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Discussion Starter #1
I have the 2.5 turbo, had it intercooled and have the turbo set to 12 psi. The TB is match ported to the intake side for a better transition from intake Ito TB which did help as I don't need to have as much pedal effort to get up to speed without needing the turbo to go past zero.

So, I am guessing I am at around 180hp.
Since the 2.2 is 148hp non intercooled at around 7psi and 177 intercooled with 12 psi and the 2.5 turbo non intercooled is 152 hp... I am guessing the 4hp difference is landing me at about 180hp intercooled at 12psi.

My goal is for now 200hp. Reason... I am broke. Needing other repairs set me back.

So... What can be done to get that last 20hp for not alot of $$$???

The mitsu turbo is ruining the exhaust upgrade possibility.

Hitting past 14.5psi with the stock computer is a block.

That bad flowing intake manifold is a possible... But gains would be what by getting a two piece ported???

So maybe set this at 13.5psi and get a ported 2 piece? Maybe a larger TB too.

Or???

I would guess on a NA four banger motor a ported manifold gets around only 3 more hp... But on a turbo, I don't know.

A larger TB maybe a couple more hp on an NA, but again on a turbo?

Another 1.5psi might get another 5 or so hp.

Maybe another 10-12hp more with the intake, TB and boost raise?

I understand broke= probably not getting 20hp more... But, maybe you guys have a suggestion? Thanks guys/ gals!
 

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cheaper to upgrade to a ported exhaust manny and a Garrett turbo than to get a 2 piece. My 2.5 made 200hp/280ft-lbs at 12psi the long block was stock, Had a stock 2 piece, stock 46mm TB, Cummins FMIC, Ported exhaust manny, S60 turbo, 3" air filter to turbo setup with a custom built cold air box where the battery used to be. 2.5" Swingvalve and a 3" straight pipe side exit.


Right now your intake out flows the cork in the system which is the itty bitty mitsu turbo.

look at this image

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo/turbo_housings.jpg


See???? an engine is an air pump, if you can't get it out you can't get it in and vise versa.

You probably make 170hp and 300ft-lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I guess the turbo and ported manifold is next. But, $500 per item plus install will be around $300 install. This will be a in the future purchase though.

The Cummins fmic, what is that?
 

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get a garret. you have to take the exhaust manifold off to swap it.
so go ahead and get an extra exhaust manifold and port it out. while you wait to get the garret.

make sure to get a 2.5 swing valve and you should be getting close to your goals
 

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you should be able to get an exh mani to port for $0 - $50 ;

a decent used "TII" garrett can be found for ~$100-$150 ..
maybe get a rebuild kit for $50 ..

the 2.5" sv may be a little pricy ;)
 

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in the meantime,
you could bump yur boost up to 13-14 psi - depends on if you start hitting overboost cutoff;
maybe get a zener to manage that, but beware and be aware of the issues w running a zener.

get a 30$ A/F gauge

a free flowing exhaust will help too of course and will also be needed for when you eventually upgrade the turbo,
so get that done...
are you resisting that cuz you're worried about 'mitsu boost creep' ?

the mandrel bent kits from FWD performance are a nice product and reasonably priced.
if you can't afford that do you know anyone with a 'muffler shop' ?
cuz even a "crimp bent" 2.5" system will be WAY better flowing than the OE
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What is a zener?

The Garrett was enevitable but the $500 has prohibited me. I am interested in the idea of a $100 one and a $50 rebuild kit. Where should I look for these?

I originally and may still get the Turbos Unleashed manifold, but it is I believe $500. If I can find a spare manifold, that would be great.

I will probably look for a junker Garrett first, then 2.5 sv.

The manifold will be last item.

I do have an air to fuel monitor, but needs installed.

I fear the cost of installation of of these items.

I realize being broke doesn't mean can get 20 or more hp for a few bucks. Was hoping the intake, TB and raise boost could somehow get close. The blockage is the Mitsubishi turbo though... Sounds like there is no going around that.

Sounds like my course is set for 200hp.
Thank you guys once more.
 

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Mike,
When looking for a used turbo, you may very well find the 85-87 draw or pull through turbos will usually be in better shape than the TII blow through turbos. The 85-87 turbos should have next to zero wear on thrust bearing, while the TII turbos could have excessive wear on the thrust bearing. The turbos are same except the compressor cover (cold side of turbo) has a different cover. 85-87 uses a 3 bolt bolt-on inlet, while 87+TII uses a slip-on inlet. TU sells a couple different style adapters to convert the early style turbo to the later style. For 200WHP, you need nothing bigger than a bone stock TO3 Garrett (t03 50 trim).

Do a search on zener diodes. It is in a nutshell, a 4.3-4.7 volt zener diode you can install on your map sensor signal wire to trick your ECU (logic or SMEC) into thinking you are running less boost than you actually are. It basically prevents overboost shutdown from happening, allowing higher boost pressures. Read up of pros and cons. Proceed with caution only after you have a functional A/F gauge and plenty of injector. Zener diodes can provide you very cheap HP gains, but they can also bite you quickly in the a$$, much like a manual boost controller. Countless people have wound up with broken ring lands, using both zener diodes and manual boost controllers, combined with low quality fuel, or not enough fuel. Think twice about using them. Using a manual boost controller or zener diodes, and you removing safeguards put into the Chrysler software from running excessive boost. You think your broke now, how broke will you be if you need to replace a piston or two? That being said, I would venture to say that almost everyone that has been running a modified TD/TM has used them in the past at some point or another. Whether they're willing to admit that is another thing.:laugh2::surprise:
 

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The mistu is 100% your blockage.

no use putting on an exhaust.
or porting things.
or upping the boost over 13-14PSI untill that thing is gone.

a better intercooler may help.
an exhaust will only make the mitsu spike harder.


you can get a new center section for a garret for 200$~. then you just need to find a used one. or blown one. or just the compressor housing and turbine housing.
 
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