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Hey there, I have an '89 CSX with a bit of a problem. It's my daily driver, and I've never had this problem before. I got out of the car before, and it sounded like the fuel pump was still whirring. The lazy idiot in me just said "meh" and went inside. When I came out a few hours later, and forgotten about it, I realized that the pump was STILL going! I put the key in, jiggled it a little, took it back out, and nothing changed. Then I started the car and it didn't even take half a crank for it to start. I drove all the way home about 10 miles, and this could just be paranoia, but idle seemed a little bit less than usual. Once I got home I shut the car off, took the key out, and the pump was still going. In a bit of a rage/panic in the pouring rain, I pulled the fuel pump fuse and it shut off.

So what's wrong with my car guys? What should I check for? I think possibly, my ASD Relay may be stuck in the ON position, but this can be a long shot. Just wondering if you guys could help diagnose this, or have had similar problems.

Thanks everyone!
 

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You are on the right track...
It sounds like the ASD relay output side is staying actuated after key off.
The output side is only battery voltage in (RD Wire) and battery voltage out.(DG/BK Wire)
The control side is switched ignition voltage in(DB Wire) and controller ground control.(DB/YL Wire)
If the contact points are stuck together on the output side it will not matter if the control side is operational.

Try tapping on it, removing the cover and filing the contact points or just replace it.
 

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Back when I still had shops work on my cars I lost power to the coil on my '88 Omni. The shop ran a jumper to the coil from somewhere, and after that my fuel pump ran constantly. I drove it like that for a while and had to disconnect my battery every day. The timing belt went eventually. Some lady begged me to sell her the car. Payments on $300! So I finally gave in. Her brother-in-law got the belt swapped out and it ran fine. After the second payment I never saw the car again. Somehow, the city gave her temporary registration tags. I'm sure it was never insured. Sorry for the long winded story!
 

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You are on the right track...
It sounds like the ASD relay output side is staying actuated after key off.
The output side is only battery voltage in (RD Wire) and battery voltage out.(DG/BK Wire)
The control side is switched ignition voltage in(DB Wire) and controller ground control.(DB/YL Wire)
If the contact points are stuck together on the output side it will not matter if the control side is operational.

Try tapping on it, removing the cover and filing the contact points or just replace it.
Great info Jan.
Just a quick note on filing contacts.
Don’t.
Use a contact cleaner that doesn’t mar or melt plastic.
And use a toothbrush or a nylon brush, never a metal one.
The reason is that all contacts are plated.
Any abrasive material will wear the thin coating off and cause it to corrode prematurely.
 

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Great info Jan.
Just a quick note on filing contacts.
Don’t.
Use a contact cleaner that doesn’t mar or melt plastic.
And use a toothbrush or a nylon brush, never a metal one.
The reason is that all contacts are plated.
Any abrasive material will wear the thin coating off and cause it to corrode prematurely.
If the contact points are melted/burnt from arcing (which is normal) Electrical Contact Cleaner will have no effect.
Back in the day of point/condenser ignition systems they sold "Point Files" and I owned one.
If the contact points in the relay are burnt/stuck together causing the relay to be constantly "on" filing the contacts is a "temporary" fix to see if the problem is corrected or to get you out of a bind.
The correct fix once you have determined that burnt/stuck contact points were the problem is to replace the relay.
 

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If the contact points are melted/burnt from arcing (which is normal) Electrical Contact Cleaner will have no effect.
Back in the day of point/condenser ignition systems they sold "Point Files" and I owned one.
If the contact points in the relay are burnt/stuck together causing the relay to be constantly "on" filing the contacts is a "temporary" fix to see if the problem is corrected or to get you out of a bind.
The correct fix once you have determined that burnt/stuck contact points were the problem is to replace the relay.
I was referring to the contacts on wire connectors that are dirty or tarnished.

I agree with you regarding points and internal relay contacts that have been burnt from arcing or any connectors that have been burnt.

Regarding the ASD relay, it would be great if we could find a supplier of those for the power module.
That seems to be the most common failed part.
 
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