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Discussion Starter #61
On with the tear down.

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The most important findings are that
1) she has LW rods and NOT heavy duty rods as i was led to believe in another thread
2) the bearing have seen better days. Theres a decent amount of scoring and embedment in the rods bearing, and the crank does have light scoring as well. There wasnt any real trash that ran through the oil, just fine particles of heavy metal that left their marks...

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Im still trying to figure out if im going to get the crank turned or not... Its either get it turned or shoestring sand and polish it (i really wanna try this)
 

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Discussion Starter #62
And finally, the clean up.

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I used Easy Off oven cleaner and a pressure washer. Quick and dirty.
Then i just wiped everything down with a heavily linted rag and sprayed it down with WD40.

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Still criss hatch in the bores

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All clean(ish) and ready for drill the head studs and ball honing. And lets not forget about some go fast engine paint!

Stay tuned folks.
Mark
 

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Mark,
This is a 85 GLHT right? Casting date picture on back of block? Picture of piston tops? 6 or 8 bolt crankshaft? Almost looks like there was a sticker right below distributor hole? On one picture it looks like a sticker, and after cleaning block, that same area appears to have black paint where sticker was. Many times that is where they placed the replacement block sticker. Date code and bearing type on back of bearings? It sort of sounds like someone put rotating assembly (crank and rods) from a 86-88 in your 85 GLHT. Then put original top half of 85 back on it. Yup lots of history on a 35 year old car! If that is the case, compression ratio was less than stock running that G-head. Having a slider camshaft is not such a bad thing. It has more duration that the stock rollers. More frictional losses, but a slightly hotter cam than the stock turbo roller. As long as it isn't worn badly, the camshaft is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Oooo fascinating! Ya the pistons were the circular dish and im 99% i saw the 85 on the block. Also, it is a 6-bolt crank, which sorta sucks cuz i dropped off an 8 bolt fly wheel to the machine shop. Argh.

I wil verify all tomorrow. Great info tho! I really enjoy the forensics of what has been done to these cars after the 35 years you mentioned.

The super low compression would nake sense because she was sooooper doggy when i drove her around before pulling her apart. I chalked it up to "something with the egr or T1 shit must be crapped up..." I never paid any mind since i know the entire top end was getting swapped.

Thank you for the comments!
~Mark
 

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Oooo fascinating! Ya the pistons were the circular dish and im 99% i saw the 85 on the block. Also, it is a 6-bolt crank, which sorta sucks cuz i dropped off an 8 bolt fly wheel to the machine shop. Argh.

I wil verify all tomorrow. Great info tho! I really enjoy the forensics of what has been done to these cars after the 35 years you mentioned.

The super low compression would nake sense because she was sooooper doggy when i drove her around before pulling her apart. I chalked it up to "something with the egr or T1 shit must be crapped up..." I never paid any mind since i know the entire top end was getting swapped.

Thank you for the comments!
~Mark
Mark the 85 G-head pistons will have a very shallow 9cc dish. They came with the HD rods. Dish starts a good 3/4" in from piston OD and has no valve reliefs. The swirl pistons (which would have come with LW rods), had a 14.5cc dish that had valve reliefs and dish was much closer to OD of piston. See attachments.
piston_84.jpg
piston_88.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Nice examples there! I am 99% sure that i have the 85 G-head pistons. Definitely no valve reliefs.

Any ghead turbo piston car come with the LWs? It sure seems odd that they would swap to these junkers.

The pistons are not oversized, i did compare between my T2 pison skirts and the pistons that came out of the motor.

Thank you for the help solving the mystery :)

~Mark
 

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No 1984 or 85 turbo g-head pistons came with LW rods that I am aware of. The NA later engines did though. Why someone would go to the trouble of spending labor to put LW rods on G-head turbo pistons is beyond me. REALLY dumb idea if you ask me. Trying to lighten up recip? 1985 was a mixed bag as far as the bottom end. On the plus side is you got the HD press pin rods, while on the negative end was the 6 bolt crank, the 10mm headbolts, and slightly heavier reciprocating weight with the HD rods. Many would also debate that the g-head flowed better than the swirl.

BTW- when you change your block to 11mm, you will also have to drill out the cylinder head headbolt holes too. Lots of people forget to do you this until they try bolting down the head. In production, only the somewhat scarce 86-87 L-body NA only G-heads came with the g-heads drilled out to fit the 11mm headbolts. Drill out to at least 29/64ths. I personally drill them to 15/32nds.
 

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On with the tear down.
The most important findings are that
1) she has LW rods and NOT heavy duty rods as i was led to believe in another thread
2) the bearing have seen better days. Theres a decent amount of scoring and embedment in the rods bearing, and the crank does have light scoring as well. There wasnt any real trash that ran through the oil, just fine particles of heavy metal that left their marks...

Im still trying to figure out if im going to get the crank turned or not... Its either get it turned or shoestring sand and polish it (i really wanna try this)
There is a technique to polishing a crank. It takes a while to learn how to do it well. General rule of thumb is if you can catch your fingernail on it, you need to polish or turn it. Nothing wrong with either a polished or .010/.010 crank. IMO, spend the $30-40 and have an engine rebuilding machine shop mic it up & polish or if it can't be saved, cut it.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
No 1984 or 85 turbo g-head pistons came with LW rods that I am aware of. The NA later engines did though. Why someone would go to the trouble of spending labor to put LW rods on G-head turbo pistons is beyond me. REALLY dumb idea if you ask me. Trying to lighten up recip? 1985 was a mixed bag as far as the bottom end. On the plus side is you got the HD press pin rods, while on the negative end was the 6 bolt crank, the 10mm headbolts, and slightly heavier reciprocating weight with the HD rods. Many would also debate that the g-head flowed better than the swirl.

BTW- when you change your block to 11mm, you will also have to drill out the cylinder head headbolt holes too. Lots of people forget to do you this until they try bolting down the head. In production, only the somewhat scarce 86-87 L-body NA only G-heads came with the g-heads drilled out to fit the 11mm headbolts. Drill out to at least 29/64ths. I personally drill them to 15/32nds.
So ive checked everything out and it seems that it is indeed an LW swap onto the 85 pistons, in an 85 block. Wierdness.

I received the 9.7mm bit and the M11-1.5mm tap. Im hoping that i wont need the deep tap that i actually tried to order and didnt receive...
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Okay, update.

Ive received the ball hone, engine brush kit, and ring filer. Although looking at the part number, it looks like the rings that i picked up from Cindy are not file to fit...

I still need to get an con rod balancing kit and scale. I also am leaning toward getting a nice dial bore gauge to add to the precision instruments.

I degreased the block again and soaked her in phosphoric acid rust converter from KBS.
This is after she dried.
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I just finished up painting the block with KBS Motor Coater - Chevy Gray. Im happy with the results. It was 100% brushed on.
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The game plan is to get the T2 Rods and pistons disassembled, cleaned and prepped this weekend. As well as clean and polish the crank. Im going for it! Im gonna half ass the crank! We will see how it turns out.

I am hoping to get the rotating assembly reassembled on Labor Day weekend.

Thanks all!
Mark
 

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Block looks nice. Make sure you drill in those head bolt threads dead straight. Use some sort of jig, or you'll be hating life when you go to tighten up those bolts/studs. I used a "u letter" tap, which is a bit smaller than the 9.7mm bit. BTW I've seen 9.5, 9.7 both listed for 11x1.5mm. Remember you already have a thread there from the 10mm bolt threads. use plenty of cutting oil when tapping holes. To tell you the truth I thought I could have used even a smaller than "U" drill bit.
BTW- if your going to intercool your GLHT and are going to use the shorty Wix 1335 filter, you would be wise to cut off most of that collar on the end of the oil stand-off pipe. It comes dangerously close to bottoming out on the back side of filter. It definitely will cause flow restriction issues! No issues using the GLHT 1348 filter, except it doesn't fit well with the GLHS radiator/intercooler/shroud assembly.
Good luck!
 

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Nice build, just noticed it now!!

If you haven't already, it's a good idea to remove the oil filter stand pipe and clean it and the block.

I always knock out the antidrain back ball as it is a restriction to flow, but most don't.

Early Engines didn't have antidrain back valves so DC/MP sold bare pipes as unrestrictors!!

Also, porting the oil pump hole in the block to match the oil pump is often done.

Early Engines normally don't have an oil restrictor to the head but many add one.

Todd can give details if he agrees!!

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Thank you for all of the great info guys! I will absolutely to a look at the standpipe and pump hole. It funny that you mention the restrictor for the head or possible lack of one. I was walking my buddy through the oiling system as a show and tell of how simple it all is and when i got to the restrictor....she gone! Ill put one in since im a fan of oil pressure and probably going roller anyhow.

Todd, youve got me spooked on the drill size now. Ill be doing some more investigation before drilling...
Ya the car will definitely be intercooled. The goal will be to mash as much intercooler between the core support and radiator as possible. Think custom build NPR. I was looking at that filter and considered relocating, as well as doing some tummy tucking on the alternator to suck that gut in.

We will see!
Thank you for all of the support guys,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Very interesting how the routing for the charge piping goes back out the front of the engine bay! What is that intercooler, the endtanks look fabbed.

What intercooler is in the red car? Npr?

The car will retain the grill, this is very important to be to keep it original looking in that respect. The only part of the NPR install that i like so much is the fact that it sits between the radiator and core support. I was looking at picking up an intercooler core from bell intercoolers and recreate the NPR. But im always open to other options!

How did that maserati omni run?

Thank you!
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #80
So i got out into the humidity and got to work breaking down the rods and pistons to start the Berrymans soaking. Ill monitor and swap throughout the day.

This is a pic of the rods and pistons that came out of the car vs the t2 set that will be going in. Just to close the LW rod loop from before.
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I found it interesting that the T2 rods were not all identical meaning forging numbers were the same but different size fonts and orientations, its clear the rods were not the same manufacturing batch. Also they were drilled for squirters on differing sides...
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Some wrist pins were toghter to drive out than others, the T2 sets were pretty gummy... I look forward to seeing what Berrymans will do.

Thanks for tuning in,
Mark
 
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