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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)
While diddling with my "blueprint" excel sheet. The numbers werent looking so good for the piston to bore clearance. It was looking like fitments were going to be sloppy.

After taking time to remeasure a few more time, i determined that i was right, she gonna be loose. Yet we press on!

After assigning slugs to holes, i fit the rings.

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You can see some hints to my fitment. My 2 worst cylinders are 4 tenths past definably "worn out". Oh well.

...there arose such a clatter... Its either gonna be Santa Clause or my omni. We will find out.

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Rods to pistons went well. In order to live with myself, i had to take a sharpie to the "Do Not Reuse Wrist Pin Clips" that is so clearly marked in the factory service manual.

Yet we press on....

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Plop, plop right into their new homes.

Big ends torqued up well, no drama. Except for the fact that i had to pull the first piston that i put in back out because i didnt clock the ring gaps nor arp lube the studs... I reveal all, dont judge me lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Not sure how i messed up the last photo attachment... W/e
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Shortblock with evidence of foul play.

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Factory looking short block! None the wiser. The pistons have no rock or alarming movement, so thats good!

Next up is aux shaft bearings, make a oil restrictor for the block, CC the piston crowns and mic the crown to deck height.

Good times.

Thanks again all!
~Mark
 

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Piston dish should be 14.5cc for 2.2 swirl. Doesn't look like you resurfaced the deck of block, so I'm gonna take a stab at pistons being down the hole about .014. Factory is around .012-.013. I'm guessing you lost a bit more with refurbished rods. That would have been easy enough to determine by measuring center to center on big and small bore.
Everything looks good Mark.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
This is true! Ya i did not take the block to the machine shop, so im curious to see where everything ended up. Im motivated to crank out that oil restrictor tonight and possibly make the bearing tools...
Thank you guys for staying tuned and supportive!

~Mark
 

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This is true! Ya i did not take the block to the machine shop, so im curious to see where everything ended up. Im motivated to crank out that oil restrictor tonight and possibly make the bearing tools...
Thank you guys for staying tuned and supportive!

~Mark
With your metal lathe, you should be able to easily make the tools you need to install those aux. shaft bearings. When installing those bearings I use a sharpe marker to locate the block and the bearing, so the oil feed hole gets lined up correctly. You pretty much have one shot to get them right before your buying another set of bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Got onto the oil restrictor project.

My oil feed hole measured 0.402" so i was aiming to make a restrictor with an OD a couple thousands tight for a "more than tight" fit.

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Metal whittling.
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I tapered all but the top 1/4" to ease the press fit install.

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Red lock tite and send her home!

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Put her about 0.050" under the deck surface.

Also, i went for the 0.125" hole since im going with a roller cam setup.

On to the auxiliary shaft bearings...
 

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You probably checked the deck with a straight edge.

I run a large Bastard file diagnostically to note high/low spots.

You could sell a few restrictors if you made extras.

It seems they often get lost.

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
Ya, i have hunk of blanchard ground aluminum that i use as a flatness reference. I wrapped it in some 600 grit paper to highlight the high spots. I was shocked at how many there were. You can see one of them in the photo above on the crankcase hole betw cyl 3 and 4.

Good call on the "sell a few", it would be cool to provide for the community. I gotta pick of some 0.500" aluminum round to save some time! The 1.250" took way too much work.

Thank you!
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Tonight is a "geek night"

I have measured the crown of piston to deck height at both TDC and BDC so that i can calculate actual stroke and displacement.

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The dial calipers werent really the best way to do this, but they are all that i have for this task. Measuring at TDC was a crapshoot because the slightest angle on the calipers sends it all to hell. It seems that im at 0.018" ish to the deck at tdc. And 3.632" to deck at bdc.

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$17 pipette and graduated cylinder set (6-pieces) as well at the glass from a $0.97 picture frame. Time to CC my TDC so that compression ratio can be calculated.

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I used marvel mystery oil for its aesthetic quality. Final volume at TDC was 19.1cc. This is T2 piston with an uncut deck and cut rods so my pistons are a tad deeper in the hole than ideal. This combination coupled with my G-head should give me some of the lowest static compression that the TD community has ever seen...

Dont get me wrong, this wasnt my goal. We shall see how it runs!

Thanks guys,
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Also got the auxilliary shaft bearings installed

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That means the aux shaft and oil pump go into their homes soon enough. Hopefully cylinder head assembly starts this weekend!

Thanks for readin,
Mark
 

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Mark,
You may find this helpful.
Stan Weiss' Automotive performance software
Interactive Calculators
Calculate engine compression ratio.
Spoiler alert- I'm coming up with 7.6005:1
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Lol, my man. Yet again this is another moment where im impressed by the TD community and their dabbling.

I look forward to CC'ing my combustion chambers to see how your number stacks up! I hope my polishing endeavores didnt drop the compression too much further. Not to mention the valve job probably sunk the valves a lil as well.

Thank you for the reference material!
~Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #113
So today felt like 1 step forward and 2 steps back....

Started with clean up of the seal housings for the crank and aux shaft:

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The aux shaft sprocket was particularly rusty so i dropped it in a bath of hot water and oxalic acid.

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Everything cleaned up well. 90min in the acid did wonders for the sprocker. Oxalic acid is the typical "rust dissolver" for in most of those products. Its much cheaper to buy a 5lb bag and mix it yourself than a gallon of the premixed and marketed stuff.

So then everything went to crap. When i attempted to install the aux shaft, she was a no go and bound up at the back half of the bearing. When i installed the bearing last night, it went severely caddy whompus before i straightened it out. I clearly warped it... Now i need a new one.

So i installed the seals, front and rear mains.

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I moved onto the head that i put so much work into, to discover that the prick that labelled it as "rebuilt" had spray painted the entire head. Inside and out. So i need to clean it thoroughly. I thought that most of the grime would be cleaned at the machine shop, but they merely uncovered the worst of the ugly. I had to clean paint from the mating surfaces of the cam caps. Run a rap through the cam cap bolt holes. I was actually convinced that the cam caps were from another head and went ahead and installed a cam to prove that they would work...

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Here she lies... Ready for many more hours spent cleaning up after some one i can no longer identify because i bought it a decade ago.... The only thing that kept me from smashing it into the ground was the 20+ hours i put into the ports and chambers and the $240 i paid for the valve job and gasket surface...

Stay....tuned...
~Mark
 

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Some guys with free time lighten aux shafts and remove the fuel pump lobe.

Many gasket kits come with an int. shaft retainer gasket but it's not needed.

To much end play with a gasket sometimes results in a knocking noise.

Anaerobic sealer is used there along with the other seal retainers.

Been checking for Oxalic acid locally but it's about $50.00 for 2 lb.

What does it get mixed with and what ratio?

Thanks
Randy

PS: Many shops shave or scrape cam bearings that install caddy???

 

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Discussion Starter #115
Thats interesting! When i was rummaging for a cam, i found a shaft from an 89 vnt, which looked naked without the fuel pump lobes. The thought went through my mind...

Ive been using permatex gray so far for my seal retainers. I saw the liquid gasket in the service manual so i went that route instead of the paper gaskets. Interesting possibility with the knocking from shaft endplay.

I got my 5lb bag of oxalic acid crystals from ebay for less that $20. It just mixes with water, the hotter the better to speed up the reaction. Ratios are all over the place. I used about a cup and a half of the crystals per gallon of water. Its impressive stuff!

Thanks!
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #116
Progress...

I spent 4 hours cleaning the head. I used paint stripping gel that is nice to aluminum as not to damage too much.

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Oh how exciting it is to have tarnished aluminum appear out from under the rattle can silver. There was even paint in the lash adjuster bores. What a joke.

I knocked the oil galley plugs out in order to properly clean her up. This is proof that "hot tanking" by the machine shop is useless if the plugs are still in the block/head. No piece should be considered clean under brushes have been passed through every hole.

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The plan is to tap the ends of the oil galleys and installed aluminum 3/8" npt plugs. I will also be drilling and tapping the #4 end of the water jacket to install a -4an male in order to implement a variation of the "#4 cooling mod".

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The head cleaned up well enough. I am in a much better state psychologically and emotionally compared to yesterday.

Tomorrow should be finish prepping and cleaning the head, getting ready to trim it out.

Thanks all,
Mark
 

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Looking good!!

Spray paint can be great or terrible, that's for sure!!

Good point on the oil gallery plugs, they seldomly get cleaned.

I prefer anaerobic on seal retainers but hopefully the gray works.

My Chrysler manual specifies anaerobic which differs from RTV.

I'll be looking for oxalic acid crystals!

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #118
Awesome! Here is the wisdom!

What anaerobic gasket maker do you use? Ive gone to Autozone and requested the anaerobic gasket maker and they looked at me like i had 2 heads.

I did note the specification of "anaerobic sealant" in the FSMs but dismissed it as rtv. The stuff that i scraped from the housing was much harder than rtv, and a brownish red color. Inform me please :).

~Mark
 

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Mark,
You can buy Mopar brand anaerobic sealant right from Chrysler. One 1.7 oz tube should last you a very long time. Mopar brand is called Gasket Maker. RTV works okay on the retainer seals and retainer housings too. The brownish colored sealant of the housings is just aged Mopar Gasket Maker. I know you not a big fan of aluminum colored paint right at the moment, but spraying cast aluminum parts like retainer housings, alternator brackets, intake manifolds, even transmission casings, really looks & helps preserve the aluminum. It prevents the castings from turning to white fuzz (corrosion). I personally like the Seymour brand Alumi Blast. It's good stuff. Just not made to cover up or hide grease (lol). On a plus note, glad you found this out now rather than after engine was back in service!
BTW Kleen Strip makes an aerosol paint stripper that is very powerful. It is in a orange translucent can. Same formula as the gallon can. Works pretty good to get into cracks and crevices. Potent enough to remove powdercoating and epoxy coatings. Does a number on your skin too!
 

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What Todd says.

Unlike RTV, anaerobic cures without oxygen.

Lots of guys use RTV, some with success.

Some with pesky leaks, I abhor leaks.

Also Todd, do you use any type of clear coat over your paint?

Your detail work is always excellent !

Thanks
Randy
 
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