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CTS = ?
MAP = won't exist on this setup.
VSS = probably not there
AIS = Air Idle Sensor? Probably not there.
TPS = probably not there...

Kinda almost makes a guy wonder how it runs lol.

Our assumption is they just had it setup to run in limp mode but that seems odd.
 

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You never use a switch/toggle to control power to anything, the switches/toggle will live a very short life controlling power, (ask my Son when he asked me why his switch/toggle kept burning up when he wired to manually control the cooling fan at the track) you always control the ground side.
That cannot be done for the coil and fuel pump since power has to be constant and there is no ground to control, the fuel pump uses an external body ground and the coil is duty cycled.
You can send power to the + coil and fuel pump from the ignition switch so power is only present with the Key On (I would also fuse those additional circuits) and you could run two wires from a toggle to the rear of the car and control the fuel pump ground that way eliminating the body ground.

Besides wouldn't you really want the safety feature of the ASD in a Race Car since it is available to you?

And again, without the SMEC seeing a crank/rpm signal from the HEP, will you have any spark advance?
0 spark advance = no power.
Without connecting a scanner and viewing Data you will never know.
 

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CTS - Coolant Temp Sensor
Without MAP to show engine load to the SMEC you will have 0 spark advance and will be in failure mode all of the time.

Just because you cut the wires to the SMEC does not mean the SMEC is not looking for the input data, when kids cover their face and say "you can't see me" we really can, cutting wires does not make the SMEC say, "oh I guess I do not need them, I will just ignore it then", it is going to continue doing what it is programmed to do.

Unless you are willing to give the SMEC all of the info it requires you are "spitting into the wind" with this setup.
You should either go with a carburated distributor and low pressure inline fuel pump or get rid of the carb and go fuel injected.
 

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As per
CTS = ?
MAP = won't exist on this setup.
VSS = probably not there
AIS = Air Idle Sensor? Probably not there.
TPS = probably not there...

Kinda almost makes a guy wonder how it runs lol.

Our assumption is they just had it setup to run in limp mode but that seems odd.
AIS = Automatic Idle Speed

And again...
Without an input from the TPS the SMEC will set a Hard Fault (CODE 24 TPS Circuit Voltage Low) and go into failure.
Failure/Limp Mode = 0 degrees Spark Advance, 0 Degrees Spark Advance = 0 Power, if that is what you are looking for in your Daily Driver or Race car then you are headed in the right direction.
 

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Hmmm...

Master kill switches are big switches that can run a ton of power through them. If the switch is burning out means the switches being used are too light duty. Pretty sure on a number of race cars the team I'm on runs it all hot from master kill switch to all the other switches. Rad fan is big power too.

I'm sure we control the hot side of the fuel pumps for sure. I can double check later too.

Gonna be out at the race car garage later today.

I'm not too concerned with the ASD relay safety feature. If you crash, one motion you kill the master kill switch to everything. That's designed to be within arms reach easy.

Getting the SMEC to see the right data and properly control the 11 pin(coil negative) is going to be the big challenge here.

----------
almost should rewire this whole thing to clean it up.
 

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As per


AIS = Automatic Idle Speed

And again...
Without an input from the TPS the SMEC will set a Hard Fault (CODE 24 TPS Circuit Voltage Low) and go into failure.
Failure/Limp Mode = 0 degrees Spark Advance, 0 Degrees Spark Advance = 0 Power, if that is what you are looking for in your Daily Driver or Race car then you are headed in the right direction.
This is most likely what they did then. Seems odd though. Makes me wonder what would need to be done to eliminate the SMEC and run it more like a proper old fashioned carb type car.

Engine has lightened flywheel, hot cam. It ran decent at the circle track when I ran it.

 

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^^^^ I'm gonna have to take another read. Seems mildly complicated and I'd have to get more parts i think.

Tracing and testing wires. Pin 4 on the 60 pin was previously cut. Got it fixed up and nicely reconnected.

Seemed like that caused the car to actually attempt to fire but it didn't seem to last long. That was a couple days ago.

I'm assuming pins 7/8/9 were for cruise control? Cause they don't exist.

Pin 10 was testing flaky back to the fuse box. Tightened up the square connector that goes to the firewall. Seems better now.

Tried firing again just in case that was the problem pin 10 is "ignition run feed" so probably not active until the engine gets running and key comes back to run position right?

Voltmetered the coil while cranking. It drops awful low in my opinion. Down to 4v. That can't be right can it?
 

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Now all you have to do is figure out why you do not have 12 volts to the + coil terminal and I assume the fuel pump also.
 

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Yeah, spark was first issue. Gas was gonna be second.

I think I'll finish tracing all the wires on the 60 Pin connector just to see exactly what this thing is setup for. I know a bunch of pins weren't used and a bunch were cut so I'll see.

I'm not sure what they've done. Maybe they set the cam a tooth forwards or back so that when it's running in the limp mode it's actually optimal timing at higher RPM. Maybe set the crank out a tooth on the belt?

4105782 is the part number of the head...
 

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How hard would it be to just set this up without electronics? Make it old carb style setup? And how much power would I be giving up without electronic spark advance? surveyzop
 
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