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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
On my 89 Turbo minivan - It seems that when I press lightly on my brakes during patches of rough road the rapid rattle/clunking is often vastly diminished (suspect here anti-rattle clip(s) missing), but not always or completely. It seems that at times the sound is unrelated to the brakes. Sway bar busings look fine, and not strut leaks. Before I jack it up, what common problems am I looking for specific to this model?
 

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if you're getting a nasty clunk on bumps think about the bearings at the top of the front struts
the weight of the car rides on them and as my shop teacher once said .. struts are good sometimes for 200 000 KM's but the bearings at the top are good often for only 40 000 to 50 000 KM's..

this often explains the horrible bashing crossing railway tracks etc..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
if you're getting a nasty clunk on bumps think about the bearings at the top of the front struts
the weight of the car rides on them and as my shop teacher once said .. struts are good sometimes for 200 000 KM's but the bearings at the top are good often for only 40 000 to 50 000 KM's..

this often explains the horrible bashing crossing railway tracks etc..
if you're getting a nasty clunk on bumps think about the bearings at the top of the front struts
the weight of the car rides on them and as my shop teacher once said .. struts are good sometimes for 200 000 KM's but the bearings at the top are good often for only 40 000 to 50 000 KM's..

this often explains the horrible bashing crossing railway tracks etc..
How do I check those front strut bearings?
 

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I put all new moog inner and outer tie rods on 6 months ago...but I'll check them. I'll put a new front motor mount on, does look bad. How do I check the CV joints?
I would check for torn boots and excessive play when you turn the axles, but others here would have better tips on how to check them.

Interesting that you mentioned the front mount looking bad.
If the rubber insert has failed, you would definitely get a clunking sound.
Also check the rear mount (dog bone) that connects the K-frame to the transmission case.
if the front mount is shot, that would put all the engine roll stress on the back mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did you check the control arm bushings?
CV joints?
Engine mounts?
I would check for torn boots and excessive play when you turn the axles, but others here would have better tips on how to check them.

Interesting that you mentioned the front mount looking bad.
If the rubber insert has failed, you would definitely get a clunking sound.
Also check the rear mount (dog bone) that connects the K-frame to the transmission case.
if the front mount is shot, that would put all the engine roll stress on the back mount.
I see some people suggest removing the front engine mount bracket arm from the block. Is it also kosher to just jack the engine up until the mount clears the bracket within which it sits?
 

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I see some people suggest removing the front engine mount bracket arm from the block. Is it also kosher to just jack the engine up until the mount clears the bracket within which it sits?
I would put a jack under the engine to support it, then remove the bracket with the square bushing inside.
Remove the bushing from the bracket, insert a new bushing into the bracket, and re-install the bracket/bushing assembly.
The jack is a safety, but also takes the pressure off the front mount, making it easier to remove and re-install.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The motor mount is done. Here is how I compressed the new (C shaped) insulator into the opening...with a large hose clamp. The noise up front is better, but I still have a rattle somewhere in the linkage or suspension. It's like the shoes would rattle, but it does it on rough pavement or gravel even after I quiet the shoes by riding the brakes.
 

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The motor mount is done. Here is how I compressed the new (C shaped) insulator into the opening...with a large hose clamp. The noise up front is better, but I still have a rattle somewhere in the linkage or suspension. It's like the shoes would rattle, but it does it on rough pavement or gravel even after I quiet the shoes by riding the brakes.
I completely forgot about the expansion slit in the square metal housing.
Yes, you squeeze it into a perfect square, drop it in, and it expands back out into the bracket.
And the tabs keep it from moving also.

As others have said, it could also be the upper strut mount, the bearing, and/or the jounce bumper.
 
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