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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a secret to getting the doors off my Rampage so I can paint the car? I've tried driving the pins out in both directions (up and down) but dont want to risk damaging them. Please help... thanks
 

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other than pins, i think thats really it. did you make sure there arent any bolts that you can remove as to take off the hinges? i cant remember but im sure it was just pins on the rampage
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did not see any bolts. I have the rt side fender off and the hinges are welded on. I'll try again today. Thanks.
 

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Here's something I posted a while back. It may not work exactly like this. But it was something like this that worked for me. They don't make the pins very easy to get at.

 

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With someone supporting the door, drive the bottom pin up and the top pin down. Before reinstalling doors there's a kit to repair worn pins and sagging doors. Comes with new pins and includes bushings to install in the hinges. Doors work better than new.
 

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With someone supporting the door, drive the bottom pin up and the top pin down. Before reinstalling doors there's a kit to repair worn pins and sagging doors. Comes with new pins and includes bushings to install in the hinges. Doors work better than new.
If I remember correctly, the L-Body cars have nothing more than a roll pin as a hinge pin. No bushing. Unless it's just a washer under one of the hinge halves?
 

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The repair kit comes with brass bushings that are pressed into hinges after enlarging hole slightly following directions in kit. Hinge repair kit was purchased from Chrysler and does two doors. I had to use two kits for my Omni 4-door.
 

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The repair kit comes with brass bushings that are pressed into hinges after enlarging hole slightly following directions in kit. Hinge repair kit was purchased from Chrysler and does two doors. I had to use two kits for my Omni 4-door.
How hard are the kits to install? How about to drill out the hinges?
 

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I like to use a 6" long 3/8 drive extension with a punch taped in it to get them off, so the hammer is up away from the body.

A problem with drilling and using the kit is that the hole isn't that straight. Same problem with changing doors, you have to cut the hindges and reweld them to get the body lines right.
 

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Removing the doors was the hard part. With them off, drilling out the hinges wasn"t bad.
I reinstalled the original doors.I totally agree with The Pope, as my brother worked at the Jefferson Ave. plant in Det. where some Omni's were built. No two were identical! Door was positioned on body, and hinges were welded to door and A (or B for rear) pillars
at same time. Chrysler had a Hinge-Alignment tool for adjusting fit. Similar to a big crescent wrench- slip it over the hinge and bend as needed! I"M TOTALLY SERIOUS!!
 

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I reinstalled the original doors.I totally agree with The Pope, as my brother worked at the Jefferson Ave. plant in Det. where some Omni's were built. No two were identical! Door was positioned on body, and hinges were welded to door and A (or B for rear) pillars
at same time. Chrysler had a Hinge-Alignment tool for adjusting fit. Similar to a big crescent wrench- slip it over the hinge and bend as needed! I"M TOTALLY SERIOUS!!
That's nice to know. In other words, don't ever replace the doors. Preserve them.
 

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I used a long, thin, curved (curved in myself) punch and a hammer. Soak in PB blaster overnight. Remove the fenders of course.

I'm liking Bobd's method
 

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I'm sooooooooooooo glad my Shelby Charger's in good shape body-wise (and otherwise, except for paint) :) I've done hinge pins on both the P-body Dusters I've owned. What a pain in the a**! :bang head Except for the one I'm driving now, they pretty much just fell out with a little wiggling of the door and manipulation of the pin by hand. Totally different story putting the new ones in!:bang head I just got my new pins at O'Reilly for, I think, around $11 for both of them. I used a long steel punch and a skinny-headed hammer, (like Bob has shown, except once I got the pin out far enough, I rested the punch on the head of the pin while pounding) while supporting the door with a cinder block and cardboard. But I ain't no *******!:D To get the bushings out, I just use a large screwdriver (BFS) and scrape the inner edge of the bushing until it pops right out. It only takes a few tries.
 

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I'm sooooooooooooo glad my Shelby Charger's in good shape body-wise (and otherwise, except for paint) :) I've done hinge pins on both the P-body Dusters I've owned. What a pain in the a**! :bang head Except for the one I'm driving now, they pretty much just fell out with a little wiggling of the door and manipulation of the pin by hand. Totally different story putting the new ones in!:bang head I just got my new pins at O'Reilly for, I think, around $11 for both of them. I used a long steel punch and a skinny-headed hammer, (like Bob has shown, except once I got the pin out far enough, I rested the punch on the head of the pin while pounding) while supporting the door with a cinder block and cardboard. But I ain't no *******!:D To get the bushings out, I just use a large screwdriver (BFS) and scrape the inner edge of the bushing until it pops right out. It only takes a few tries.
I just said screw it and pulled both front fenders. unbolted hinge from body and worked from there. :D

take the aftermarket hinge pins and drill a small hole into the top. helps keep the punch from walking around
 

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I just said screw it and pulled both front fenders. unbolted hinge from body and worked from there.
Unfortunately, the L-Bodies don't unbolt. The hinge is welded to the door and the car.
I too, am glad both of my GLHS's have solid straight doors. I did pull one off at a salvage yard years ago for my first Shelby Charger. That's as far as that went. The rest of the car started rusting so fast that I never tried to install it. I also bought a rust free one off ebay. That came with every corner bent from shipping. I still gave the guy good feed back. I think he paid the same for shipping as I paid him for the door and shipping. He didn't make a dime. I may never use iether of these two doors but just in case. It's too bad that a person has to get "Lucky" for them to fit properly.
 

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Unfortunately, the L-Bodies don't unbolt. The hinge is welded to the door and the car.
I too, am glad both of my GLHS's have solid straight doors. I did pull one off at a salvage yard years ago for my first Shelby Charger. That's as far as that went. The rest of the car started rusting so fast that I never tried to install it. I also bought a rust free one off ebay. That came with every corner bent from shipping. I still gave the guy good feed back. I think he paid the same for shipping as I paid him for the door and shipping. He didn't make a dime. I may never use iether of these two doors but just in case. It's too bad that a person has to get "Lucky" for them to fit properly.
I know, was referring to the person who mentioned how much of a pita it is to change the pins on a P body

welded hinges are junk. GM went back to bolt on hinges for their light trucks and SUV's for a reason. cause the fit, finish and adjustment of welded ones suck

I wonder could you drill and somehow put threaded inserts into the pillars and bolt them on ? if/when the welded 1/2 of the hinge on the shadow breaks its getting cut off and everything converted to bolt on.
 

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I just said screw it and pulled both front fenders. unbolted hinge from body and worked from there. :D

take the aftermarket hinge pins and drill a small hole into the top. helps keep the punch from walking around
I know l-body doors are welded, but on a car with bolted hinges, how is pulling the fenders easier? I hate pulling fenders!!! Back when I got my 1st Duster, the fenders were bent, so I went to the boneyard & found a green Shadow. Sweet! Same body color and they're cheap!!!:D 3 weeks later, I hit a deer.:bang head The only thing that was any good on the front end was the bumper & the left fender. Then I bought my 94 duster. a semi tractor backed into the left front of that one & only smashed the fender I had a perfect replacement for!!!:thumb: So, having said all that, I'm sick of fenders!!!:bang head I'll avoid pulling them at all costs.
 

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I know l-body doors are welded, but on a car with bolted hinges, how is pulling the fenders easier? I hate pulling fenders!!! Back when I got my 1st Duster, the fenders were bent, so I went to the boneyard & found a green Shadow. Sweet! Same body color and they're cheap!!!:D 3 weeks later, I hit a deer.:bang head The only thing that was any good on the front end was the bumper & the left fender. Then I bought my 94 duster. a semi tractor backed into the left front of that one & only smashed the fender I had a perfect replacement for!!!:thumb: So, having said all that, I'm sick of fenders!!!:bang head I'll avoid pulling them at all costs.
I've gotten fender removal down to 15-20 min per side :p did modify the bumper side slide in mounts so I can pull & twist the bumper out of the way to get to that 1 bolt.

black bumpers rock
 
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