I recently just purchased a DRB II that was missing the cable to connect to the under hood connector. Miller Specialty Tools reports that the cable, CC2000, is discontinued. Rather than endlessly search for one, I'd much rather build one. I have an extra SCI cable from my Actron 9145 scanner that I can use to assist me in building this cable. All I need now is the pin-outs of cable end of the DRB II. Can anyone help?
DRB II Help--Making the SCI Cable, Need Pinouts
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Thanks NAJ, I just downloaded the DRB III manual and the pinouts were listed in there. I was wondering what pin 5 (Dark Blue) did and your picture helped. Thanks NAJ. Below is a summary of my findings. Also note pin 5 on the SCI is the Switched Ignition.
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I just tried making the airbag diagnostic cable for the DRB II and failed. The pinouts that I have for the BUS connector seem to differ from that of the earlier Airbag Diagnostic Connector, although physically they are the same connector. Does anyone have the pinouts for the Airbag Diagnostic Connector? Preferably for a 1990 Dodge Omni or any 1989 and prior vehicle with an airbag? Its this connector:
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check ebay, i've seen the cables there in the past.
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5,336 Posts
Brian, did you ever get an air bag diagnostic cable?
Also, could you circle or what ever method you want. Would you mark which pin is the light green?
Thanks,
Dennis
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread here.
I'm in a very similar situation and could use some advise.
I purchased a DRB-II off ebay and it doesn't have the SCI 6-way (engine diagnostic cable).
I've ordered some parts, an OTC Part # 3305-72 and OTC Part # 212635 its meant for the OTC scan tool but otherwise they combine to make up most of the original DRB-II cable. And I ordered a DB25 terminal block, and the DIN 8 PIN MALE Part # CP-1080-ND - CONN, it comes with tinned wires at the end of a cord to the connector.
My intent is to use the DIN 8 connector to connect to the DBR-II, then wire its ends through the DB25 terminal block to map the pins to OTC DB-25 and from there to the power connector and the SCI connector.
But I've run a small test just to see if I might be wasting a lot of time.
I connected an auto battery +12v to pin 1 and GND to pin 8 of the DRB-II connector.
After a bit of time the display faded on to display just black blocks on first and third row.
If I removed power it immediately blanked.
Reconnecting it seemed to have charged a capacitor and faded on quicker.
I checked the voltage to pin 1 and gnd of the display and it appears in the right range, slightly less than +5 volts.
But I don't know what to expect from the DRB-II when its not actually connected to a vehicle.
I assumed it would go into some kind of test mode searching for the PCM and when it didn't find any return to displaying internal diagnostics about the DRB-II itself or offer up a menu to choose the vehicle. The DRB-II came with a yellow SuperCartridge.
But the DRB-II never displays an actual character.. just a fully on black character block, two rows of them.
I believe the display is actually four rows of characters based on looking at YouTube and some of the pictures posted here.
My hopes are pretty low right now.. I just don't know what to expect.
I'm proceeding with building the diagnostic cable as described in the thread and above, and I'll keep looking for the actual DRB-II SCI cable on eBay.. but it looks like the DRB-IIs are pretty much all gone or sold off to whomever will keep them.
My purpose is to help diagnose my dads old truck, 1989 Dodge D250 with EFI. I'd like to use the DRB-II to check the sensors and help me with a problem that might be a bad tranny or just a bunch of bad sensors. Its really hard building confidence changing out one sensor after the other 'guessing'. It sure would be nice to actually see their status and run actuation tests on them.
My dad's gone now, he passed away about six years ago. But I really want to get his darned truck fixed.
Anyhow
I could use some advise or any suggestions you might have.
Thanks for reading.
I'm in a very similar situation and could use some advise.
I purchased a DRB-II off ebay and it doesn't have the SCI 6-way (engine diagnostic cable).
I've ordered some parts, an OTC Part # 3305-72 and OTC Part # 212635 its meant for the OTC scan tool but otherwise they combine to make up most of the original DRB-II cable. And I ordered a DB25 terminal block, and the DIN 8 PIN MALE Part # CP-1080-ND - CONN, it comes with tinned wires at the end of a cord to the connector.
My intent is to use the DIN 8 connector to connect to the DBR-II, then wire its ends through the DB25 terminal block to map the pins to OTC DB-25 and from there to the power connector and the SCI connector.
But I've run a small test just to see if I might be wasting a lot of time.
I connected an auto battery +12v to pin 1 and GND to pin 8 of the DRB-II connector.
After a bit of time the display faded on to display just black blocks on first and third row.
If I removed power it immediately blanked.
Reconnecting it seemed to have charged a capacitor and faded on quicker.
I checked the voltage to pin 1 and gnd of the display and it appears in the right range, slightly less than +5 volts.
But I don't know what to expect from the DRB-II when its not actually connected to a vehicle.
I assumed it would go into some kind of test mode searching for the PCM and when it didn't find any return to displaying internal diagnostics about the DRB-II itself or offer up a menu to choose the vehicle. The DRB-II came with a yellow SuperCartridge.
But the DRB-II never displays an actual character.. just a fully on black character block, two rows of them.
I believe the display is actually four rows of characters based on looking at YouTube and some of the pictures posted here.
My hopes are pretty low right now.. I just don't know what to expect.
I'm proceeding with building the diagnostic cable as described in the thread and above, and I'll keep looking for the actual DRB-II SCI cable on eBay.. but it looks like the DRB-IIs are pretty much all gone or sold off to whomever will keep them.
My purpose is to help diagnose my dads old truck, 1989 Dodge D250 with EFI. I'd like to use the DRB-II to check the sensors and help me with a problem that might be a bad tranny or just a bunch of bad sensors. Its really hard building confidence changing out one sensor after the other 'guessing'. It sure would be nice to actually see their status and run actuation tests on them.
My dad's gone now, he passed away about six years ago. But I really want to get his darned truck fixed.
Anyhow
I could use some advise or any suggestions you might have.
Thanks for reading.
Joined
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26,535 Posts
Welcome To TD!!!
Unfortunately I cannot help you with the DRB issue and I do not have any wiring or specs for your D250 but...
The systems all operate the same way so what exactly are the issues with this truck that you need/want to diagnose?
Somebody here may have the info you need.
In the meantime if this is a cranks but will not start or other driveabilty issue...
First thing you want to do is be absolutely sure the...
1)Battery is Good and Fully Charged.
2)Spark Plugs are not Fuel Fouled.
3)There are no stored fault codes.
If the battery has been disconnected or went dead crank the engine 7-10 seconds then check for any fault codes.
4)If there are no stored fault codes then before you start digging into the computer control systems be sure all of your basics are correct.
1)Engine Mechanical(Compression, Cam Timing,yes its a chain)
2)Ignition System(minimum of 25 KV at each plug, plugs are not worn/fouled)
3)Fuel System(Fuel Pressure, Quality of Fuel if the vehicle has been sitting)
4)Injector Pulse
5)Vacuum System and Vacuum to Map Sensor.
6)Air Intake or Exhaust Restrictions
Sensor specs such as the Map/TPS should be the same as the 2.2L/2.5L/3.0L engines.
CHECKING MAP CALIBRATION
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/344296-code-13-diagnostics.html
CHECKING TPS
1)Backprobe the Signal and Signal Return Lines at the TPS connector with a digital voltmeter.
2)At closed throttle voltage should read .30-.90 volts.
(If closed throttle voltage is above 2.50 volts the controller will think the engine is flooded and will shut down the injectors)
3)Slowly sweep the throttle open watching voltage, it should rise steadily and consistently with no voltage drops or spikes.
4)WOT voltage needs to be above 3.50 volts.
Unfortunately I cannot help you with the DRB issue and I do not have any wiring or specs for your D250 but...
The systems all operate the same way so what exactly are the issues with this truck that you need/want to diagnose?
Somebody here may have the info you need.
In the meantime if this is a cranks but will not start or other driveabilty issue...
First thing you want to do is be absolutely sure the...
1)Battery is Good and Fully Charged.
2)Spark Plugs are not Fuel Fouled.
3)There are no stored fault codes.
If the battery has been disconnected or went dead crank the engine 7-10 seconds then check for any fault codes.
4)If there are no stored fault codes then before you start digging into the computer control systems be sure all of your basics are correct.
1)Engine Mechanical(Compression, Cam Timing,yes its a chain)
2)Ignition System(minimum of 25 KV at each plug, plugs are not worn/fouled)
3)Fuel System(Fuel Pressure, Quality of Fuel if the vehicle has been sitting)
4)Injector Pulse
5)Vacuum System and Vacuum to Map Sensor.
6)Air Intake or Exhaust Restrictions
Sensor specs such as the Map/TPS should be the same as the 2.2L/2.5L/3.0L engines.
CHECKING MAP CALIBRATION
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/344296-code-13-diagnostics.html
CHECKING TPS
1)Backprobe the Signal and Signal Return Lines at the TPS connector with a digital voltmeter.
2)At closed throttle voltage should read .30-.90 volts.
(If closed throttle voltage is above 2.50 volts the controller will think the engine is flooded and will shut down the injectors)
3)Slowly sweep the throttle open watching voltage, it should rise steadily and consistently with no voltage drops or spikes.
4)WOT voltage needs to be above 3.50 volts.
Thanks
This is a very long term project for me.
I've acquired the Mopar Service Manuals and Parts Guides for the D250.
Considered much of what you suggest and acquired an Optima RedTop Battery and the Optima 1200 AGM charger and maintainer for it. So I'm pretty sure its not the battery, it is brand new and I'm keeping it charged in a cool dry place outside of the truck when I'm not working on it.
I removed the fuel line from the fuel pump after trying to crank it a bit and had no fuel pressure. Since trying some start fluid does turn the engine over until it burns through the fluid. I'm fairly over confident the fuel pump has to be replaced.
I did some research and got a Walbro 515 and Gates Submersible Fuel Lines to replace the hose from the pump to the fuel port and the fuel return inside the fuel module.
Then I watched several videos on YouTube regarding how to remove fuel line fittings without breaking the lines off. And how to remove and clean the fuel tank. After that I looked into jack stands and a floor jack and a siphon for removing the fuel in the tank and acquired those.
Its been raining a lot this season so I've been waiting for a break on a weekend to give it a try at raising the D250, dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump.
Then I should be in a position to start debugging the original problems that lead to it sitting for so long. Those were, my Dad thought the tranny had a small leak and kept adding tranfluid.. I think he may have over done it a bit and lead to tranfluid foam which led to very hard shifting or no shifting. The speed sensor and the map sensors would be next on my list.. but also checking the fuel pressure regulator for leaks. O2 sensor or EGR valve could be causing tranny problems through the SMEC. And with all this going on and the age of the vehicle.. a partially plugged catalytic converter is a real possibility. And the injectors (all two of them) might be worn out.
It really feels like I don't know anything and I'll be doing a lot one step at a time in hopes of solving the problem, but if its a combination of problems.. I was (just) really hoping the DRB could have saved me some time.
The parts for the homespun OTC engine diagnostic cable for the DRB should be here in a week or two.. so I'm not totally giving up on it. But I'm thinking it doesn't look good.
Thanks for the help and the warm welcome.
This is a very long term project for me.
I've acquired the Mopar Service Manuals and Parts Guides for the D250.
Considered much of what you suggest and acquired an Optima RedTop Battery and the Optima 1200 AGM charger and maintainer for it. So I'm pretty sure its not the battery, it is brand new and I'm keeping it charged in a cool dry place outside of the truck when I'm not working on it.
I removed the fuel line from the fuel pump after trying to crank it a bit and had no fuel pressure. Since trying some start fluid does turn the engine over until it burns through the fluid. I'm fairly over confident the fuel pump has to be replaced.
I did some research and got a Walbro 515 and Gates Submersible Fuel Lines to replace the hose from the pump to the fuel port and the fuel return inside the fuel module.
Then I watched several videos on YouTube regarding how to remove fuel line fittings without breaking the lines off. And how to remove and clean the fuel tank. After that I looked into jack stands and a floor jack and a siphon for removing the fuel in the tank and acquired those.
Its been raining a lot this season so I've been waiting for a break on a weekend to give it a try at raising the D250, dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump.
Then I should be in a position to start debugging the original problems that lead to it sitting for so long. Those were, my Dad thought the tranny had a small leak and kept adding tranfluid.. I think he may have over done it a bit and lead to tranfluid foam which led to very hard shifting or no shifting. The speed sensor and the map sensors would be next on my list.. but also checking the fuel pressure regulator for leaks. O2 sensor or EGR valve could be causing tranny problems through the SMEC. And with all this going on and the age of the vehicle.. a partially plugged catalytic converter is a real possibility. And the injectors (all two of them) might be worn out.
It really feels like I don't know anything and I'll be doing a lot one step at a time in hopes of solving the problem, but if its a combination of problems.. I was (just) really hoping the DRB could have saved me some time.
The parts for the homespun OTC engine diagnostic cable for the DRB should be here in a week or two.. so I'm not totally giving up on it. But I'm thinking it doesn't look good.
Thanks for the help and the warm welcome.
Joined
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26,535 Posts
No fuel pressure could be a faulty pump or another issue,so just some info...
Since it is a Chrysler EFI system it uses an ASD(Automatic Shutdown) Relay to power the fuel pump, + coil and injectors.
The ASD relay is actuated for 1 second with initial key on to pressurize the fuel rail.
After that it will not be actuated again until the controller see's a crank/rpm signal either from the distributor pickup or a crank sensor.
I would "assume" that an 89 D250 would be the same as the FWD Chryslers and you can manually actuate the ASD relay to check its circuit and wiring.
(you can use actuator test mode with your DRB2 once you get the proper cables)
The DRB can save you time allowing you to actuate systems and get a quick look at sensor values and fault codes.
It is also needed to run many of Chryslers diagnostic flow charts.
Since it is a Chrysler EFI system it uses an ASD(Automatic Shutdown) Relay to power the fuel pump, + coil and injectors.
The ASD relay is actuated for 1 second with initial key on to pressurize the fuel rail.
After that it will not be actuated again until the controller see's a crank/rpm signal either from the distributor pickup or a crank sensor.
I would "assume" that an 89 D250 would be the same as the FWD Chryslers and you can manually actuate the ASD relay to check its circuit and wiring.
(you can use actuator test mode with your DRB2 once you get the proper cables)
The DRB can save you time allowing you to actuate systems and get a quick look at sensor values and fault codes.
It is also needed to run many of Chryslers diagnostic flow charts.
So I completed the new cable, up to the point where I could test the DRB-II and apply power. It works!
I was shocked given its got to be over 26 years old.
I made a YouTube video of it starting up when its not connected to a vehicle. In case someone else tries to do the same and they'd like to know what to expect.
I'd be happy to post a link, but the forum says I still need 5 posts before I can do that.
I named the video DRB-II it should show up in a search.
- John
You can post the link as 'plain text', letters & numbers without using the special shortcut icons above the posting windows....
Or you could post a couple of more times with just some stuff like....
"just posting to get to #3"
"just posting to get to #4"
"just posting to get to #5"
"just posting to get to #6"
then post the link normally--I'm sure if you are a good citizen of the forum, no one will complain.
Welcome to the contributing portion to the forum, and to the list in general.
Good Luck
Or you could post a couple of more times with just some stuff like....
"just posting to get to #3"
"just posting to get to #4"
"just posting to get to #5"
"just posting to get to #6"
then post the link normally--I'm sure if you are a good citizen of the forum, no one will complain.
Welcome to the contributing portion to the forum, and to the list in general.
Good Luck
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