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Very interesting how the routing for the charge piping goes back out the front of the engine bay! What is that intercooler, the endtanks look fabbed.

What intercooler is in the red car? Npr?

The car will retain the grill, this is very important to be to keep it original looking in that respect. The only part of the NPR install that i like so much is the fact that it sits between the radiator and core support. I was looking at picking up an intercooler core from bell intercoolers and recreate the NPR. But im always open to other options!

How did that maserati omni run?

Thank you!
Mark
The GLHS intercooler was a Spearco core with universal cast end tanks. I was able to dictate where I wanted the inlet and outlet locations. I basically just made it fit. You could call it a semi-custom universal intercooler (lol). That guy is no longer in business. The fabbed part? Well they're all fabbed by someone (lol). My local welder had to go over a couple areas that had pinhole leaks and added the DSM mounting pad for the BOV. How did it run? First time out it went 11.90's @ 119. The BOV was releasing at 18 PSI, so I couldn't turn up boost any higher. It went quicker and faster later on.
The maroon Omni's intercooler is an aftermarket upgrade kit for a popular late model car. Bar and plate design. Supposed to flow 900 CFM with very low pressure drop. I welded on a couple bungs for upper mounting points to core support. The center radiator core support was removed and replaced with something much stronger and the lower radiator mounting brackets where relocated a little over 4 inches to center the radiator in between the intercoolers inlets/outlets. Fits like a glove... now (lol)! Both cars fabbed radiator core support brackets were tied into the latch at the top, and the bottom factory turbo L-bodies front mount reinforcement. Far stronger than the factories flimsy sheet metal support.
The hollowed out bumper one would think must be weakened. Nope, must be three times as strong as the factory L-body bumpers with those four gussets I added. The bumpers are each also tucked in 2-3 inches. Bumper brackets also WAY stronger than originals. I always hated the way the bumper brackets showed on the omni's. Now they don't on my maroon car. Car is now 5-6 inches shorter (hehe).
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Oh wow. I was thinking something similar for my bumper situation. Definitely the shortening of the mounts as well as figure out bumper airflow. I have my old TBI omnis front bumper still so i may do what you have done to get airflow. Ive also considered building a tube bumper in the same spirit as the factory bumper.

Thankk you for posting all of these great pics Todd.

~Mark
 

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The squirters were all supposed to face the firewall side and belt side of engine. If some of yours weren't, well whoops! I would add an oil hole to the small end of rods. I would also change out rod bolts to ARP's and resize & re-balance the rods while your at it. It is the most important fastener in your engine. The factory batched the rods by H & L weights. many times they're stamped on the big end's balance pad. You can polish the beams to get about 10g of weight out of them. You remove stress risers when doing so, making them lighter and stronger.
I personally don't bother with factory 30+ years old rods anymore, unless I know the history of the rods. Who knows how many miles those rods had on them, and how many times they've been rebuilt? Measure center to center distance with your new tools, and that may give you some idea. You previously mentioned you liked oil pressure, well measure side clearance of rods. lots of oil hemorrhaging goes on with rods with too much side clearance. Stronger and lighter rods are available for under $400. I like the Manley or BC rods myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Here are a few updates on the Berryman progress. This stuff is awesome, it literaaly peels away the tarnish and carbon like paint stripper against cheap paint.

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Discussion Starter #86
Okay, making progress...

I got all 4 reciprocating assemblies soaked and wiped down over the course of 4 days.
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Discussion Starter #87
I decided to tackle the head bolt holes today. So i started off with trying to figure out the best way to make a tool to ensure a clean hole thats perpendicular to the deck.

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I turned an insert out of a piece of 0.750" aluminum rod that fit a steel piece that i had sitting around the garage for 15 years...

In reality, the drill ate into the existing threads very very aggressively, and followed the existing bore quite readily. I did opt to use a 9.5mm drill to ensure plenty of meat for the tap.

After filling the drilled holes with wd-40, the m11-1.50 tap made quick,easy work of cutting new, clean threads.

The tapping photo vaporized so you will all need to use some imagination!
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Lastly, i tried out the ball hone. I lube the cylinder with some used motor oil (readily available) and the soaked the ball hone itself with wd-40.

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I started with 15 strokes per cylinder, but then opted to finish with 20 strokes per cylinder to clean up the last of the doodoo.

The bores arent perfect, there are some light marks remaining where the rings sat still for 5 years...

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Waaaay off topic but, the Lowe's buckets. Planters/garden? It gave me an idea, hence the question. Thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Ha! Good observation. Thats my bucket garden that i decided that i wanted to build during the covid "vacation". I have yet to plant anything because im delaying to make sure i "do it right." I am my own worst enemy.

So this afternoon, i decided to upset my wife...
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Cleaning up the pistons after the Berrymans bath.

I used some 600 grit sandpaper to knock down sharp edges on the crowns as well as dress any blemishes. I used some chrome polish on the wrist pins and pin bores to make sure that they all assembled smoothly. Lastly i gave them all a rub down with Nevr Dull to seize a picture perfect moment.
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