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Discussion Starter #1
I took my '93 Shadow ES V6 5 speed to the dragstrip last Sunday. Great weather, no clouds, mid 70's, some wind blowing. Enough to blow the US flag around pretty good on the flagpole at the starting line. Some runs I had a headwind, some runs I had a crosswind.

Here's the numbers:

60 foots were between 2.35 and 2.44, except for one run (out of 7) where I spun the right tire at the start, past the 60 foot mark while working the gas pedal up and down, and got a heroic 2.74 60 foot time.:thumb:

1/8 mile times were between 10.01 and 10.19, not counting the tire spinning launch run. I wanted to get a 9.99 1/8 mile time so badly, but didn't quite make it.:confused:

1/8 mile speeds were between 70.0 and 70.5, again not counting the tire spinning run, which got me a 69.0 .

1/4 mile times were between 15.57 and 15.76 . The tire spinning run got a 16.42!:eek:

1/4 mile speeds were between 87.6 and 89.2, counting all 7 runs.

The 6 good runs averaged out to 15.68 @ 88.4 mph.

I think the 60 foot times are pretty soft, but wasn't able to improve them.

I tried shifting at different rpms on different runs. 5300, 5500, 5700, 5800. Didn't see a huge gain or loss with any rpm shift point level.

Specs on the car and engine:

3060 pounds racing weight with me, the toolbox, and 1/4 tank of fuel.
74,000 mile 3.0 V6 untouched stock shortblock, mildly ported heads with 5 angle valve job. Fully cleaned lower intake manifold, ported upper intake plenum, 52 mm throttle body, freshly cleaned K&N air filter, stock exhaust manifolds, 2-1/2" exhaust system with Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, and a freshly installed 3" Magnaflow cat. 1993 5 speed manual transmission 3.0 V6 SBEC controller. A pair of reground cams from Crower. They claimed the cams were better than stock, but my degree wheel tests showed around 194 @ 50 and only slightly more advertised duration than stock, although the duration numbers at 0.200 lobe lift and above were significantly better than stock. Base circle was cut 0.027", which = 0.040" extra lash at the valve tip, which the stock lifters were able to handle.

I saw a range of 4-6 degrees variance lobe to lobe in the cams, which is entirely unacceptable to me for cams coming from a big company. But then again my test fixture was not very high tech, although I was careful with my measurements and tried very hard to make sure they were right.

I had a muffler shop make upsize and downsize adapters to fit the 3" cat on the 2-1/2" pipe. I wanted a free flowing large cat so it wouldn't be an exhaust restriction.

According to the Ray Hall Turbocharging website (I typed in "drag racing calculator" on google), For my weight and mph I'm getting 165 wheel hp this way. That's about what I figured the setup would do, somewhere between 160-170 wheel hp.

A week prior to this drag racing day, I had the car at the strip in similar weather with one change - the stock 170,000 mile cat was in the car. It ran 16.0-16.25 @ 85.2 to 86.7 mph. Quite a restriction in the exhaust, costing me about 15 hp! But I fixed that, as you can see.
 

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Nice runs there TIM, but your 60 foot times are what is killing your ET's.
How close are you to Akron, Oh ?
The reason I ask is this; if you would like to come out to Quaker City Dragstrip
or Thompson Raceway I will loan you a set of BFG Drag Radials to try out.
If that doesn't hook your car up I also have a set of slicks.

Let me know
Chuck
 

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Not bad, Tim. Just work on your 60 ft, and you should be able to run 15.2 - 15.3's. That would be with a 2.1 - 2.2 60ft. 15.0 might be possible with some real sticky tires. What do you launch at? I used to launch mine at about 1500 - 1750 RPM.
 

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tires are a key here. with a bg drag radial i was able to get a 2.19 60 foot and a 9.53 1/8th mile time. the one wheel drive is also a huge issue.
 

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k&n filter?

what do you mean by that? drop in k&n panel filter?
That works for TD's but that doesnt work for 3.0's at all.

Or did you do the proper thing and remove the whole factory intake and build a CAI or at least put a cone filter on the throttlebody.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think the part # of the air filter is RU-1770, it's a round filter about 4" in diameter and 6" long, it fits right on the end of the 52mm throttle body. Got it from Summit Racing.

I'd never use a panel filter in the stock airbox, one of the first mods I ever did was to take the stock airbox hose off the throttle body, and that picked up 6-8 hp at the dragstrip right there.

On the starting line, I'd hold the engine between 3000-4000 rpms, and hit the gas and ease out the clutch when it was time to go. It felt like it took off fairly well, but the 60' numbers were 2.3's and 2.4's, which aren't good.

Back when I had my '89 Turbo Spirit with the 2.5 and Mitsu turbo, its 60 foot times were usually between 2.25 and 2.35. The 2.5 made so much bottom end torque that it was VERY easy to spin the tires on the launch. Slicks would have helped, but I didn't have any.
 

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i was just hoping you were not working backwards getting all that work done and then keeping the stock intake.

With those cams I would honestly shift near 6200 rpms (get a 5 speed computer if you dont have one).

How aggressive are your shifts? You should be able to chirp the tires between gears if your clutch is good without powershifting.
Better shifts will help your e.t and traps.

You can also try powershifting but dont try it at the track until you have practiced and perfected it on the street. Every once in awhile try shifting 1st to 2nd keeping the throttle WOT on the street. If you try it at the track you will miss gears. I never tried it at the track in my n/a spirit (well I tried without ever practicing and missed gears) and I dont have the balls to powershift the turbo 3.0 setups yet.
Since then I have practiced over the last 2 years (maybe once a month I try it a couple times) and its just natural now.

Even with quick lifting shifts, you have to practice quickly shifting otherwise when you try to shift really fast at the track, you will do to much thinking and mess it up. It needs to be habit.

A slow powershift will have the engine bouncing off the rev limiter between shifts, a fast powershift will hit the rev limiter once and then the car will leap forward.

With our n/a 3.0 power levels I honestly dont think its going to kill your trans.
 

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More likely to kill the clutch. I shreaded the clutch for my Spirit R/T doing a power shift... A 3" piece of clutch material jambed itself between the disk and pressure plate. During the trip home I learned how to shift without a clutch... :)

Current clutches may be built better than the ones 10 years ago and thus may not suffer this problem...
 

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On the starting line, I'd hold the engine between 3000-4000 rpms, and hit the gas and ease out the clutch when it was time to go. It felt like it took off fairly well, but the 60' numbers were 2.3's and 2.4's, which aren't good.
You shouldn't have to launch that high. This isn't a 4 cylinder. This engine has a low enough torque curve to launch under 2K RPM, and cut some wicked 60ft's. I launched at about 1500 - 1750 rpm, got off the clutch rather quick, and feathered the gas. Even launching that low, if I got on the gas too hard it would spin the hell out of my 225/50/15's w/ 280 treadwear. I cut 2.0 - 2.1 60 fts all day launching like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I do have a 5 speed computer, a 1993 V6 P body SBEC.

The clutch is a TU T3 pressure plate / T2 disc assembly. The flywheel was reground for it. No tire chirping between shifts even at the dragstrip.

I could try launching it at a lower rpm and see what happens.

I think I've got some fairly fast shifts, including the 2-3 shift. I'm not powershifting it, but I think I'm doing pretty good at it. I kept the rpms up between shifts, didn't let it drop down.

Cold air intake down by the fender is on the list of mods to be done. But with winter coming, it'll probably stay on the end of the throttle body until spring. Too much snow and road salt and slushy roads around here in the winter.

Have not unhooked the pcv hose yet either.

One problem I may have is the suspension on the car. The rear shocks are 20,000+ miles old, and my usual trip to work each day is on wavy back country roads that throw me all over the place. Front struts were both put on from another car, and are worn out and are leaking their oil out.
 

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Your times are pretty good. The best I ever got out of my 1990 Daytona was a [email protected] Car was similar weight as yours, but using an A604(I took out the rear seat and the spare tire stuff). 60' was about a 2.2 IIRC. Engine was just basic bolt-ons.

With the exact set-up as that it put down 130hp to the wheels.

As for power shifting...I don't see it making that much time, as said before(and as you already clearly know) the launch is where it's at.

Keep it up!
 

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I do have a 5 speed computer, a 1993 V6 P body SBEC.

The clutch is a TU T3 pressure plate / T2 disc assembly. The flywheel was reground for it. No tire chirping between shifts even at the dragstrip.

I could try launching it at a lower rpm and see what happens.

I think I've got some fairly fast shifts, including the 2-3 shift. I'm not powershifting it, but I think I'm doing pretty good at it. I kept the rpms up between shifts, didn't let it drop down.
I was running a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, clutchnet 6 puck clutch, and T3 Pressure plate. At the track, when shifting to 2nd, I would often spin the tires for a sec (or longer), get a good chirp going to 3rd, and a light chirp shifting to 4th :D . That clutch/PP was soooo much nicer than the stocker. I couldnt believe a N/A 3.0L P body could chirp 4th :)
This is with sticky 225/50/15 tires
 

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get the inatke down in the fender, trust me on that and a msd box and coil.
I have offered many times for somebody to come forward and prove that a the MSD box makes a difference. I will provide the dyne time... So far _nobody_ has taken me up on that or shown any proof (other than assometer).
 

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i always find my 3.0 pulled stronger in high rpm's espically when one broke and i had to wait a month, even one of my buddies who dident drive the car said it pulled better and even sounded diffrent. i would like to see if it makes a diffreence on a the dyno too
 

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i always find my 3.0 pulled stronger in high rpm's espically when one broke and i had to wait a month, even one of my buddies who dident drive the car said it pulled better and even sounded diffrent. i would like to see if it makes a diffreence on a the dyno too
Same here. My spouse even noticed the difference after I installed one. Freeway on-ramps were easier. Oh, and plugs stay cleaner too.

Don't tell Ed I said that. :p
 

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Jesus, that's right on par with a stock Probe GT. Right now, it's faster than what I ran the last time at the track. Good job!

For the record, my car makes 154whp which is good for a low 15/high 14. It's just set on sucking right now. :bang head

Same here. My spouse even noticed the difference after I installed one. Freeway on-ramps were easier. Oh, and plugs stay cleaner too.

Don't tell Ed I said that. :p
I was driving my Spirit last night and I found right around 3500+ it'd just break traction in the rain. I was havin' a ball!
 
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