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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there, me again...

Last night I left my car in gear going down a hill and, because my valve stem seals leak, I fouled one of my plugs!

When I got home, I popped the hood and the car was running on 3 cylinders, to see which one it was, I unplugged the spark plug wires one-by-one and found which one it was!

I then banged my head on the hood and dropped the wire I was holding, it hit the side of the engine and sparked and then the car shut off.

Now when I try and start the car... no spark... I pulled a plug and watched it, no spark, the fuel pump does come on... AHHHH!!!
 

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Hey there, me again...

Last night I left my car in gear going down a hill and, because my valve stem seals leak, I fouled one of my plugs!

When I got home, I popped the hood and the car was running on 3 cylinders, to see which one it was, I unplugged the spark plug wires one-by-one and found which one it was!

I then banged my head on the hood and dropped the wire I was holding, it hit the side of the engine and sparked and then the car shut off.

Now when I try and start the car... no spark... I pulled a plug and watched it, no spark, the fuel pump does come on... AHHHH!!!
check codes if nothing parts cannon do the hep,coil,lm etc...
 

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Rather than guessing follow the flowchart below and post back.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Rather than guessing follow the flowchart below and post back.

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When I pulled the spark plug wires when the car was running I definitely held the wires farther than 1/4 from the engine!

Did I kill my ecu?

Doing your tests now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rather than guessing follow the flowchart below and post back.


The coil is solid on both sides, no blinky blinky on the negative!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just ran the codes... got 12(I disconnected the battery recently) 36 wastegate or solenoid disconnected and 55(end)

I'll try giving it a good long crank and see if it trips any codes, my poor LeBaron!
 

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View attachment 277689

My car is showing RPMs when the engine is off, what the heck!?!?!?!
I got RPM's with the car off with a broken HEP on that 86 600ES. Did you try another one? Also do you have a spare SMEC? I keep spares even had a SMEC that barely charged (12.8v) but I kept it as a test SMEC...
Also test for power at the ign coil and see if the ground blinks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just got a code 54 on my last scan!

Check out how the wires for my HEP are mounted:
I got RPM's with the car off with a broken HEP on that 86 600ES. Did you try another one? Also do you have a spare SMEC? I keep spares even had a SMEC that barely charged (12.8v) but I kept it as a test SMEC...
Also test for power at the ign coil and see if the ground blinks...
I have my 1993 2.5 non-turbo voyager, I can borrow that one and try tomorrow when it's light out!

I found a spare SMEC on Ebay, as soon as I have a few extra bucks I'm going to snag it!

Doesn't seem right that I have 1000 rpms showing on my digital dash with just the key turned to accessories. Also getting code 54. I really hope I didn't blow my SMEC up... also the wires for the HEP are just dangling out of the bottom of the distributor and the plastic plate was really loose. The only thing I did when the car died was unplug a couple of spark plug wires and accidentally discharge them into the valve cover / head while trying to figure out which of my cylinders was out from sucking in oil by leaving the car in-gear, since the car has leaky valve stem seals... The car died after a few zaps of the head and then now I have no spark...

With my tester on the coil, both positive and negative, when cranking the light does NOT go out, but it does pulsate, but it doesn't go out or flash.
 

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Just got a code 54 on my last scan!

Check out how the wires for my HEP are mounted:


I have my 1993 2.5 non-turbo voyager, I can borrow that one and try tomorrow when it's light out!

I found a spare SMEC on Ebay, as soon as I have a few extra bucks I'm going to snag it!

Doesn't seem right that I have 1000 rpms showing on my digital dash with just the key turned to accessories. Also getting code 54. I really hope I didn't blow my SMEC up... also the wires for the HEP are just dangling out of the bottom of the distributor and the plastic plate was really loose. The only thing I did when the car died was unplug a couple of spark plug wires and accidentally discharge them into the valve cover / head while trying to figure out which of my cylinders was out from sucking in oil by leaving the car in-gear, since the car has leaky valve stem seals... The car died after a few zaps of the head and then now I have no spark...

With my tester on the coil, both positive and negative, when cranking the light does NOT go out, but it does pulsate, but it doesn't go out or flash.
Try the coil from your van if it's the can type.

I think NAJ posted how to test the coil primary and secondary windings with a multimeter. If your lucky it's not the SMEC.

You can trace the wires from the coil to the SMEC\SBEC and test em for breaks...

Also if the 93 Van is original it should have a SBEC not a SMEC so it's not compatible. I thought you have 1989 wiring? Also TBI logic will only fire 1 bank of injectors I think

If you have SBEC wiring someone on here sent me a 91 SBEC for a 2.5 T1 and I tested it on my 89 Daytona converted to SBEC 92 setup and it worked so they are pretty compatible...
 

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First, that engine is flooded or you have a loss of compression, you can hear it in the uneven cranking, if all of this is being caused by flooding you need to clean/replace the plugs and change the oil so you do not wash down the cylinder walls even more and then disconnect the fuel pump connector so you do not flood the engine again during diagnostics, also sounds like your battery may need a charge.

If the test lamp stays illuminated on both the + and - coil terminals while cranking...
1)You DO NOT have a HEP issue if the + coil had power cranking.
2)The - coil should be flashing on/off while cranking.
If it is not you have an issue with the coil or the coil control circuit.

Testing the coil is easy...
1)Disconnect and isolate the - coil wire from the coil.
2)Remove the secondary coil wire from the distributor cap and place the end 1/4" from a good ground.
3)Connect a jumper wire to the coil - terminal.
4)Manually actuate the ASD Relay and Turn the key "On".
(A Code 42 may be set in memory)
5)With the free end of the jumper wire momentarily touch to ground and remove.
6)Each time you remove the jumper from ground you should have spark from the coil secondary wire.
7)If you do, the coil is good.
If the coil tests good then you need to check the coil control circuit for an open or short.
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If you get to this point post back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Testing the coil is easy...
1)Disconnect and isolate the - coil wire from the coil.
2)Remove the secondary coil wire from the distributor cap and place the end 1/4" from a good ground.
3)Connect a jumper wire to the coil - terminal.
4)Manually actuate the ASD Relay and Turn the key "On".
(A Code 42 may be set in memory)
5)With the free end of the jumper wire momentarily touch to ground and remove.
6)Each time you remove the jumper from ground you should have spark from the coil secondary wire.
7)If you do, the coil is good.
If the coil tests good then you need to check the coil control circuit for an open or short.
View attachment 277713

If you get to this point post back.
Will test the coil today, I also get a code 54!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It also has forged pistons and I didn't boost it more than like 5 psi because it was raining the night I drove it... how in the hell could a cylinder die under part throttle conditions, low boost, with forged pistons?!
 

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Code 54 is the HEP Fuel Sync Circuit.
If the Code 54 is happening all of the time you would not have any power to the Coil +, the engine controller on a turbo car needs to see both a crank/rpm and fuel sync signal from the HEP before it will actuate the ASD Relay, without the ASD Relay being actuated you have no power to the + coil, fuel pump or injectors.

If/when you lose power to the + coil then you can test the HEP circuit, however,
I have seen stranger things in my 40 years of turning wrenches, to say that the HEP circuit is not causing this would be a mistake, anything is possible.
 

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It also has forged pistons and I didn't boost it more than like 5 psi because it was raining the night I drove it... how in the hell could a cylinder die under part throttle conditions, low boost, with forged pistons?!
One thing at a time, you need to get spark and get all of that excess fuel out of that engine.
Once you get all of the excess fuel out of the engine, disconnect the fuel pump and have a fully charged battery then you can perform a cylinder compression test if you want.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
6)Each time you remove the jumper from ground you should have spark from the coil secondary wire.
7)If you do, the coil is good.
If the coil tests good then you need to check the coil control circuit for an open or short.
View attachment 277713

If you get to this point post back.
I just tested it but the battery was cranking slow, charging my booster box now... the spark was there but it was a VERY weak looking, hair-thin blue spark... it didn't even make a zap like it normally does!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just installed the fully-charged battery from my 1993 Voyager 2.5 TBI 5-speed and using the same test I could barely get any spark from the coil wire, there were bigger sparks when removing + plugging back in the - coil wire to ground!
 
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