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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would like some advice on what people ended up using for there IC piping. Just completly custom bend your own pipes, buy pieces with lots of joints or any available kits? I have a srt cooler going on a 91 daytona and i'm bout ready to put it on but not sure what route to go for piping. I was also going to have the IC extended out (can't remeber exactly right now) i think 5 inches , enough so i don't have to mess with the radiator.
 

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Buy a kit off of ebay, but make sure it comes with reinforced silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps, or you can buy them separately. That's what I'll do if I ever ditch the stock intercooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what would be the ideal size? i would think 2.5 would be sufficient but is going to 2.75 really make a diff and would that fit around the alternator or am i thinking of the 3 that barely fits?
 

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My advice is to fab the piping ... not 100% sure but a kit for the application you're intending doesn't exist. I ran a SRT4 IC in a '89 daytona. Pipe routing can be tricky and there is a couple ways to do it. This is why you should fab it yourself.

An FYI .. the IC in/oulets will "just" fit along side the radiator as they are. You may be looking to move the radiator over toward the passenger side an inch though to clear the piping on the driver side without cutting up the car.

If I used one of these again I'd modify the far tank to allow the piping to return over the IC back to the driver side then follow the other pipe out of the front clip. The way it is stock makes you go under the rad support or up and across the engine bay inside. Didn't like either route to be honest. Too many turns.
 

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yeah id say an aluminum ebay kit would be a good bet. theres good places where you can just get single bends and straight pipes with couplers and clamps. but for the money ebay's hard to beat. right now i run 2.5in steel tubing, not totally by choice but i got my intercooler and pipes off this forum, and just used them. the one in front of my valve cover gets hot, just letting the car idle in the driveway, so i dont think some kind of insulation and/ aluminum would be a bad idea.
 

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Ill be gettin a full ebay kit (fmic and universal pipe kit) as of right now Id go that route as far as $$ wise its cheap and functional. Ill let you know if I have any issues with it. Im gonna see if I cant find a better way to run the pipes as well.
 

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I agree with ^! Cheap, easy, and the kits usually have all the stuff you need and maybe a little extra to achieve what you need. 2.5 inch aluminum is probably ideal for fit and the aluminum is better for cooling. I eventually plan to go this route on my baron.
 

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make sure you get silicone couplers and T-bolts, a lot of the kits only give you worm gears that dont cut the silicone, but also dont hold very tight. t-bolts arent that cheap when you need a bunch, hence some kits for cheap, usually dont include them
 

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I'm gathering all my pieces converted this 85 shelby turbo1 to turbo2, and I'm interested in running 2.25 or 2.5" i/c pipes after the turbo, and 3-3.5" on the turbo inlet side even though I'll have to reduce the size @ the inlet flange! What I trying to do in provide a(plenum) larger volume of available air and reducing the restriction of sucking air thru a small 2-2.5" pipe. I will have a aluminum plate in place of the factory turbo 2 intercooler setup, with 3, 6" pipes welded in place. One for the air filter (CAI), one for the plumbing from the turbo to the i/c and one from the i/c to the TB! The air filter location provides a really good ram air effect, along with being away from high water or falling rain. Has any one tried a 3" or greater turbo inlet pipe with the filter outside the engine bay on the core support behind the headlight?
 
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