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finally got my '87 shadow running in stock form, and will be converting it to t2 status sometime this winter but right now i would like to install my g-valve i have collected for the swap and run it on the engine in its T1 configuration. is this as simple as finding a barb on the intake hooking that to the ball end of the valve and hooking the valve to the wastegate can? what do i do with the lines i removed form the wastegate can? only plan on running up to 10 psi, this should be safe so long as i watch my afr gauge right?

thanks guys!
 

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finally got my '87 shadow running in stock form, and will be converting it to t2 status sometime this winter but right now i would like to install my g-valve i have collected for the swap and run it on the engine in its T1 configuration. is this as simple as finding a barb on the intake hooking that to the ball end of the valve and hooking the valve to the wastegate can? what do i do with the lines i removed form the wastegate can? only plan on running up to 10 psi, this should be safe so long as i watch my afr gauge right?

thanks guys!
yes. IM source is best. if you havent, you should replace the stock plastic 1:4 vacuum 'splitter' with a vacuum block, and ALL NEW vac lines. ziptie or clamp EVERY barb/connection. if there is an 'orifice' (plastic barb connector with a calibrated hole) currently in the wastegate line , put that after the MBC.

leave them (plugged) or remove them (plug whatever orifices yu uncover ;) )
leave the wastegate solenoid electrical connections hooked up or you will trigger a code

*should* be. no guarantees ! do a full tune-up including fuel filter first. always run 91 or better octane. keep an eye on yur plugs, looking for evidence of pre-ignition. make SURE your ignition timing is spot on; if you drive this car hard, run cooler plugs - RN9YC
 

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You could also just disconnect the lines at the solenoid and connect them to the g-valve.
true too,
but you're keeping the ~5' of original vacuum line(s) and numerous connectors =
potential failure / leak spots

IMO vac/boost lines should be:
as short as possible, appropriately sized, robust material, few connections as possible, each connection needs good barbs or clamps/zip-ties
 
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