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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed the oil line that go to the turbo, (batterie was also unpluged for 2 days)

Now i dont feel any boost, the boost gage looks normal, the needle go up to 10psi , but the car isnt going any faster :bang head

So i guess if the gauge show boost, my turbo is ok, it must be a pressure or vaccum leak somewhere???
 

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Where is your boost gauge sourced from? If it's from the turbo and not the intake , then you could have a I/C hose off/leaking bad(turbo is boosting but not making it to the engine). Check all your connections from turbo to intake. If thats not it and boost is getting to the engine, you have a bigger/different problem. Check all vacuum lines(especially to Map). Check Compression. Let us know what you find!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I dont know what is sending the signal to the stock boost gauge.

I cheked and all i can see seems to be ok.

May i tell you that i would never have expect that such a clean looking car could be such a curse.

One thing after the other, at least no real major issue yet.

I get code 21 two time in row now:confused: so i looked at the O2 sensor harness and its all butchered.
 

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How fast is the boost gauge reacting? Is it steady at 10 psi? Fix the O2 harness. They were origionally routed over the exhaust manifold at the base of the air cleaner and they often melted and shorted the signal. Fix that and see where things are.

Take one wire at a time and lengthen it about a foot and route it along the firewall at the top by the rubber seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The gauge is going normal i think, but i never got a car like this before.
i get 10psi only on hard acceleration at about 5000rpm

I may have skiped a tooth on the timing belt ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I dont know for the blow off valve, i dont hear it much.
I though these are usualy kind of quiet.

Just verified my cams with dial indicator and degree wheel.
Actual centerlines:
Exhaust: 99 deg
Intake: 142 deg ------- this is way off!!
I got it back 2 tooth to get 124 deg

Ill see tomorow how it go.
Also i will replace all vacuum line.
 

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Belt tension will effect cams timing as well. Everytime you slack the belt it will change timing when you retension it. I fought that crap forever trying cam keys, I finally just used adj gears. 2-3 degrees per cam will drop 20+ h.p.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, at least the car is now running like it was before, i can feel the turbo kick in again!

But 224HP... no-way!
My gf's Talon Tsi is much more powerfull then my R/T yet.
And the Talon is rated 210Hp 200 Lbs torque.

I tested the compression:

cyl 1 : 135 psi
cyl 2 : 110 psi
cyl 3 : 115 psi
cyl 4 : 140 psi
 

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Well, at least the car is now running like it was before, i can feel the turbo kick in again!

But 224HP... no-way!
My gf's Talon Tsi is much more powerfull then my R/T yet.
And the Talon is rated 210Hp 200 Lbs torque.

I tested the compression:

cyl 1 : 135 psi
cyl 2 : 110 psi
cyl 3 : 115 psi
cyl 4 : 140 psi
You have an extreamly unhappy RT if your girlfriends TSI is beating your rt. My near stock shelby whoops near stock TSI's. Like Wallace said you have some unhappy comp numbers there.
 

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you should do a leak down test to have a more thorough idea

as far as replacing pistons a hone at least is recommended, its hard to say other than that till you have the block measured/checked
 
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