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Ive hear alot of bad things about the ebay turbos. including blowing apart and seals poping rather quickly. other forums Im on warn you not to buy these unless you plan on buying several so you can replace them a couple times a year lol.
 

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No one that has any input on them has actually bought and used one themselves. Even a brand new garrett turbo can be blown by an incompetent installation.

Just buy it and see what happens, its only $100.
 

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I bought and installed one of these from a different seller on ebay onto my 87 Pacifica. My motor is fresh so Im running NO boost on it at the moment. Like it says above it's only a $100 ($150 for mine) so why not try it. So far so good on mine, however a bit of modification was required to make it fit. See pages #8 and #9 on my cardomain site: turbot11's 1987 Dodge Daytona on CarDomain - Page 8
I think these are probably made in China or somewhere in the orient and thus why they're so cheap. They're not water cooled but the oil return does line up for the most part with the tube in the back of our blocks. I'm happy with mine so far, it actually spins at idle and thats with the 2.25" swingvalve and exhaust. As I get more run time on the new engine I'll be turning up the boost gradually. If it turns out to be a big piece of crap I'll post it here, hopefully it doesn't.
 

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I've heard those cheap turbos do not use inconel on the turbine wheels. If you get the turbo hot enough the inducer blades will stretch and contact the turbine housing. This probably won't happen until you get it hot enough several times.

Andy
 

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Years ago I saw a link to a turbo Volkswagen site where one of these fell apart--literally. The compressor housing was 2-piece and glued together or something similar to that nature. I can't remember the details.

There is a reason it is that cheap. Like a pair of Rayban sunglasses from Lenscrafters--GARBAGE!
 

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I do not have a more recent example because I got out of cutting such corners years ago because I got sick of having to do everything two or three times at an overall higher cost to achieve the same result as spending the extra buck doing it right the first time and not having to go back in and do it over again.

The valves for my cylinder head were $20 a piece I think. Why spend that much when you can get some China ones for $5 each? You can spend less money by going to Lenscrafters for "the same" polycarbonate lenses that an ophthalmology practice will sell only to have their coatings disintegrate in a couple of months, have the cylinder power off 10 degrees, optical centers too wide, etc. But yet some are happy with the product and have no problems. It is inconsistent quality control that'll get ya, while it works perfectly for others.
 

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Hey Detobias, so far so good!! I was driving the Daytona a bit this summer and was running about 15lbs on it with no problems other than blowing the occasional IC hose. When I was driving it regularly the turbo had no issues, no failures of any kind. The only problem was that with the smaller exhaust( stock swingvalve modified to fit the JDM) lag time was about 4-5 seconds. But once the turbo got going it became very impressive very quickly. I've had a few TD's but this is the first one to have something other than a stock turbo. At 14lbs there is no comparison to the same lbs on a stock Garrett. The Daytona has been down for a couple months while I try to fabricate a 3'' exhaust front pipe when I get time to work on it, which has been a nightmare. My biggest complaint with the ebay turbos is while there are a great bargin there is a lot of modifying to be done to put them on our cars. Case and point is trying to upgrade to a bigger exhaust. I could not find a swingvalve that would work so I attempted to make a flange, cut and weld a prebent 3" pipe, and figure out a way to route a 1 1/2" pipe to run a external wastegate. After all that didnt work I have grafted a 3" pipe onto the stock swingvalve. Took it out today with open pipe dumping straight on the ground and to my dismay lag was only reduced to 3-4 seconds from 4-5 with the 2 1/4" exhaust. All in all though I am very happy with the JDM's performance at 15lbs the Daytona is a little rocket ship! And thats with stock fuel system no 5th injector yet. I will post pics on my cardomain site: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2528892 in the next week or so everyone can see what I have done to make a 3" work on the JDM, and since I'm a glutton for punishment the mess i crated out of 3" pipe, 3/16" steel and 1 1/2" tube
 

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has anyone seen any more of these for sale lately? Also do they have the chrysler flange already on them?? I'd be interested in trying one out just to see how it performs;)
 

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Hello All,

We have seen a lot of these come through the shop. Here is what we would say about them:

1. You have a 50/50 chance of one not leaking, so if you do get one do as the write up says and replace the seals, and it is a good idea to replace the thrust bearing

2. Most of them are not balanced very well, so spend the extra and have it balanced before you install it

3. Make sure and loctite the lock nut when you put it all back together, we have seen the nut come off of these several times ruining the turbo.

4. The metal in most of these are not real good quality, but we have seen them going for a few years after the above was addressed. So, we really do not know what kind of effect this would have in the long run.

If you follow these steps then you will have a turbo that can last a long time, if you just bolt it on you are taking a chance, but it works sometimes. We could not sell these in the shop due to point #1 and warranty concerns, but if you wanted to try one yourself they can work, with some work. We hope this helps you all, let us know if you have any other questions. Thank you,
 
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