corrosion to start cleaning unless you're dead ass broke and have to do it at minimum cost.

This Horizon's fuel mileage was always in the 20's and I expected 30+ mpg from leisurly accelaration and 50 mph cruising to work at 4am. I also thought I sometimes smelt gas when at stop lights. Turns out that fuel was probably leaking out of the 1/4" rubber hose connecting the fuel return line back to the fuel pump hanger. Some excess fuel was not making the round trip.

There is another way to supply power past the ASD other than with a ground jumper to energize the internal coil and close the contacts. Remove the ASD relay from it's socket, tin the ends of a paperclip and use it as a jumper across the socket slots that are at right angle to each other. 12.6v at the battery, 12.37v at the fuel pump connector plug, and when removed, battery power straight to the pump connectors makes the pump shudder but not spin. When the bearings wear out on a permanent magnet motor the rotor gets stuck to the stator. This is why whacking the fuel tank with a hammer sometimes makes the motor work again, for a little while. If it is worn this badly only replacement will fix the problem.
 
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