I was given an 89 Dodge raider 4x4 3.0 6cyl. 5 speed tranny with a 6g72 engine. Everything is mint inside and out except for missing heads. I figured I'd just replace the whole engine not knowing what happened to it. So I'm wondering what engines can I drop right in and is the 6g72 turbo a possibility or is it to much work? I'm looking for a 7 on a scale 1-10 for easiness of install. Go easy I'm a girl and this is my biggest project to date! Thanks everyone in advance!
Engine for my 89 Dodge raider 4x4 3.0 5 speed?
- Status
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Seeing as how its a SOHC 6g72 and she's asking for a direct bolt in then go with just that. You can pull the rest of the engine out. Depending on where you're at 3.0s are usually pretty easy to come across in a jy. Does the rotating assembly spin freely? There was a guy who supercharged a montero/raider and it was a cool vehicle IMO. What are the goals for it?
Joined
·
5,905 Posts
O'man is that sweet! Thanks for sharing pics!![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Here that engine is not so easy to come by at the jy If you even say raider they sh*t all over you, so I was gonna just get a reman. If I did do the TT6g72 what would that entale will I have to change anything else. I can have new mounts put in I just dont want to much work I wanna drive it before the end of summer. I was told a while ago there is another engine thats a direct bolt in but I dont remember what it is. Also do you know what years of the sohc 6g72 will fit in my 89. and if I did do the TT6g72 is there anything I need to worry about because it is 4x4 or is it not a factor? Thanks
Joined
·
577 Posts
Well the Twin Turbo motor is in cars were the engine is horizontally mounted. So engine mounts could be an issue. The electronics for the truck would definitely have to be changed to something like megasquirt, (Which is a engine computer that is totaly customizable.) or cutting out some of the factory wiring harness to splice in the wiring from a Stealth or 3000gt which would mean obtaining a parts car. Also the turbo manifolds would have to be changed or custom fabbed. I dont know of any manifolds made for Longitudinal mounting this engine. The TT motor should bolt to the factory trans, but the factory hp numbers for the TT are right at 300 hp so who knows if the trans or 4X4 can handle that power. And the supercharger can be even more tricky than the TT. I think your best bet is to buy a reman SOHC 3.0 and put that in and just be done with it. But im not totally clear on what years Ram 50 and Raiders use the same SOHC 3.0.
They did come with NA four cylinders also, whether they were Dodge 4 bangers or Mitsu 4 bangers im not sure.
They did come with NA four cylinders also, whether they were Dodge 4 bangers or Mitsu 4 bangers im not sure.
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Later montero's got the 3.5 so that could be an option. Not too sure. Swapping in a TT 6g72 is doable but man...it'd be a headache as far as electronics, motor mounts etc.
Joined
·
5,905 Posts
I look at it like this if the guys in the 70's could get a 426 hemi under the hood of a colt then we can get a TT 6G72 into our cars!!! it may cost am arm and a leg but we CAN do it!!!LOL
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
Well anything is doable with money and ability. It sounds like she wants to go with a fairly straightforward route though. Swapping a TT 6g72 isn't really straight forward. If a swap is in order maybe go with a 4.3 GM vortec motor. Apparently alot of guys have done that before and 4.3's were made for alot of years and put into multiple vehicles. Again....still don't really know what the specific goals are for this exactly.
This is from Allpar:
Swaps with Mitsubishi trucks (Neal Sandstede)
I used information from your site to repair my 1993 Mighty Max (also sold as the Dodge D50) 5-speed manual, 4WD truck. The truck had 185k miles and showed smoke so it wouldn’t pass the Colorado emissions test. I pulled a 3.0L from a 1989 Plymouth van with 105K, missing the water pump and front plastic covers. Even though it was a cross-fit engine it looked the same. The oil filter was in the wrong place so I found that the left motor mount of the Mits engine would cover the filter attachment boss on the Chrysler and used the original Mits oil pump. Using a handmade gasket between the mount steel and the block, oil flows correctly and there are no leaks. The bolt holes for the Mitsu mount align with the Chrysler filter attachment boss holes, but you have to trim the motor mount some to get the dipstick to fit. Interestingly, the flywheel fits the Chrysler version and the transmission input shaft carry bearing (idler bearing) is integral with the flywheel so no problem existed there.
At first I used the cast cam sprockets from the Mitsu but found that somehow the Mitsu sprockets are not centered on the Chrysler cams. The cam drive belt would alternate between too tight and too loose and made a repetitious noise like one or more of the lifters was faulty. I finally found the problem after using a stethoscope and noting that the noise was accompanied by a movement in the heater supply hose! I changed to the stamped Chrysler cam sprockets and eliminated the problem. It was difficult to comprehend how the timing belt survived this torture but it seems to be fine.
I used the Mitsu injectors and plenum, distributor, starter and motor mounts. The oil dipstick ended up being on the driver side instead of as in the Mitsu on the passenger side.
The truck seems to have a little more power, gets a little better fuel economy and passes emissions. I can easily accelerate from 30 mph in 5th , the truck will go over 100 mph (if you are brave enough to keep it up) and get about 27 mpg in mixed, but mostly highway driving.
Salvage yards wanted over $900 for a rear-drive engine from a Montero and I got the Chrysler engine for less than $100.
Some other comments:
The engine is a zero-interference engine; that is if the timing belt breaks, no damage to the valves.
When aligning the cam timing marks it should be noted that the right bank sprocket (from the rear) will stand precariously on the top side of a valve while the left bank sprocket will sit stable with all valves closed. No information about this trait is in your website, the shop manuals, or any other references. The valve timing belt tensioner is simplicity itself.
When installing the plastic timing belt cover, note that the oil slinger plate on the crank goes counter-intuitively outside the cover.
The only down side is that the engine idles at about 1100 rpm, which I think is too fast. So far I haven't been able to find out how to slow it down.
SpeedyEd
Swaps with Mitsubishi trucks (Neal Sandstede)
I used information from your site to repair my 1993 Mighty Max (also sold as the Dodge D50) 5-speed manual, 4WD truck. The truck had 185k miles and showed smoke so it wouldn’t pass the Colorado emissions test. I pulled a 3.0L from a 1989 Plymouth van with 105K, missing the water pump and front plastic covers. Even though it was a cross-fit engine it looked the same. The oil filter was in the wrong place so I found that the left motor mount of the Mits engine would cover the filter attachment boss on the Chrysler and used the original Mits oil pump. Using a handmade gasket between the mount steel and the block, oil flows correctly and there are no leaks. The bolt holes for the Mitsu mount align with the Chrysler filter attachment boss holes, but you have to trim the motor mount some to get the dipstick to fit. Interestingly, the flywheel fits the Chrysler version and the transmission input shaft carry bearing (idler bearing) is integral with the flywheel so no problem existed there.
At first I used the cast cam sprockets from the Mitsu but found that somehow the Mitsu sprockets are not centered on the Chrysler cams. The cam drive belt would alternate between too tight and too loose and made a repetitious noise like one or more of the lifters was faulty. I finally found the problem after using a stethoscope and noting that the noise was accompanied by a movement in the heater supply hose! I changed to the stamped Chrysler cam sprockets and eliminated the problem. It was difficult to comprehend how the timing belt survived this torture but it seems to be fine.
I used the Mitsu injectors and plenum, distributor, starter and motor mounts. The oil dipstick ended up being on the driver side instead of as in the Mitsu on the passenger side.
The truck seems to have a little more power, gets a little better fuel economy and passes emissions. I can easily accelerate from 30 mph in 5th , the truck will go over 100 mph (if you are brave enough to keep it up) and get about 27 mpg in mixed, but mostly highway driving.
Salvage yards wanted over $900 for a rear-drive engine from a Montero and I got the Chrysler engine for less than $100.
Some other comments:
The engine is a zero-interference engine; that is if the timing belt breaks, no damage to the valves.
When aligning the cam timing marks it should be noted that the right bank sprocket (from the rear) will stand precariously on the top side of a valve while the left bank sprocket will sit stable with all valves closed. No information about this trait is in your website, the shop manuals, or any other references. The valve timing belt tensioner is simplicity itself.
When installing the plastic timing belt cover, note that the oil slinger plate on the crank goes counter-intuitively outside the cover.
The only down side is that the engine idles at about 1100 rpm, which I think is too fast. So far I haven't been able to find out how to slow it down.
SpeedyEd
Joined
·
1,296 Posts
^Speedyed as usual with a quality post.
If you want a direct bolt-in, then just stick with the SOHC 6G72. Swapping in a twin turbo engine is about a 12 on the 1-10 scale. You can find these engines in most Chrylser/Dodge/Plymouth minivans from 1989-1994 that will work. Yes, I intentionally left out MANY years simply because that year spread will work the best without major headaches as far as peripherals, ect. go. I don't know what side the oil dipstick or the oil filter is on in those trucks, so that *might* pose an issue and could alter the choices of vehicles to find an engine out of.
For a first-timer project, a longblock swap is about a 7 out of 10. It's a challenge enough to do the work, but not as challenging as rebuilding an engine the first time.
I'd say start there, and work your way on. You'll get to know your vehicle and then start to get a feel for how far YOU want to go and what can and can't be done.
For a first-timer project, a longblock swap is about a 7 out of 10. It's a challenge enough to do the work, but not as challenging as rebuilding an engine the first time.
I'd say start there, and work your way on. You'll get to know your vehicle and then start to get a feel for how far YOU want to go and what can and can't be done.
Sorry guys I couldn't find a way to edit my original post. So it'd been a year and I have done nothing to my raider but yesterday I came across a 89 mitsubishi pickup 5 speed 4x4 2.6 engine code is g54b. Can I put this in my raider and would I have to also swap the drive train over as well? Thanks in advance!
Joined
·
5,905 Posts
it would be a full motor/trans/transfer case swap. the G54b is a 4 cyl and the 3.0 is a V6 so nothing will work. also your wiring wont work ether. I would just stick with the V6. and If you lived closer I would try to get you to sell it to me!!!LOL but your 1500 miles away from me!!!
Thanks knightmoves. So if I swapped out all of the above and pulled out all the wiring from the from the pickup and rewired the raider it's doable? The only reason I was thinking about doing this is the truck is basically free to me and the rebuilt engine only has 30,000 miles on it and I really don't have the money for other rebuilt engine. Thanks again!
Joined
·
2,528 Posts
I went back and reread the starting post. You should be able to find a cheap 3L to drop in there. You indicated no heads, but do you have the manifolds?
I would start with getting the engine running, then worry about performance improvements...
Can you keep the '89 4-cyl as a "daily driver" until the v6 is running?
Ed Kelly -www.kmperformance.com
I would start with getting the engine running, then worry about performance improvements...
Can you keep the '89 4-cyl as a "daily driver" until the v6 is running?
Ed Kelly -www.kmperformance.com
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
- Status
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!