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Discussion Starter #1
ok i have a T2 Daytona 2.2 Liter turbo. i have ported head
ported intake
ported exhaust manifold
APFR
+20's
2 1/2" exhaust
T3/T4 Turbo
2 1/2" swingvalve
wastegates
cone filter
52 mm TB
Centerforce Clutch
568 trans
'90 2.5L CB
stainless lines what fuel pump should i get??? and do i need a 3 bar map sensor. i had fwd chip for my stock pump though.. need help fast
 

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Get the 255 pump. The APFR will return the unneeded fuel back to the tank.

MAP sensor is depend on your computer. You ONLY use 3 map sensor if you computer is calibrated for the 3 map, other wise, you will blow up the engine.
 

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your AFPR will be used to adjust your WOT/boosted air-fuel ratio ; thus you will need AT MINIMUM a narrowband A/F meter ; *strongly* suggest adding an EGT probe and gauge; the 'new-skool' smart way to tune is with a wide-band A/F meter (then you don't really need the EGT)

I have a very similar setup to yours...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i plan on getting wideband very soon. just everything cost money lol. turning the set screw in means less fuel???
 

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if you have a cal, set your AFPR to the stock fuel pressure. The vendors likely make the calibrations richer than they need to to accommodate for some extra air flow. Keep it that way until you get a wideband.

Changing fuel pumps won't change your A/F ratios.

If you have a 3bar cal then you will need a 3bar map. If you have a two bar cal, you don't really need to worry about much. It's limited to the same boost that the stock one is.
 

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I think you do need egt. I was running nice rich 12 a/f per my wd gauge, but my egt was pegged at 1600 went up past 25psi :eek:
Turns out my timing was at 0degrees. :bash: stupid me did not want to go through the hassele of finding my timing gun after a turbo swap.:kaboom:
 

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i plan on getting wideband very soon. just everything cost money lol. turning the set screw in means less fuel???
It means more on mine. I am pretty sure that is the same for all. You should really get a fuel pressure gauge, then there is no guessing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i had it chipped out for 17 psi 2.5 exhaust and stock pump. i dont know the car wont run as it is right now anyway its pissing me off really bad. i can drive for a bit then it just starts bogging out i cant even give it throttle its weird so i was thinking maybe my pump was bad and just upgrade anyways. i am gonna have it rechipped hopefully i find someone local.
 

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Did you check to see if it was for a 2 bar or a 3 bar?

See your computer doesn't really give a damn about what fuel pump you're running. It could care less. It does however care about what map sensor you're running. The stock map sensor is only useful over the range of -14.7 to 14.7psi. What does that mean? At any point of boost pressure above 14.7psi the stock map sensor has no idea what is going on.

If you got a cal from a vendor that let's you go to 17psi, if they care about having return customers, that cal would also require you to have a 3 bar map. Even if you've tuned the extra fuel out with an AFPR, you're still limiting yourself to much less than 17psi because the computer will think you're at about 17psi with the 3 bar, but you'll only be at 7 or 8psi.

What to do? Talk to whomever sold you the calibration about needing a 3 bar map and how to get it to run properly. Also, stop trying to drive it before you wash out the rings and ruin your engine.
 
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