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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I still can't figure out what the hell the problem is with my injectors not firing. I've switched computers, no change. I've switched hall effect pickups, no change. I'll get one quick pulse when the key goes to ON, then while cranking, nothing. Spark is there, fuel pressure is there. No pulse at all. Nice weather is here and I want to drive this F-ing car! I've put enough work into it to deserve it!

I'm really sorry if this is a really general question... but how hard is MegaSquirt to get running? I know some people are already done it. Do you need a laptop while the car is running, or just to tune it? I've still got the crank sensor stuck in the block just as a plug for the hole, plus I've got at least a few 2.0/2.4 cam sensors kicking around. Not to mention the car already has a 3-bar MAP sensor in it. Does it use the stock sensors?
 

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The laptop is only for tuning like any other stand alone. You don't even need a cam sensor with MS. The MS has it's MAP sensor inside the case and you run a vacume line to it. It comes with a 2.5 bar sensor but you can easiely upgrade to a 3 or 4 bar sensor. You can set up the board to use the stock coolant and air temp sensors on the 2.4/2.0 engines.

I would tell you to go ahead and get the MS2 ECU with the V3 board. Everyone that has switched from the MS1 says it is great.
 

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Sounds like your close to being up and running, I spent a few days chasing a similar issue on my 16v hybrid.

What's your setup consist of, what wiring have you had to modify?
Are you using a HEP?
Any codes? Can you still pull codes?

I did use stock stratus 12ohm injectors the first time my engine started, so yes they will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am VERY close. So close it hurts.

My setup is a complete 2.4 with distributor on the side of the head. Injectors are SRT-4 Stage 1. I am using the stock hall effect pickup. Only wiring I had to modify was lengthening the AIS and TPS wires, add the charge air temp connector, along with just about making the injector harness from scratch. I've since taken every ounce of split loom and tape off of the injector wires so there are no secrets. Right now I've got a stock 1989 Turbo II computer in there just for diagnosis. I don't know if the custom calibrations from Cindy will give codes. Personally I've never used a custom cal before.

I checked continuity from the 6-pin injector harness connector all the way back to the 14-pin SMEC connector and everything checks out as far as the two injector driver circuits.

Again, what happens is, when I turn the key on, I'll get one quick pulse of the injectors. When I crank the car, there is no injector pulse and the car just farts for a second on the small amount of fuel that the quick little initial pulse put in. Spark is there, but it's kinda crappy. I've got my timing gun with the trigger zip-tied so I can lay it down and watch it from inside the car while cranking. It doesn't seem to have very consistent spark, but it's definitely there (hence the car popping and farting for a second before it dies again). Fuel pressure is around 35psi while cranking. I don't know if that's what it should be because I haven't messed with my AFPR yet.

I was messing with it again today and still I'm getting nowhere. The "16V electronic distributor adapter" is just about my only hope before I fork over half a grand for MegaSquirt.
 

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You didn't say if you had any codes. I'd check for good ground and +8 volts at the HEP connectors (Orange is +, black/blue is ground). You can turn the motor over by hand and verify that the other (not orange or black/blue) wire switches from + to ground. The pulse you see when turning the ignition on is a priming pulse, so you know the ECU can indeed control the injectors. Spark may not be very consistent while cranking due to the crank speed changing pretty rapidly during each revolution. Custom cals should give out codes being as they're based on the Chrysler code, my '90 Stage IV did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll double-check for codes tomorrow. I did check for 8V at the HEP plugs today while I was under the hood, and both plugs have 8V and ground at the proper pins. However, I didn't check the output wire for either pickup. I'll probably just pull the distributor out and spin it by hand with the key on to check the output pins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Right next to Taunton.

As far as my machinist... I've been picking it up for the past couple years now. I started at my job as an electronics engineer. Two years later, I'm doing the electronics as well as machining parts for prototypes. I love it! Big money saver too.
 

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Aren't SRT-4 injectors high impedence and all 85-93 turbo cars were low impendence injectors? That maybe your problem is the injector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Eh, I had come across that thought, but if I'm using high impedance injectors on the original electronics, the drivers only have to sink about a third of the current that the low impedance injectors use.

If you went the other way, say, installing Turbo II injectors in an SRT-4, then you'd likely burn out the injector drivers because they weren't designed to supply the high current that the low impedance injectors use.

If my reasoning is wrong here, someone please correct me.
 

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suprised i havent seen u around. i lived in taunton for 15 years, always have had a red daytona of some type mostly 90+

had an 89 z for a while. then two chargers. then a 90 shelby and now a 91 iroc.

maybe we could hook up some time. ill buy you a beer or sumpin.

ill let u check out my swiss import daytona iroc 25 ht. i need a good machinist also i may have some work for you. precision in dighton porked me good. thinkin bout going uo maine to talk to mcmaster next.

cheeers!
 

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When you lengthened your TPS wiring did you switch the wires around to get the correct signal?
The TPS sensor on the Caravan TB I used spins the opposite direction so I had to reverse the wires to get the proper TPS signal voltage.

You can also try out a stock SMEC just to rule out that possibility.

Also the distributor being driven off the cam spins couter clock wise instead of clock wise, does the Hep wiring need to be modified to correct for this?
 

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taunton fellas I live right near ya I'm in R.I. lets hook up have some beers and check out the iron I dont see many TDs around
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
When you lengthened your TPS wiring did you switch the wires around to get the correct signal?
The TPS sensor on the Caravan TB I used spins the opposite direction so I had to reverse the wires to get the proper TPS signal voltage.

You can also try out a stock SMEC just to rule out that possibility.

Also the distributor being driven off the cam spins couter clock wise instead of clock wise, does the Hep wiring need to be modified to correct for this?
I never heard of having to switch the wires. Hmm, that would be something to check. I have a stock 89 SMEC in it now as a diagnostic measure. Nothing changed when I switched from my FWD Performance SMEC to the stocker.

The direction of the distributor shouldn't matter because the two hall effect switches are merely on-off switches. So no matter which direction the shutter wheel is travelling, they will still turn on and off in the same fashion.

I still haven't had a chance to check the two outputs of the hall effect pickup. Also, stupid ass me, it dawned on me that I can't check the damn codes because I disconnect the battery when I'm not working on it. :bang head

Local guys, yeah, let's set something up sometime. turbopac, where in RI are you?
 

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Don't bother with the HEP, TPS is it. WOT during cranking will cause a no fuel condition. Unplug the TPS and I bet it'll start. Direction does matter on the HEP, but if you have spark, it should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So if I unplug the TPS (if that's the problem), it should start, just with a code, right? Hmm... my female companion is working late tonight... car's already in the garage...
 

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Im in warren right on the R.I. MASS line yeah lets all get together maybe this weekend?I dont know leme know.. Ill check back later thanx
 

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any news??? i would like to see this car someday...lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah me too grrrrrr. Just an update, the car has a stock 1989 TII SMEC and the stock 2-bar MAP in it.

I just came home after working on it. Come to find out, I plugged in my Snap On scanner and looked at all the sensors individually. With the throttle closed, the TPS was reading 4.4V! I reached over and moved the throttle, and at WOT, I'm getting 1.1V. Damn computer thought it was WOT when it wasn't. I switched the 5V and sensor ground wires and now it's working properly. Fuel injectors are pulsing. All other sensors check out ok for the most part. Coolant temp gauge is reading a little high for some reason, but I can worry about that later.

Two or three times today, the car would idle very poorly for about 10 seconds and slowly die. It *sounded* like it was only running on 2 cylinders. I'm still getting inconsistent spark and I just don't know why. I checked the codes and I was getting 12, 23, 24, 26, and 54. I had the CAT and TPS unplugged for a bit, so that's where the 23 and 24 came from. The 26, I dunno, it might have something to do with the fact that I'm using high impedance injectors that require only 25% of the current that the stockers needed.

Code 54... aaaa yaay more distributor issues. I read up on it and I guess this code is thrown when the computer sees the reference pickup, but not the sync pickup. I cleaned the contacts and put some good dielectric grease in the connectors and it didn't make any difference to the way the car was acting. Just for the hell of it, I checked continuity once again to both pickups and everything ohmed out fine.

Side note, I pulled the spark plugs after it had done the 10 seconds of stumbling thing. Completely soaked. I cleaned them out with compressed air and reinstalled them. After working on it for about another hour, I pulled them back out again and they're soaked again. No idea what's causing it.

Tomorrow it continues. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Insight that has been already shared IS greatly appreciated! Thank you for the TPS tip! Even though the car still doesn't start, it was definitely pinned wrong.
 
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