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Discussion Starter #1
So I put a different wiring harness in my spirit to fix a TPS problem. It fixed that problem.


Then I found out the wipers only work on "high"

Low and all the intermittent settings just make a clicking sound in the little black box behind the drivers kick panel (1994). 6 wires go to there.

Drivers headlight also does not work for low beam but the highbeam works. I tried swapping bulbs and it make no difference.
Checked fuses.

The factory wiring diagram is not very helpful because it doesnt show where the power wire splits from being a single source to going to two different headlights. Or I am just blind.

I dont really think these are related problems but maybe they are.
 

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The "box" behind the kickpanel is the Body Control Module and controls all intermittant wiper featues.
I am assuming you have a column mounted multi-function switch.
What vehicle did the wiring harness come from so I can check for differences to help isolate your problem.
On a 94 spirit there are seperate fuses for left and right headlamps.
Fuse #4 (10 amp) is for the R/S headlamp and foglamps(if equipped)
Fuse #5 (4 amp) is for the L/S headlamp.
Fuse #15 (20 Amp) is for the headlamp switch.
I have exterior lighting circuit wiring for this vehicle and they are not showing the headlamps. (DUH!!!! How stupid is that!!!!)(Mitchell on Demand, not Chrysler)
Obviously this is a power problem or the high beam would not operate.The spirit uses Halogen bulbs and not a sealed beam,correct?
What are the wire colors at the connector?
What color is the wire for the low beam? I may be able to dig something up to help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It came from a 93-94ish AA body lebaron.

1994 spirit has multifunction switch.
When I turn the intermittent wipers on I can hear the box clicking (have things torn apart so I can put my ear right next to it. Unplug the box and of course no more clicks. ONly 6 wires go into the box.
What someone told me is that the high setting just sents 12v to the wipers (probably) so it ignores the body control module most likely.

Halogen bulbs.

I dont even know if voltage is getting to the fuse for the driver headlight. If I pull the passenger fuse the passenger headlight goes out of course, and When I put it back in I get a nice happy spark. I dont know if the passenger headlight did this.

The difference I have seen in this wiring harness is that my car is a base model so it doesnt have a hookup for the windsheild wiper fuild level checker but my new harness has one.

I will try to do a little bit of wire tracing tonight. I got some batteries for my ohmeters last night too :D

I am also wondering what has made my tachometer bouncy. I like to beleive there is a common problem but its not likely.
Everything happened when i swapped in this new harness. At least my TPS problem went away.

I am also going to try adding more ground wire from the battery because I think there might be a problem with how its set up (wasnt long enough so I bolted another of the same type of wire together and then to the block). Engine still runs fine though so I dont understand why that would matter.
Plus, the highbeams and high speed wipers work so I dont think grounds are the problem when the highest voltage functions work fine.
 

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I do not think grounds are your problem either.
On the headlamps use a test light and be sure there is power in and out of the fuses before we go further so we can determine which side of the bulkhead connector the problem is on.
I need to know the wire colors at the headlamp connector so i can look for wiring that is similar.
I will look into the wipers and BCM and post back.
 

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My son is printing me out wiring for the headlamp and wiper circuits from Mitchell and I should have them sometime tonight. As soon as I get them and look them over I will post back.
 

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Does your vehicle have a lamp outage module?
 

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According to the wiring provided to me the 94 Spirit there are 2 seperate wires out of the fuse block for the left and right headlamps.The high beam power is direct from the optical horn and headlamp dimmer switch on the steering column.The low beams run thru fuse # 3 (VIO/RD wire)which is low beam power for the right headlamp and fuse #4(VIO wire)is power for the left lowbeam.If the vehicle is equipped with a lamp outage module(R/S of instrument panel) the wires run from the fuse block to the module and then to the headlamps.W/O a lamp outage module the wire runs direct to the headlamp.They are not showing the bulkhead connector.You problem is in the VIO wire,start at the fuse block be sure you have power in and out and trace the VIO wire to the LOM or bulkhead connector and check for power at all points. Since you changed wiring harness's my guess is the wiring is in different locations from the original harness.
Your vehicle does not use a BCM,it does use an intermittant wiper control module which is what you hear clicking.High is a direct feed and all other wiper functions are thru the intermittant wiper module. Again since your problems occured after swapping your harness I think you will find that wire location at the bulkhead connector are different.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I finally got done with my exams and just now tested the fuse box.

Strange to me that the wiper fuse runs -11.56 or whatever for all intermitant settings except Low. Which reads 0.00. High reads the same -11.56. I dont understand why low says nothing.

Checked the fuses for the headlights and just like I thought, the left headlamp fuse has NO voltage. I thought so because when i had tried removing fuses with the lights on a week or so ago, the right side fuse sparked when I put it back in and the left did not.

I dont know where this data puts me. If its a wiring harness compatibility problem Im guessing something really NOT obvious is wrong. i have to take the car home in a few weeks (950+ miles) so i want to avoid taking the car to the dealer.
 

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You need the bulkhead connector pinouts with wire location for the 2 vehicles to check for differences.
The public library has Mitchell manuals,they do not throw anything out,they put books in storage so you would have to ask.If they have them you can make copies of the pages.
Or if you know someone in the trade they probably have Alldata or Mitchell on Demand and you can get them that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I dont even know what a mitchell manual is....

I have the factory service manuals.
The 50 way connector says the violet is left headlight and violet/red is right headlight.

The violet/red has resistance when i touch it and ground of about 0.6 ohms

the violet reads nothing when i try this.

I still want to know whats going on with my wiring harness when I push on the wiring that goes through the firewall. Obviously something is very wrong in that video. Im 100% sure thats what my funny tach problems before were caused by.
 

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If you have the factory service manual for wiring you have to locate a pin out of the bulkhead connector and it will list all of the circuits and which cavity they corrospond to.
Mitchell writes service manuals for the profession service trade and they are much better than Chilton.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I think the wiring harness is actually a perfect match.

I lost both headlights today, marker lamps/turn signals, speedo, and the tach is doing the samew crap.

Pushing around the wiring harness with my foot would make one of the marker lamps turn on and sometimes the speedo/tach.l

So I would say that somewhere in the harness the wires are broken and touching

Thats my guess. Im guessing the work to repair it would be greater then the cost of another harness.
 

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I have been watching this thread for a while now. Most of my career I have done more electrical work then anything else. It is very unlikly a wire is broken in the harness unless another wire burned in the harness and melted that other wire. I have found that more then likley the problem will be found where a harness plug has been disconnected then plugged back up. Start by unplugging any plug you have had apart and look for pushed back pins or corrosion. If you know what harness you move to get things to happen stick your head under the dash and start shaking things slowly one harness at a time. shaking a good harness violantly can cause movemant in the problem one and make you think that is the one. small movement will help narrow it down.
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Its the main harness for the entire 50 way connector. its just 1 big wiring bundle.

All I could find were 3 speed harnesses at the junkyard which have some different speed sensors so I dont really want to install the one I got for 17 bucks.
 

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When you pull down on the fuse box, the wire harness is twisting. It is probably just enough to cause the break to open. Since none of the wires to the 50 pin are for the fan, I would venture a guess and say its the ground circuit running through that bundle. Its the only thing I can find in common with all of the circuits. There is a "panel ground" behind the left cowl trim panel. I would start there and work my way through the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah so I feel dumb about this. I had a dream a week ago or so that it was the 50 way connector..........and well I decided to go hide in my car during the snow storm tonight and mess with it (drivers seat back and laid down). I was wiggling things and listening for the fan to turn off. Ends up that when I was messing with the fuse box the 50 way connector was misbehaving. I started messing with the 50 way connector (pulling and pushing) and decided that it wasnt screwed in all they way.

So 8 turns and all my problems are gone (well the lights and blinkers). Im assuming the intermittent wipers work but the windshield is covered in snow so I dont want to turn them on.
 
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