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You do not need to crank the engine when testing the coil, but the battery must be fully charged, get the battery charged and be sure you have 12 volts at the + coil terminal with the ASD Relay manually actuated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
You do not need to crank the engine when testing the coil, but the battery must be fully charged, get the battery charged and be sure you have 12 volts at the + coil terminal with the ASD Relay manually actuated.
Yeah I just used the brand new battery from my 1993 Voyager... the spark from the top of the coil was sooooo weak and didn't even make the zap sound... the other night when I pulled the spark plug wire and it grounded to the cylinder head the zap was sooooo loud and it was a big blue spark. Then it died!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You do not need to crank the engine when testing the coil, but the battery must be fully charged, get the battery charged and be sure you have 12 volts at the + coil terminal with the ASD Relay manually actuated.
Just looking for my multi-tester tool to verify 12 volts!

God I hope my engine isn't blown, it has forged pistons and I didn't floor it or even give it beyond 50% throttle, ahhh!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So you have voltage at the coil. NAJ posted the test . You just have to ground the coil and when you remove the ground you should get a spark...
I did but it is a VERY weak looking and sounding spark... I won't have a tripod or I'd record it... also when cranking there isn't even a single sputter... the motor doesn't even try and start...
 

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My multi-tester reads 12.47 volts at my battery and 11.54 volts at the + of the coil!

(ASD relay manually actuated!)
So you have voltage at the coil. NAJ posted the test . You just have to ground the coil and when you remove the ground you should get a spark...
View attachment 277755

Whazzat little silver cylinder thingy?

Man I am NEVER going to unplug a spark plug wire again while the car is running, haha... never knew I could mess things up SO bad like this.
It's called a condenser. One of the spare coils I had actually had 1 attached to it but most of the cars I have don't have that
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
So you have voltage at the coil. NAJ posted the test . You just have to ground the coil and when you remove the ground you should get a spark...
I tried that and half the time it wouldn't spark at all, and when I got it to spark the spark was VERY thin and didn't have the loud "zap" it had the other night when this problem started, and that's with the fully charged battery from my Voyager plugged in... hmmm...

It SHOULD ground right to the cylinder head, right? I'll try it again!
 

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I just tried again for like 30 minutes and no matter what I couldn't get any sparky sparky from the top of the coil :(
If the coil is dead and you get a solid + and blinking on the ground then it might be a bad coil.

Is the ground blinking when you crank it?

And does it change when you connect the coil?

Did you check the wires on the HEP? When I got that Dodge 600 running I went to shut it off and it wouldn't start after that and then I saw this.
Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Tread Motor vehicle


Had a similar issue on a 2016 Nissan a coil melted/shorted car died. Swapped it out and I had blinking ground and solid + but when I plugged in the coil it went dead.

Then I found a secret fuse box behind the battery and it ran after changing the coil fuse.

I don't think there is a coil fuse on the Chrysler's if there is NAJ probably knows.
If not the SMEC might be bad.

Other long shots are check if the timing belt jumped. That's why that Dodge 600 wouldn't start. And check for bad gas. Got a free generator today spent a hr playing with it then dumped the gas on the ground and it wouldn't ignite even with a lighter. So flushed in New gas and it started runs good....then the pull rope snapped...
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The light on - doesn't blink... stays solid just like on + when cranking... God I cannot believe this happened, AND I'm nervous as hell that somehow I blew the motor with forged pistons when I didn't even push the car at all? It totally sounds like the engine is down compression on a cylinder!

I unplugged all sparkplugs except for cylinder #2, the one that was running bad, and I cranked the engine and I could hear the "puff" sound coming from the exhaust, so it sounds it it is moving SOME air? The pistons are like 7:1 or something and forged, how the hell could this happen at part throttle when I run it rich?!
 

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The light on - doesn't blink... stays solid just like on + when cranking... God I cannot believe this happened, AND I'm nervous as hell that somehow I blew the motor with forged pistons when I didn't even push the car at all? It totally sounds like the engine is down compression on a cylinder!

I unplugged all sparkplugs except for cylinder #2, the one that was running bad, and I cranked the engine and I could hear the "puff" sound coming from the exhaust, so it sounds it it is moving SOME air? The pistons are like 7:1 or something and forged, how the hell could this happen at part throttle when I run it rich?!
The ground should be blinking. Looks like the secondary is no good if your numbers are accurate..
I think a coil is $10

Test the wiring like I did on that Nissan. Test light on the positive terminal to test the ground wire for blinks while cranking...

And check for that code 54. If you have a older LM or SMEC you have to reset it by disconnecting the pos terminal and letting it sit or touch it to the ground to clear it...

That 86 600 started then stalled twice yesterday and the code 54 and 15 (speed sensor) popped up so I reset the LM and it runs fine again...
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Test the wiring like I did on that Nissan. Test light on the positive terminal to test the ground wire for blinks while cranking...

And check for that code 54.
I tried the probe on + and then connecting it to the body... solid red while cranking

Then I tried the probe on - then connecting it to the body... solid red while cranking

Am I doing this right?!

I don't think the coil is firing at all because I've tried getting it to spark soooo many times now and the only "spark" I can get out of the secondary is like a teeny tiny little hair-thin blue spark that doesn't even make a zap noise. Before the car died it was throwing blue lightning bolts and going "zap zap zap" really loud!
 

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I tried the probe on + and then connecting it to the body... solid red while cranking

Then I tried the probe on - then connecting it to the body... solid red while cranking

Am I doing this right?!

I don't think the coil is firing at all because I've tried getting it to spark soooo many times now and the only "spark" I can get out of the secondary is like a teeny tiny little hair-thin blue spark that doesn't even make a zap noise. Before the car died it was throwing blue lightning bolts and going "zap zap zap" really loud!
What kind of "Probe" ? I used a $2 test light and you test for grounds by putting one end on the positive battery terminal then probing the negative..
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
What kind of "Probe" ? I used a $2 test light and you test for grounds by putting one end on the positive battery terminal then probing the negative..
Bicycle part Audio equipment Cable Automotive lighting Slope

I have one of these and the battery is in the trunk so I just measure from the needle point touching the + or the - and then connect the clamp part to a good ground... am I doing it wrong?!
 

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I am sorry that you bumped your head. One of the dangers about testing a coil is not having a Ground close enough to spark. The fear is that the coil will develop an internal short. I suggest that this is what happened. I did not know that the ECU could be damaged, too, . The ECU is smart enough to turn off the gas if it does not detect a sgnal from the HEP, so the fact that the fuel [pump is coming on during engine cranking would suggest that the ECU believes the engine is ready to start as soon as the coil is sparking the plugs. The sparkplugs should all be clean and dry. The plug wires can develop rust and resistance so I always coat the connections to the plugs with dielectric grease to keep the moisture out.
 
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