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Discussion Starter #1
My engine died while on a 500 mile trip (89 Shelby Daytona 2.2 five speed). While troubleshooting the engine I found that the distributor isnt rotating. I pulled the distributor and it functions as it should. I cranked the starter and looked in the hole and the keyway doesn't turn on the shaft. My timing belt and all pulleys rotate. My questions are, is there an internal chain turning the shaft that rotates the distributor and does this repair require pulling the engine.
 

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The shaft that rotates the distributor is driven by the timing belt. If the distributor is not turning and it is not the actual distributor, then the timing belt is stripped or somehow the shaft is broken. I have not seen the a broken shaft before. The timing always goes first.
To change the timing belt you do not need to pull the engine.
If it is the shaft you may have to.
Once you take the old timing belt off you will be able to turn the distributor and it's shaft.


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a jack and a block of wood are good but the mount does not have to come out

the alternator / a-c bracket does however and it uses some of the mount hardware to hold it on at the end of the block

as far as the mount goes you only need remove the two bolts holding it to the frame rail and raise the end of the motor enough to slip the belt under

you are going to have to remove the big nut facing forward on the arm of the passenger mount assembly along with the two nuts that hold an L shaped bracket and the alternator/a-c bracket

having these three nuts off the mount and needing to raise it are the reason for the block and jack

though I've done it with a 1/2 socket extension and a couple of thick towels

slip the extension through the open part of the mount
wrap rag around each end for hand protection incase things slip and grunt real hard
while a helper slips the belt under

on the side of the road one might not have a floor jack ..handy

it's not so heavy as you might think

in fact I've installed headless engines with trans this way with an extension , a floor jack and a cheap old wooden mechanics creeper to use as an engine cart low enough to slide under the car through the passenger wheel well
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The timing belt is not broken and all the pulleys rotate when the engine turns over, I haven't checked to see if the teeth are stripped on the belt yet, but if the pulleys rotate that kind of rules out stripped belt teeth. Is there a key on the shaft holding on the pulley for the shaft that rotates the distributor, maybe that broke away or something. I will pull the belt and pulley and check.
 

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it's likely the teeth have striped off the belt and it's slipping

if you've removed the lower half of the timing cover and can see the pulley for the dist shaft actually turning then you could have a much larger problem

that slot that drives the distributor IS the top of the oil pump drive gear
there's a gear on the intermediate shaft that turns the pump & distributor

on some of the newer cars that gear has proven to be a problem as they strip the gears

it could also be as simple as your timing belt tensioner has come loose and is allowing the belt to slip
 

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The timing belt is not broken and all the pulleys rotate when the engine turns over, I haven't checked to see if the teeth are stripped on the belt yet, but if the pulleys rotate that kind of rules out stripped belt teeth. Is there a key on the shaft holding on the pulley for the shaft that rotates the distributor, maybe that broke away or something. I will pull the belt and pulley and check.
If your pulley rotates for the intermediate (I-)shaft (one that operates the distributor and oil pump) then only two possibilities are left.

Key sheared for the I-shaft to pulley

or

I-shaft is broken

I am leaning toward the broken I-shaft because with the distributor removed there is not much load on the I-shaft, and just friction of the pulley on shaft should still rotate the distributor slot. A broken shaft wouldn't.

Not great news either way, because then you had a brief period of oil starvation due to the oil pump not running as well.

The cause of a sheared key or broken shaft would be I-shaft bearing failure.
 

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Or to give you the "Readers Digest" version.

If the belt teeth are not stripped remove the belt and turn the Intermediate Shaft by hand and look to see if the Oil Pump Shaft is turning.

ENGINE- Lubrication 2.jpg

ENGINE- Oil Pump Shaft Alignment.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I finally removed all the parts in the timing belt area. Yeah the belt had teeth stripped off in areas and the more I cranked the engine
troubleshooting the other day the more teeth fell off because eventually no pulleys would turn. Thanks to everyone for all your help and advice it helped out greatly!
 
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