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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have a link as in regards to the modifications done to the distributor so everything works correctly when putting it in the head?

thanks, chris
 

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Dean Stillie said:
Just make a plat from .5" thick aluminum and cut a slot in the end of the cam. make sure its centred

What is a plat? Do you mean Plate? Do you have a picture of this setup?

Would you use the stock distributor body (with timing mods) just bolted up to the slotted cam end? or does the body need to be modified to attach? :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That was the link I was looking for. Thanks so much. There should be put up on a sticky for the various methods for getting the electronics taken care of.
 

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I was offering the drive plate and the modded stock dist. for $250 way back in the day. But, alas, I only ever sold two of them. Lost my butt on the sales too since there wasn't near the demand I thought there would be to meet the minimum build for a decent price break on the machining.



Yes, you use a stock dist. modded to work in reverse rotation. Simply drill out the rivets and reposition the trigger wheel till the pin can "point/slide" thru the #1 cylinder reference hole in the trigger vane. And re-rivet. Now that is the very simply explanation to a long process but, there you go.

If people are still interested I will post my technical drawings on my newer website (www.trailerballracing.com)and the CAD programs that I made.

If anyone wants to talk to me personally please call me.

Dave Bohrer

850-261-5212 celly
 

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I would like to know how to make the drive plate.

I am trying to determine if it is cheaper to keep the distributor in the stock location and fabricate an intake or use the SRT4 intake and move the distributor. This is under the assumption that the SRT4 intake will fit between the 16V head and the radiator without any clearance issues.
 

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I found this showing a distributor mount on the exhaust cam of a TIII

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/friends_dave_st_louis.html

Quote:
I also use a distributor on the exhaust cam. I used an oval 1/2 thick piece of aluminum, a stock distributor that I re-indexed the reluctor on, and a stock pickup coil. I did this so that if need be and I get stuck somewhere, its easy to get parts, plus its cheap! I tacked an oil slinger at the stock drive cog on the distributor and so far no oil leaks, as there is no seal on the shaft. Timing is set at 12deg. Computer for now is a 89MP T2 one with one of my zeners. (Cant post the pics shown)
 

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I modified a dist to go on the end of the cam.With all the work that is involved, it is better(and cheaper in the long run) to buy a finished product from dave.

Carl
 

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Discussion Starter #12
that's what i figured. Dave, are you up for it? Also does anyone have drawings of the plate they made for those who are the DIY type?
 

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For what I can tell you notch the end of the cam, make a plate to bolt to the head and modify the distributor pickup and wiring to receive the signal in the correct order.

Does not seem too hard to do. I would like to see the drawings or a closer view of the finished setup.

Does anyone make just the plate ready for sale still?
 

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i might be up to it. I will check to see what the minimum build would be to get a price break is. This will take me a few days since I am flying out tomorrow and the the machine shop is in Pensacola. I will make a new thread when I have info.

The wiring for the pick up plate is easy. Swap the two signal wires at the ECU (SMEC,SBEC,ecu whatever) and turn the dist. pick up 180 degrees. Done.
 

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I would bite at a price of $25-35 for a mounting plate and maybe something to fit into a slotted cam end with me modding my stock distributor. Is that a reasonable price break for the minimum of fab. parts provided and the bs work DIYS
 

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my cost on the billet spacer and drive plate was 275.:-[

Then again I wanted it to look good.
 

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eh? I don't understand. Do you want to know the price for materials?
 
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