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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys, my neighbor has a 1995 Dodge Spirit with the 3.0L in it. Anyway, she was driving it the other day, and it just died. I took a look at it, and low and behold, it has no spark. Fuel pump runs when key is turned on, gets the 12 and 55 codes when checked, and the ASD relay is fine. So, first thought is the optical pickup. Replaced it, still no fire. Found a known good ECM, still no fire. I checked all the grounds, from the battery, engine, and engine to body, all good. All fuses and fusible links look good. Tried a 2nd optical pickup (both were brand new in the box), still no fire. It doesn't seem to be firing the injectors either. Anyone have any ideas what to try next? I am stumped! Thanks.
 

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Loose wiring???? No fuses blown? Any of the wiring look charred or burnt??
 

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Have you tried *testing* the injectors to see if they are getting voltage to them?....a simple test light will do the job just by pulling off the electrical plug to each injector one by one and plugging the probe end of the test light into the feed side, ground the tester, and then crank the engine, if the feed is live the tester should flash on and off, if it does not then there is a problem found. Same thing with the harness to the distributor, check to see if you have voltage to the distributor. Has the coil failed?...have you lost voltage to the coil?...Electrical problems CAN be a nightmare. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I can't find any blown fuses, or any burnt wires. There is no power to the coil but there is power to the injectors, which leads me back to the ASD, but it seems to be functioning. And yes, it cranks over fine. There is just no spark at all, and its not firing the injectors either when you crank it over for a little bit.
 

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Alright.....a little bit of confusion here....You do have voltage to the feed side of the injectors?..(as tested with a test light?)...but you say the injectors don't pulse when the engine is cranked?...The coil supply side should be live as soon as you turn the key as it takes its feed directly off of the alternator circuit. The *ground* side of the coil goes back into the SBEC on pin #19.
 

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Alright.....a little bit of confusion here....You do have voltage to the feed side of the injectors?..(as tested with a test light?)...but you say the injectors don't pulse when the engine is cranked?...The coil supply side should be live as soon as you turn the key as it takes its feed directly off of the alternator circuit. The *ground* side of the coil goes back into the SBEC on pin #19.
I,m thinking that your SBEC has failed if you have no control of either the injectors or the coil. They both have a common live side but the SBEC controls both of these circuits
 

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Does the rotor turn when you crank the engine? I am suspecting timing belt or cam alignment pin...
 

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really sounds like the HEP to me
3.0's don't use a HEP.

the fact you have power to the injectors but not the coil sure leads to a wiring problem. you need a schematic and do some wire tracing.

you need to test the wiring to the distributor as well. make sure you have power to there. if you are getting power to the injectors and have no plus, that goes right along with no spark. the injectors wouldn't fire if there is no spark /crank signal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You know, I never did look at the distributor to see if it was turning. It seems to crank like normal (compression on all cylinders) so I didn't think about it. Ive been working on it by myself, and you cant see the thing from inside the car when cranking it. It needs a new water pump anyway, so I was going to have to change the belt, but I need to figure out why it won't run first before she decides to scrap the car....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I got to looking today, and low and behold, the distributor isn't turning. It never even dawned on me to look at that... Anyway, I needed to put a water pump in it anyway, so I guess I will just do everything at once! Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good thing it's non-interference!
:) Thats kind of funny actually... I got the timing belt on today, and it fired right up. Whats funny is that on the package with the timing belt and tensioner (kit) it says if belt is broke to check for engine damage as the 3.0 is an interference engine... News to me. :thumb:
 

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Learned something here....wouldn't have thought that the distributor NOT turning would cancel the ability for the SBEC to receive a reference pulse back to the SBEC and kill the signal to the injectors seeing as no code 11 was set....hmmm
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
By the way, the water pump was the problem here... It had locked up, and that caused the belt to break. Not bad though for a car with 140,000 on the clock, and it never being changed. It was a pain having to take the intake off though for one stupid bolt to change the water pump.. .What a terrible design! :bang head
 

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I've never had to take the intake off to change the water pump. The bolt on top of the water pump can be taken off with a wrench, or just cut the bracket.

:) Thats kind of funny actually... I got the timing belt on today, and it fired right up. Whats funny is that on the package with the timing belt and tensioner (kit) it says if belt is broke to check for engine damage as the 3.0 is an interference engine... News to me. :thumb:
Yeah I've noticed a lot of places list it as an interference engine, and I've talked to people who were convinced that their Chrysler 3.0L needs new valves when the timing belt breaks. Misinformation FTW!
 

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By the way, the water pump was the problem here... It had locked up, and that caused the belt to break. Not bad though for a car with 140,000 on the clock, and it never being changed. It was a pain having to take the intake off though for one stupid bolt to change the water pump.. .What a terrible design! :bang head
you can remove it with a wrench, i've done it twice without taking the lower intake off. I'm sure it makes it easier to do though without the intake on.
 

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On the off chance you have not separated the water pump and housing, an impact screw driver makes the job _MUCH_ easier... Without one, you will likely strip the head of the screws. Many parts stores have them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Actually, I bent the bracket out of the way, and still couldn't get the pump off... That o-ring on the water tube was stuck good. I just couldn't get it broke loose without taking the intake off for some reason. Good thing I did though, as there was a huge mouse nest under the upper intake, and tons of mouse crap under there... Very nice. :eek:

One thing that would have been nice was to know that there is the one screw that comes in from the back to hold the pump to the housing... If it wasn't for that, you could just seperate it on the car and wouldn't have to take the o-ring out, though that back gasket might be a problem now that I think about it.
 
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