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Very interesting how the routing for the charge piping goes back out the front of the engine bay! What is that intercooler, the endtanks look fabbed.

What intercooler is in the red car? Npr?

The car will retain the grill, this is very important to be to keep it original looking in that respect. The only part of the NPR install that i like so much is the fact that it sits between the radiator and core support. I was looking at picking up an intercooler core from bell intercoolers and recreate the NPR. But im always open to other options!

How did that maserati omni run?

Thank you!
Mark
The GLHS intercooler was a Spearco core with universal cast end tanks. I was able to dictate where I wanted the inlet and outlet locations. I basically just made it fit. You could call it a semi-custom universal intercooler (lol). That guy is no longer in business. The fabbed part? Well they're all fabbed by someone (lol). My local welder had to go over a couple areas that had pinhole leaks and added the DSM mounting pad for the BOV. How did it run? First time out it went 11.90's @ 119. The BOV was releasing at 18 PSI, so I couldn't turn up boost any higher. It went quicker and faster later on.
The maroon Omni's intercooler is an aftermarket upgrade kit for a popular late model car. Bar and plate design. Supposed to flow 900 CFM with very low pressure drop. I welded on a couple bungs for upper mounting points to core support. The center radiator core support was removed and replaced with something much stronger and the lower radiator mounting brackets where relocated a little over 4 inches to center the radiator in between the intercoolers inlets/outlets. Fits like a glove... now (lol)! Both cars fabbed radiator core support brackets were tied into the latch at the top, and the bottom factory turbo L-bodies front mount reinforcement. Far stronger than the factories flimsy sheet metal support.
The hollowed out bumper one would think must be weakened. Nope, must be three times as strong as the factory L-body bumpers with those four gussets I added. The bumpers are each also tucked in 2-3 inches. Bumper brackets also WAY stronger than originals. I always hated the way the bumper brackets showed on the omni's. Now they don't on my maroon car. Car is now 5-6 inches shorter (hehe).
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Oh wow. I was thinking something similar for my bumper situation. Definitely the shortening of the mounts as well as figure out bumper airflow. I have my old TBI omnis front bumper still so i may do what you have done to get airflow. Ive also considered building a tube bumper in the same spirit as the factory bumper.

Thankk you for posting all of these great pics Todd.

~Mark
 

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The squirters were all supposed to face the firewall side and belt side of engine. If some of yours weren't, well whoops! I would add an oil hole to the small end of rods. I would also change out rod bolts to ARP's and resize & re-balance the rods while your at it. It is the most important fastener in your engine. The factory batched the rods by H & L weights. many times they're stamped on the big end's balance pad. You can polish the beams to get about 10g of weight out of them. You remove stress risers when doing so, making them lighter and stronger.
I personally don't bother with factory 30+ years old rods anymore, unless I know the history of the rods. Who knows how many miles those rods had on them, and how many times they've been rebuilt? Measure center to center distance with your new tools, and that may give you some idea. You previously mentioned you liked oil pressure, well measure side clearance of rods. lots of oil hemorrhaging goes on with rods with too much side clearance. Stronger and lighter rods are available for under $400. I like the Manley or BC rods myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Here are a few updates on the Berryman progress. This stuff is awesome, it literaaly peels away the tarnish and carbon like paint stripper against cheap paint.

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Discussion Starter #86
Okay, making progress...

I got all 4 reciprocating assemblies soaked and wiped down over the course of 4 days.
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Discussion Starter #87
I decided to tackle the head bolt holes today. So i started off with trying to figure out the best way to make a tool to ensure a clean hole thats perpendicular to the deck.

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I turned an insert out of a piece of 0.750" aluminum rod that fit a steel piece that i had sitting around the garage for 15 years...

In reality, the drill ate into the existing threads very very aggressively, and followed the existing bore quite readily. I did opt to use a 9.5mm drill to ensure plenty of meat for the tap.

After filling the drilled holes with wd-40, the m11-1.50 tap made quick,easy work of cutting new, clean threads.

The tapping photo vaporized so you will all need to use some imagination!
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Lastly, i tried out the ball hone. I lube the cylinder with some used motor oil (readily available) and the soaked the ball hone itself with wd-40.

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I started with 15 strokes per cylinder, but then opted to finish with 20 strokes per cylinder to clean up the last of the doodoo.

The bores arent perfect, there are some light marks remaining where the rings sat still for 5 years...

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Waaaay off topic but, the Lowe's buckets. Planters/garden? It gave me an idea, hence the question. Thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Ha! Good observation. Thats my bucket garden that i decided that i wanted to build during the covid "vacation". I have yet to plant anything because im delaying to make sure i "do it right." I am my own worst enemy.

So this afternoon, i decided to upset my wife...
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Cleaning up the pistons after the Berrymans bath.

I used some 600 grit sandpaper to knock down sharp edges on the crowns as well as dress any blemishes. I used some chrome polish on the wrist pins and pin bores to make sure that they all assembled smoothly. Lastly i gave them all a rub down with Nevr Dull to seize a picture perfect moment.
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Discussion Starter #92
So i got around to doing a full clean on the engine block and have moved into bagging the block after every interaction. I just used hot water with dawn, stiff bristle brush and engine brush set from Jegs. I rinsed and repeated with Marine Clean from POR15 set. That stuff is amazing. Lastly i blew it dry and coated with wd40. Its amazing how rapidly the raw cast started to rust. Literally orange dust within 60seconds.

I picked up a couple more important tools:
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The gear wrench electronic torque wrench is absolutely amazing for those like me who dont want to pay $750 for the Snap On wrench. It will change the way you torque fasteners in the future. Also, i picked up a Mitutoyo 2"-6" dial bore gage .0001". I was planning to do the whole build with the telescoping gages, but then decided the "second opinion" of the dial gage is welcome.

Lastly, i got the ARP main studs installed and torqued so that i can start taking measurements.
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I started mic'ing the bores, X and Y measurements at 3 depths. I mic'd the 4 pistons as well. Im happy with what kve seen so far. I will post the "blueprint" spreadsheet that i assembled to track all of my measurements.

Thank you much!
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #93
So i when i got home today, i decided to polish my crank winky.

I intend to get the crank placed into the block so what needs to happen before then:
1) dress/polish the crankshaft
2) clean the crankshaft
3) mic the crankshaft
4) mic the main bearing housing
5) mic the main bearing shells
6) sort/assign main bearing shells
7) assemble main bearings into block and torque
8) measure/verify main bearing oil clearances with dial bore gage
9) disassemble and install crankshaft

So when i was pondering my crank polishing plan, i realized that i need not "home polish" my crank with the shoe string method...i can home polish it with my lathe!

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Results are dressing with 600 grit sand paper. I cut the paper into 3/4" strips and lubed with WD40.

I had to chuck onto the flywheel hub and use a center in the crank nose, then turn the lathe backwards to turb the crank clockwise to polish it in the correct direction. If i had a bell center i could have chucked the nose to turn the lathe forwards, would have been safer...

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After 1000 grit paper

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After metal polish on a microfiber strip.

There are still some light grooves but no high spots to cut the bearings. The grooves will just "hold oil" as they say.... We will see!

Ill be cleaning to crank tomorrow... Its coming along.

Thanks all
~Mark
 

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Looks good!!

Don't forget to port your block oil pump hole.

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #95
:oops: ya i remembered that i hadnt done so.... And now that the block i in clean mode... It would be a big undertaking to port the pump hole.

Sell me on it. Do our engines have a weakness at that interchange between the Pump and block? Big flow restriction?

Maybe i can mask everything off and only need to clean out between filter and pump...
Ill check it out.

Thank you for contributing! All input is welcome!!

Thank you,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Dangit.... So i did some research and bought into the oil pump porting... So i figured out a way to get her done.

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I made a surgical smock or w/e that would be called. Used some grease to transpose the oil pump pattern since the shadow was washed away. Stuffed the filter hole with an oil soaked paper towel. Then ported the hole with the die grinder. I used my magnet for the brunt of the clean up the rinsed and scrubbed and scrubbed and rinsed til i consider ot clean again...

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Thank you very much for the tip! Thank you very mich for the reads guys.

Thank you,
Mark
 

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Looks good !!!

We appreciate your excellent work and detailed pictures.

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Thank you very much, that is a motivating comment.

So i got a good bit done today. I finished my check list for installing the crankshaft.

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Mic'd the main bearing housings.

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Mic'd the crankshaft.

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Cleaned the crank.

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Mic'd the bearing shells.

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Assembled and double checked with the bore gage.

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Disassembled, cleaned, lubed, reassembled, torque, loosened and set thrust bearing, retorque, check endplay...

Interesting note was that my dial bore gage indicated that i was nearly 0.001" looser on all of my mains than all of the measurements indicated. This is surely a stack of errors in my measurements as well as my inability to accurately measure repeatedly. I started by mathing bearing housing - crank journal - both bearing shells = oil clearance. Setting the bore gage from the micrometer used to directly measure the journal is what indicated the additional 0.0010" than expected. I ended up on the loose side of factory spec. So be it. Lets see how it rides out.

I will post my "blueprint" spreadsheet once i get it all together.

Thanks again
~Mark
 

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There are some old sayings about Engine clearances:

Assemble things a little loose, only you will know.

Assemble things a Little tight, everyone will know!


And:


Keep it wide and keep it to yourself.

Keep it tight and everyone finds out!


Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Im in the meat of her now!

I got to fitting and filing the Sealed Power rings that i picked up from FWDP. The gaps were pretty close but i had to open up a few of them. Goal was .0019"-.0020" top ring and .0017"-0018" on the second.
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My ARP hardware for the rods never arrived, so i picked up some rebuilt rods from FWDP that have new bushing and ARPs already in them. It appears that they are shot peened as well.

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I spent hours mic'ing the big ends and bearing shells and sorting them to fit the crank best. After a little bit of chasing, all of my oil clearances fell between 0.0023"-0.0026" iirc. I will post my blueprint sometime soon, i promise!
 
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