[4 L-bodies]

Mark, Looks nice!
Your gonna really cook that reservoir and PS fluid without shielding. Have you considered using the ZF pump? It would gain you a lot more clearance. Lot of guys run them when they have installed a large plenum manifold or big turbo. Here is a couple pics for you if you aren't privy to them. They were used during the 88-90 model years. Obviously all the heat shielding was added by me.

 

[GoforthSRT]

Oh wow! That is a proper build indeed! How did that engine do?

I need to see if I have any ZF sets sitting around. I think I doo? I probably do? I know that I went down a rabbit hole with my 89 daytona so I'm sire there are a few spares around.

It is a crystal clear visual how much betterthe zf unit is versus ham can when it comes to clearance.

That dimpled/impressioned heat shield is the same stuff I was looking at for a PS heat shield. Interesting choice to use it on the intake manifold as well.

~Mark

 

[GoforthSRT]

Parts! These parts should get the #4 coolant mod done which is the next big tackle. Otherwise I picked up plugs (with indexing set cuz I love snake oil), 3.5" vBands for my mini exhaust, the poly mounts arrived, the replacement "not hulk smashed" degree wheel, and the diyautotune coils came in.

The coils are legit, totally skookum. I bet one coil is about as heavy as the sock distributor. I hope to get a proper mount assembled for these this weekend.

Stay tuned!
~Mark

 

[GoforthSRT]

So I received the clutch from TU last week or so. I went with a non-sprung six puck, with the +10% diameter and the black pressureplate. It is a nice piece and yep, already verified that it fits the inputs shaft of the trans...

I also had the original 6 body flywheel turned at the local machine shop. A dozen donuts got me accelerated from a 3 week wait to same day! Treat your machinists well!

Additionally, I picked up the arp hardware for the pressureplate and flywheel.

~Mark

 

[GoforthSRT]

I decided to tackle the alternator belt tensioner. I'm ready to ditch the factory clunky setup for something a bit more solid.

The parts!

The destination.

Preliminary line up.

Cut em and shim em.

Next hurdle.

Chop chop.

Burn em up.

Test fit.

Weld alternator bolt to fork as well as Cut spacer for the M10 bolt to keep the forks from bending/collapsing from torquing fasteners.

 

[GoforthSRT]

So I've been fretting over shifter cables for the a568 transmission... I have a couple of shifters and a short throw stick from FWDP, but cables seem to be an issue. Perhaps some of yall have seen my posts of concerns elsewhere on the forum. Traditionally L-body folk seek the P-body cables for a 523/568 swap, however cables are difficult to procure. I've tried the used market, the parts house replacements, and NOS solutions. It seems that neon and srt4 cables are a perfect swap as well, but not even these are available new. Used srt4 cables are $300+. I expected there to bet hard-core aftermarket srt4 cables available, but nope, nothing. So it's time to make...

My plan was to have overkill push/pull cables made by a boat shop, but I was struggling to identify what I wanted to have made since I don't have a good donor to inspect. I did some looking around and found these....

EBay shifter cables for a K-swap RSX application. I figured what the hell, $80 isn't too much to sacrifice, and the pictures look exactly like what I want! Who knows how the ends will fit the trans, how the couplers will fit the mounts, no clue.

Here is what I got.

The selector can works perfectly as is at the trans side. The crossover need to have a solution created for the housing mount. The ends are a tight fit over the actuator ends. The circlip groove is slightly hidden, so I will need to sand/grind the ends to gain 1mm or so. Easy!

The shifter end:

The crossover is nearly a direct fit. The overall system seem to have the cable housing a tad long so the cable cannot operate in the rang that the trans needs. The selector is completely functional for 3-4 and 5-R as it sits. The only issue is the size of the cable end is so large that is contacts the shifter base when moved to 1-2.

The final issue is the cable length. Both of these measure 58 inches end to end. So one cable is ~6" long and the other ~12" long. I believe that I have come up with an method to deconstruct them, modify, and reassemble to meet my needs...

Stay tuned!

~Mark

 

[Slam0325]

Mark I love watching you make and tweak things in this build. I wish I had the tools and better yet the skills to do what you do.


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[GLHS0815]

Mark I love watching you make and tweak things in this build. I wish I had the tools and better yet the skills to do what you do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree 100%! Regular FWD TD Mguiver right here.

 

[GoforthSRT]

Hey guys! I do appreciate the kind words. It is nice to see some folks getting some entertainment and perhaps inspiration to get out in the garage and do some wrenching.

All of my tools have been purchased because of turbododge, now that I think about it. I end up sitting and thinking up solutions to my challenges, and then I go buy the tools that I need to make it happen! All of my skills have been taught by YouTube and my own trial and error. I am a far cry from proficient, so I'll scrap something and try again until I'm satisfied with the result.

This community has always inspired me because there have been some real pioneers and out of the box thinkers here. Given the lack of a massive aftermarket like is available to hotrodders of today, TDers have been cobbling there own solutions, some of which have been ingenious. We are also a bunch of cheap asses which makes for some amusing posts as well.

Thank you for tuning in guys. I enjoy contributing to keeping this hobby alive!

Thank you,
~Mark

 

[GoforthSRT]

The fuel rail mounts to from Chris at TU are a huge step up from what I had previously. He sent me these for free, due to the dysfunctional pair that came with the rail initially back in the early 2000s. Also this is the first TU header that I've had the chance to see in person. They are impressive pieces! The quality of iron and casting is obvious. I bought it knowing that the turbo flange was unmachined, but I admit that I was surprised that the headside flange was not drilled nor machined... otherwise the ports are HUGE. It is interesting that the outlet is beyond cylinder 4 rather than between cylinder 3 and 4. Chris told me that this was one of the last three manifolds that he has in stock, and he will not be casting more.

The rail mounts appear to have been water jet out of a ~1" plate. The finish is to be expected, so I want to clean that up the best I can.

I hit them with a wire wheel (lightly) and a flap disc.

Loosely fit the 1/4-20s with locktite because I recall mucho difficulty with the mounts fitting previously.

And installed with fresh hardware. I was slightly perturbed that i didnt clean the little end of the mount that is right in your face against the rail... also I had to remove the 1/4-20s to fit the rear bolts and then reinstall the 1/4-20s with locktite again. The mix of sae and metric sorta sucks, as well as the fact that I need to use a crowsfoot to install and remove the rail is less that ideal. But at least it is solid and awesome!

My next endeavor is tackling the coil mounting scheme and to retime engine before I forget.

Thanks all,
~Mark

 

[4 L-bodies]

Hey Mark,
Keep up the good work.Some of us (esp. L-bodies guys) when upgrading to the larger car alternator, just use the larger car lower alternator bracket. Super simple to adjust compared to that POS L-body design. This bracket was designed for the early (non-common) blocks. A couple of us have shortened them further (about 2-2.5") so they are more compact to the alternator. This can be beneficial if running a front mount intercooler. As you know, space is at a premium in the L-body engine bay. The large bushing on the bottom is surrounded by rubber for noise & vibration
isolation. I've never seen a failed one. Can't say that for the newer CB brackets. They're all broke it seems. Also in 88 the L-body finally received the Chrysler corporate alternator, so that year only, the L-bodies received a better designed lower alternator bracket. In 89, the CB arrived, so that bracket was changed again!

 

[GLHS0325]

I decided to tackle the alternator belt tensioner. I'm ready to ditch the factory clunky setup for something a bit more solid.

The parts!

View attachment 278865

The destination.

View attachment 278866

Preliminary line up.

View attachment 278867

Cut em and shim em.

View attachment 278868

Next hurdle.

View attachment 278869

Chop chop.

View attachment 278870

Burn em up.

View attachment 278871

Test fit.

View attachment 278872

View attachment 278873

Weld alternator bolt to fork as well as Cut spacer for the M10 bolt to keep the forks from bending/collapsing from torquing fasteners.

View attachment 278874

Mark:
I see you fashioned a nicer looking version of a turnbuckle for the alternator adjustment.

 

[GoforthSRT]

Wow. That's what I love about this, seeing all of the oddball developments that occurred throughout the evolution of these cars. It's funny, when you said "I've never seen a failed one" and I instantly thought of all of the 89+ failed adjuster bushings, and then you clarified that ALL of the commonblock bushings are trash. Yep!

Ya I picked up some marine closed body turnbuckles to modify. I think they were $22 or $23 each. I ordered enough to make more if the concept caught on... wishful thinking.

I think I have completed my due 14 days of pondering to start building my coil pack mounts. I'm really excited about them. I'll attack that this Saturday... and maybe there may be a certain GLHS in the driveway for a visit!!

I leave yall in suspense...

Thanks again guys,
~Mark

 

[stargazer7467]

i need an alternator tensioner like that

 

[GLHS0815]

Yesterday I had the pleasure of stopping in and meeting Mark, his buddy Chris (both cool dudes), and Gold Dust (great project car). It was great to just sit and talk TD cars for like 5+ hours while draining a few beers. Unfortunately I feel we killed a perfectly good day of wrenching on cars, but good to sit and chat with a fellow TD lover!

I look forward to seeing the Gold Dust build as it goes forward and hopefully be able to get a couple photos of his TD and mine together out in the wild.

 

[motomick76]

Very impressive build! Your attention to detail is impeccable. I keep coming back to this thread at details and ideas for my Rampage in the future. Look forward to seeing every step until it is done!

 

[GLHS0815]

Mark,

Any updates on your build?

 

[GLHS0815]

Dipstick!

View attachment 278300
View attachment 278301

Just cleaned it up on the buffing wheel.
Painted the tube and Installed!

View attachment 278302

Looks awesome and I need to do that to my dipstick as well as oil distribution block while my engine is at the machinist. I will follow it up with something called Shark Hide to prevent corrosion and dulling.