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Here is the data sheet back from the fuel injector clinic. They really do amazing work. I dont know what they had to do to get the baseline numbers because i got zero flow from two of them on the test bench. View attachment 270007
Good that you got these rebuilt. Next time you get any Chrysler TD injectors cleaned and flowbenched, tell them to flowbench at 55 PSI and not 43.5 PSI. Your vehicle runs at 55 PSI not 43.5 PSI. Now you will need to calculate the flow to get a true reading what they flow for your application. It is a simple adjustment on their flowbench to crank up the pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
How is everyone doing? I hope the pandemic is treating yall projects well. I know the time off has helped mine!

So since getting the car running. I have moved on to rebuilding the suspension and brakes. I am completely disassembling, installing new poly bushings, ball joints, tie rods ends, struts, strut bearing plates, rotors, wheel bearings, axle seals, and caliper seals.... I think thats it. The car came with minivan KH brakes and braided lines so i had to source rebuild appropriately. Also, everything was cleaned and coated with KBS rust sealer paint.

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Discussion Starter #26
While in there i got to inspect the signs of rust in the wheel well. This is where my other omni gave up the ghost. I hit everything with a wire wheel and was pleased with the minimal rust. I ospho'd what i found and will get it all KBS'd as well when its time for paint.
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Discussion Starter #28
There were some miscellaneous items that ive found that i need such as sway bar bushings (ordered. Also i installed the first axle seal at the back of the knuckle backwards so i smashed that when i torqued the axle nut. Also.. I didnt even know that the "wear sleeve" on the axle shaft that mates to the seal in the knuckle was is a thing. I didnt know it was replaceable... And only one of my seals came with one! So i had to order 2 more seal sets....

The things you think you know.

My last accomplishment was that i got to replace my shelving unit plywoods. The particle board was sagging from 15 years of oil and weight. So i ripped new shelves and got to reorganize all of my TD parts....

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Thats what i got for now! I hope to have rear brake updates within the week. Thanks for tuning in!

~Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So i got the drivers side rear corner coated last weekend and then reassembled today. All went well, minus the fact that i put the lower shoe spring in the wrong spot, i didnt notice this til i got to disassembling the other side... So i gotta but another spring kit cuz im sure i stretched that bitch out by doin it wrong...

Curiously, once the shoes were properly adjusted, and the system bled, i was still able to spin the drum when my buddy was at "full push" on the pedal. However, the parking brake locked it up tight.... Once i got to disassembling the passenger side, i noticed no fluid dripping once i removed the cylinder. I had to put a lot of vacuum on it (with reservoir cap off) before it finally pulled black coffee looking fluid. Im thinking when the braided lines were installed, the passenger side didnt get bled properly. Hopefully both drum will work tip-top once the passenger side is rebuilt and bled.

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Discussion Starter #30
With the rear wheel back on, i got to spin the car so that i could access the rear passenger. Now i get to look at two forced induction Dodge bums when i open the garage.
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looks awesome man, i need to do that to my undercarriage. I planned on pulling the rear axle and fuel tank to fix more rust. Also looking to have the acle beam powdercoated while its out.
 

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Wheel restoration shoul dbe mandatory lol, it makes the car. Not sure where youre located but perfection wheel out of Huntington, IN does great work!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Okay. Ive finished up the last of the brake rebuild. I just need to do one last complete system bleed once i get another bottle of fluid and a helping hand.

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I also coated the 1" drop front springs that i recently picked up in the parts for sale section. Those will go in shortly.
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Discussion Starter #36
I got some more bit in as well. Full gasket set for when the engine comes out for the a568 swap (still looking for another a568 if anyone knows a guy). Also a few pieces for the swap including an fwd short shifter and throwout bearing. I also picked up poly trailing arm bushings and poly swaybar bushings...

Lastly i picked up a die grinder and miscellaneous bits for porting the exhaust manifold and the head that will be going back on her.

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Those with a keen eye can see the beehive springs and Ti retainers for the next head. I sure did buy ls1 springs instead of lt1 springs....
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Here is the Mexican 287, ported 2 piece intake and the lightly ported exhaust manifold.
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Ill start my porting with the exhaust manifold so i can get the hang of the die grinder.

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The plan is to gasket match and clear the big stud boss intrusions and clean up the sharp turns.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Bam! Exhaust manifold is complete! I forgot how dreadful it is to be covered in cast iron splinters. Im very happy with how it came out. I hogged out a bunch of material especially on short turns. As well as really opened up the collector on the shared side.

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On to the head!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Just got back from the welding supply shop! All tooled up now with argon, filler rods, tungsten... The omni's exhaust will be project number 1!

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Discussion Starter #40
Ive finished up the exhaust ports on the head. Theyve been hogged out to match the Exhaust manifold. Ive also cleaned up any nasty stuff from casting. I have pretty much maintained the port shape at the bowl and the tightest point in the runner. I dont know enough to really start changing port shapes... Forum Says: the g head will outflow your manifolds anyways.
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