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:bang head I knew this was coming. I installed the engine today and the exhaust angle is way off. I am currently using a mexican manifold with a stock R/T turbo. the turbo outlet is pointing to high.

ANY ideas from those who have experienced this before.

Thanks
Andy
Cincinnati
 

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Discussion Starter #2
pics

Here are some pics. One is a close up of the flange and pipe.
And the other is one just before I slide it in for the first time, but probably not the last, as I may have to persuade the fire wall to move aft.

Thanks
Andy
 

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In my old 8v header I completely welded the outlet of swingvale
shut and cut open swingvale in different area, welded short 3.25"
snub to opening. In another buds car I simply cut lower flange and
welded a 6" pipe right out outlet pointed in user friendly area. Have
done this in mild steel as well as stainless to our cast swingvalves
with no cracks or leaks.
Turbonetics and other sell what is called a 'standard" outlet that
allows you to mount a manderal bend right out turbo. Bottom of
page, stumpy looking swingvalve:

http://www.turbocharged.com/catalog/t3.html
 

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My suggestion is take a hacksaw and cut the pipe a reasonable distance down. Flip the pipe over and see if it will clamp. If it won't get some fleixible pipe of same diameter place in middle between down pipe and exhaust and flex till it bolts up properly.
 

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lancer402 said:
:bang head I knew this was coming. I installed the engine today and the exhaust angle is way off. I am currently using a mexican manifold with a stock R/T turbo. the turbo outlet is pointing to high.

ANY ideas from those who have experienced this before.

Thanks
Andy
Cincinnati
Here's a picture of a spare I made for my car using the Volvo swing valve. I orginally made 2 one with the Ford swing valve and one with the Volvo swing valve. I did have to cut and re-angle my down pipe.
This is a Volvo swing valve a 2 1/2" I.D. 90 deg. weld el and a flange off the neon exhaust manifold. The one currently on my engine is a Ford swing valve 90 Deg. weld el and a flange off one of my old Mitisubishi turbos.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
good info

Larry:

Your are not using a mexican manifold, correct? They have the rectangular t3 fbolt pattern.

What did you weld that up with?

The RT turbo I have doesn't have the 5 bolt ford flange set up. It has some 3 bolt flange that I cannot find a flange to fit. I have found some samller ones.

Good idea with the weld els.

Andy
 

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You should use a rod with a high nickel content, but I have used regular mild steel wire in my mig welder have haven't had any issues with cracking. It may be the fact our stock manifolds and housings have a decent nickel content in them to begin with. I don't know, but I haven't had one crack from welding yet.
 

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lancer402 said:
Larry:

Your are not using a mexican manifold, correct? They have the rectangular t3 fbolt pattern.

What did you weld that up with?

The RT turbo I have doesn't have the 5 bolt ford flange set up. It has some 3 bolt flange that I cannot find a flange to fit. I have found some samller ones.

Good idea with the weld els.

Andy
I'm using a JGS manifold with the standard rectangular T3 flange. http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

Welded with an arc welder with 1/8" 6013 rods. I just welded about a 1/4" at a time at different spots until the whole thing was pretty hot, then went at it.

Going by your picture it looks like you might be able to make an angle cut between the O2 sensor and the flange, then rotate the flange 180 deg.
and weld it back together. Depending on the angle you make the cut you should be able to make the flange point down.

Russ, I really expected that welded swing valve to be a problem area. I'm not the greatest welder, plus cast iron! For the first couple of weeks I was just waiting for the car to suddenly get really loud. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Going by your picture it looks like you might be able to make an angle cut between the O2 sensor and the flange, then rotate the flange 180 deg.
and weld it back together. Depending on the angle you make the cut you should be able to make the flange point down.

Larry
Thats an idea. I might look into this and prractice welding cast iron first.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
get it hot first

KClarryb said:
I'm using a JGS manifold with the standard rectangular T3 flange. http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

Welded with an arc welder with 1/8" 6013 rods. I just welded about a 1/4" at a time at different spots until the whole thing was pretty hot, then went at it.

Going by your picture it looks like you might be able to make an angle cut between the O2 sensor and the flange, then rotate the flange 180 deg.
and weld it back together. Depending on the angle you make the cut you should be able to make the flange point down.

Russ, I really expected that welded swing valve to be a problem area. I'm not the greatest welder, plus cast iron! For the first couple of weeks I was just waiting for the car to suddenly get really loud. :D
Larry,
you have to get cast iron hot first???
Andy
 

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lancer402 said:
Larry,
you have to get cast iron hot first???
Andy
Andy,
I either read it somewhere or somebody told me to heat the cast iron before you weld on it, and let it cool down slowly to avoid cracking.

Hopefully a welding expert will comment and let us both know if it's really necessary.
 

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i'm no expert...but when I brought my exhaust elbow to have an 02 bung welded to it...they heated the area w/ a torch first, then welded the bung on...so i would say larry is correct in that you should heat the cast iron up first, then weld.

--scott
 
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