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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i'm doing my t2 conversion...just got it running and it will idle but if i give it gas really quickly and leave my foot at half to 3/4 pedal it will surge from about 1k to 3k rpms....


Any ideas on what it could be????????? :bang head
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
ok so i smoke checked everything and found afew vacuum leaks...

fixed them and now it has changed symptoms....

it idles high like 1.5-2k...
and when i snap the throttle it bogs then picks back up again

more help please..........
 

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High idle can be caused by a few things
1) Central Vacuum Leak
2) Binding/Sticking Throttle/Speed Control Cable(s) or Throttle Plate
3) TPS Out Of Range (See Voltage Tables in Engine Management Section)
4) AIS Motor/Circuit Problem (Including Binding Pintle Due to Carbon)
5) Base Idle Not Correct ( See Help With Poor Idle in Help Section)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
wow this is starting to suck!!!! Car was atleast running yesterday!!!

Now today i go to work on it again and this time it won't even begin to start...

I did a smoke check, and no vacuum leaks...

I have 40psi fuel pressure....

and i have spark...

I've rotated my distributor around trying to see if its the timing, and got nothing still...

This is really starting to bite!!



Has anyone had any DEFECTIVE comps from FM ?????
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yeah alldata says 55psi at idle...but now i can't get it to start so its just cranking.

No fowled plugs...

and my stock comp won't work either...

MAP sensor take a full shit maybe???


You can here the engine change pitch at different pedal positions...no pedal i get nothing.

Half pedal i get kind of a jerking quicker revs

And wot still seems like its clearflooding it like it should
 

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First guess is bad timing. Reset the physical timing, then ignition with timing light. Turning it and not having it fire means nothing if its 180 degrees out or the base timing is too far of... So redo timing once again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
But the timing doesn't make any since though...

My car was running one evening and then not running the next...and i dont think it could have jumped a tooth because my timing belt is acctually making the over tightened sound...

I'll tear down my front end right now and check my timing marks again....


UMMM about codes...the power loss light was on when i had it running. How do i check that out??
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok so i got a code 23 which is Charge air sensor V above 4.96 cold or below .51 warm...

Would this keep it from running like it is??????

Thanks


I'm posting this is another thread to possibly get a quicker answer....
 

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If the light is on it is a hard fault (happening now) and the vehicle is in failure running on a fixed program.
First with the sensor pluged in and the key on backprobe the 2 connector terminals and read the voltage and compare to the proper voltage in the voltage tables listed in the engine management section.
With the sensor unplugged and the key on backprobe the 2 connector terminals with a voltmeter and it should read 5 volts.
If so replace the sensor, if not backprobe the 5 volt reference line and a good ground, if it now reads 5 volts repair the open in the signal return line(ground), if not 5 volts repair the 5 volt reference line for an open or short to ground.
 

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The readings you have for your ACT sensor are correct.
I am gathering that right now your problem is a no start, is this correct?
If so get back to basics, to start you require fuel, air, ignition and compression in the right amounts at the right time, what is missing?
Earlier you stated that static rail fuel pressure was at 40 psi which is low.
Static rail pressure should be 53-57 psi and hold, with the engine running rail pressure will drop 1 psi for every 2" HG applied to the FPR.
If fuel pressure is low that is where you need to start unless there is also a lack of spark and the pump is not running then you may have an ASD or HEP problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
this kinda sucked but was good overall, the fuel pressure gauge that i used must have been inaccurate...I used another gauge and now it shows 54psi with koeo.

Yes, my problem is crank no start...

I'm sure i have commpression because i just put new rings and pistons in & it was running, I've checked and re-checked the timing as well as adjusted with someone cranking the car while i rotated the distributor...

I'm getting a new ACT sensor tommorrow because i don't see a reason for there to be a code for it if there isn't something wrong with it....

Now i'm guessing that there is something wrong with either the ASD or HEP like you (NAJ) said. Is there anyway that i can check to make sure these are working properly?
Oh, and this might sound kinda dumb, and i can't find it in alldata...but what is the HEP?

Oh and did i say THANKS FOR THE HELP EVERYONE !!!!!
specially u NAJ no disrespect for my posting of the half answers thing......
 

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HEP= Hall Effect Pickup
The ASD powers the + coil, fuel pump, injectors and the Heated O2 Sensor. when you turn the key on the controller actuates the ASD for 1 second to run the pump to pressurize the fuel rail.It will not be actuated again until the controller sees a crank signal from the HEP.
To check the ASD Relay locate the underhood diagnostic connector and with the key on/engine off ground the DB/YL wire, this will actuate the ASD.The fuel pump should run, there should be 12 volts at the + coil and the DG/BK wire at the injector harness.
If all of this is present the ASD and circuit are ok.
Have someone crank the engine while you check for power at the + coil, if power is present the HEP is fine.
Remove the coil wire from the dist cap and hold 1/4" from ground while someone cranks the engine for 10 seconds.(use insulated pliers so you do not get shocked) and check for spark, count 1-2 sparks as no spark.
Post back what you find.
 
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