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Discussion Starter #1
My son is taking his GLHS to the track tomorrow for the first time. He is 17 and this will be his first trip to the track.
He told his friends he expects to get into the 13's. 13.99 et would be good enough.
The car is stock except for stage 2 computer, Grainger valve 15 lbs of boost 2 1/2 inch exhaust and an A555 transmission. The clutch is a TU purple pressure plate with the 6 puck ceramic disc.
The shifter feels like a hurst competition shifter since we converted the trans to rod shift with heim joints.
He is running new street radials.

Has anyone else run a similar combo? How hard do you have to drive it to get into the 13's?
 

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Mid to high 14's on street tires
Low 14's on slicks and maybe break into 13's
 

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Street tires? Mid 16s to start the night. Then 15's. Maybe 14.99.

Tell him focus on nothing except his 60 ft time. If he can get it to 2.1 sec, 13 isn't out of the question.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Street tires? Mid 16s to start the night. Then 15's. Maybe 14.99.

Tell him focus on nothing except his 60 ft time. If he can get it to 2.1 sec, 13 isn't out of the question.
I ran faster than that in a basically stock Turbo 1 Shelby Charger on street tires. I think the car only made 6 or 8 lbs of boost in the higher gears.
 

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Track prep and how the tires will stick will be the biggest factor. The 60' times are most important for ET. Slicks would be a huge help! Let us know how it goes.
 

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Street tires + a 17 year old? LOL! I'm 16 and have been driving my Tona for a while and I still blow at launching it. Just tell him not to get to crazy off the line and he shouldn't embarress himself to bad. Practice makes perfect!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Last summer I tried to run the car. My friend was there with his 2011 Challenger RT. The best he ran was 14.89.
I knew these cars had a week link with the plastic ends on the shift rods so I told myself I have to take it easy shifting the gears.
Well I use to race a big block 4 spd cuda with an indestructable hurst shifter back in the 80's.
Apparently I drive more on instinct. When the yellow before the green lit I popped the clutch and got a great launch .without thinking I flat shifted 2nd. Well I tried. The gear box never made it to second I pulled the shift rod right out of the socket. I coasted the car as far as I could down the track before the guy on the 4 wheeler picked me up.
I showed my buddy the time slip. I actually beat his 60 ft in his Challenger pretty bad.
I told him that if the shifter would have held I would have beat him.
He said quote " If I would have got beaten with that I would have been pissed"
I had him covered bad and he knew it. He sold the car less than 3 months after that race day.
I think he paid near 40k for it. The Challenger was nice but bang for the buck I don't think there is much out there that can beat a Turbo II L body.
Unfortunately I don't remember the 60ft time.
I don't know how quick my boy will run but I would be supprised if he doesn't run over 100 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
On Friday I drove an SRT4 for the first time. An all orginal 2005 with 81,000 miles.
I heard these cars were fast.
I was interested in the car until I drove it. My sons GLHS would run circles around it.
I know it can be modified but they want $12500 for it. For that Kind of money I could build a GLHS that runs 11's maybe faster.
 

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If it's stock, another thing to consider is don't rev it too high. I know my 2.5 slows down if I shift higher than 5200rpm. The 2.2 should breathe better with slightly higher revs, but not much. The head+intake are just too restrictive. I start out shifting at 55-5600 with a 2.2. Reving it to 6k is just wasting time...
 

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Drove a friends GLHS to 13.68 @ 98 with bov, exhaust and FWD perf stage 2. No other mods.

As most will notice et is low for mph, car had 14" M&H slicks.

It's been a long time but I think it was 1.9ish 60's.

Any traction and the right air and 13's should be no problem.

That car on street tires would spin in third on the street and second on the track, had to pedal it big time to launch and all the way through first.
 

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make sure it has poly A arm bushings and make sure you have zero toe and 1-1.5 negitive camber. Clowns go out all the time with FWD cars and computer alingments. You do that and the toe is in 1/16 and the camber is .5 positive, and they spin like on ice.

Should run near 100 in the lower 14s.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/358228-getting-20-pounds-per-square-inch.html

Run the stage 5 and computer controled boost. The MP computer runs on edge and at 15 can melt the engine fast. Adding a stage 5, +20s and 3 bar adds a ton of safety and power
 

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make sure it has poly A arm bushings and make sure you have zero toe with camber set to -1 to -1.5. Clowns go out all the time with FWD cars and computer alignments. You do that and the toe is in 1/16 and the camber is .5 positive, and they spin like on ice.

Should run near 100 in the lower 14s.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/358228-getting-20-pounds-per-square-inch.html

Run the stage 5 and computer controlled boost. The MP computer runs on edge and at 15 can melt the engine fast. Adding a stage 5, +20s and 3 bar adds a ton of safety and power
fixed :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
make sure it has poly A arm bushings and make sure you have zero toe and 1-1.5 negitive camber. Clowns go out all the time with FWD cars and computer alingments. You do that and the toe is in 1/16 and the camber is .5 positive, and they spin like on ice.

Should run near 100 in the lower 14s.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/358228-getting-20-pounds-per-square-inch.html

Run the stage 5 and computer controled boost. The MP computer runs on edge and at 15 can melt the engine fast. Adding a stage 5, +20s and 3 bar adds a ton of safety and power
We were told not to go with +20s and we only have the Mopar stage 2. I was told +20's were to much for our power level and would hurt fuel mileage.
We will most likely look for more upgrades in the future.
I am mixing in 1/2 tank of race fuel to safe guard against detonation.
I'll let you know how he does.
 

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Do they have a hose at the track? They did/do at our track and one thing I found is that the stock i/c heat soaks something fierce. It makes the runs extremely inconsistent. So before the 1st run and after each run I'd go to the hose, pop the hood, and put the hose end right on the i/c and run it up and down till it was as cold as the water coming out. I'd drive back to the staging lanes, pop the hood and then spray the i/c down with a mix of Water/alcohol from a spray bottle to keep it cold while waiting in the lanes. The car instantly went from being over a second difference between runs to being maybe .1 difference between runs.

Also on launching, Have him blip the throttle on and off as hard as he can keeping it around his desired launch rpm maybe +/- 250rpm or so. This get's the turbo spooled up so when the light goes green it's ready to go.

Just holding the rpms my launches were inconsistent. It would either bog or spin. Blipping it it would take off beautifully. Even if it did start to spin I could just lift off a bit and regain traction much easier and not blow the launch totally.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Bad day at the track. Heading to the staging lanes for the the first run and the power loss light came on. The car isn't making any boost. It must have a line leak.
It struggles to get to 10 lbs of boost. Plus to make matters worse I forgot this car still have a cat in the exhaust. I think that may be causing some problems and the final component. To run these cars you have to be able to really drive a stick.
Missed gears all day long.
I am planning finding out the problem and I will drive it next time to give the boy a goal to shoot for.
It always seems that the problems show up as soon as you take a street car to the track.
Best run of the day was a 16.2 missing 3rd gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If the power loss light is on you're in limp in mode, check the codes, that'll tell you what's wrong.
I got the power loss light off. Had and intercooler hose leaking I fix that but the car isn't making any power even at 15 psi boost. No codes stored. It even backfired one time when I shifted. Now Im thinking plugs and new 02 sensor.
I never had the car run low on power when the boost was good.
My next check will be a compression test. The car isn't smoking except when it back fired out the exhaust. I took out the dipstick and the oil fill cap while it was running and no smoke is puffing out. I checked the oil and antifreeze and no sign of mixing.
Will a bad 02 sensor show a code if it is damaged by leaded fuel?

Any Ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 
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