[GLHS0325]

Mark,
You can buy Mopar brand anaerobic sealant right from Chrysler. One 1.7 oz tube should last you a very long time. Mopar brand is called Gasket Maker.

I'm glad you mentioned Chrysler "Gasket Maker".
I'm removing the plate on my A525 and I want to use the right stuff.

 

[4 L-bodies]

I'm glad you mentioned Chrysler "Gasket Maker".
I'm removing the plate on my A525 and I want to use the right stuff.

As opposed to Permatex's The Right Stuff (lol). I see what you did there. BTW that is really good RTV. Spendy, but good.

 

[GoforthSRT]

Wow! The detail work on your build is indeed excellent. I hear you, i do like the aesthetic of freshly painted parts... I am planning on painting the exposed portions of the head, perhaps ill pull the seal housings off and paint them...as well as apply the correct sealant.

Thanks all,
Mark

 

[4 L-bodies]

What Todd says.

Unlike RTV, anaerobic cures without oxygen.

Lots of guys use RTV, some with success.

Some with pesky leaks, I abhor leaks.

Also Todd, do you use any type of clear coat over your paint?

Your detail work is always excellent !

Thanks
Randy

Randy, thanks for your comments. I have soooo many pics of engines I've built over the years. This one above is a VNT. I typically don't clearcoat cast aluminum parts, unless they're valve covers. Then I use automotive catalyzed paints with clear. Also recently powdercoated a one piece valve cover in two stage (base and clear). Looks great, but leaks at rear a little bit. My theory is I think it warped while in the powder coater's oven. It looks far better than new, but I felt like Mark did with his cylinder head. I figured lighting a match to the car would fix it!

 

[GoforthSRT]

So i ordered some stuffs....

Yes thats right... The only productive tasks that i accomplished last weekend (main seals w/ housings reinstalled) will be coming BACK OFF so that i can implement the Alumi Blast and anaerobic gasket maker. That makes last weekend a non productive weekend 😂, except for the gaining of some knowledge.

Those are observant would see that i got the oil galley plugs tapped as well as a #4 cooling mod drilled and tapped into the end of the head.

It was an impressive amount of material that had to come out. A little intimidating.

Paint this weekend.

~Mark

 

[GoforthSRT]

Also... I made a commitment to which turbo i will be using on this "300hp" build.

Factory T03 too small for a real 300whp.
Super 60 T03 is kinda pricey for the archaic architecture.
I have a brand new HE221W that was for a 4bt project... Looked promising but i dont really want the lightning fast boost. I love the factory T03 "wait a second for it"

So... I have a rebuilt HX30 (not HX35) on the way. T3 flange already. Comfortable putting down 350+ to the wheels. Im excited. Arrives in 1 week.

Thanks all,
Mark

 

[GoforthSRT]

Got back at it.

Painted the head, after the new drilling and tapping detritus was cleaned out.

I installed the oil gallery plugs installed as well as the water jacket male fitting using permatex thread sealant.

 

[GoforthSRT]

My box from FWD Performance arrived. The contents of which containing 2 sets if intermediate shaft bearings so i have two more chances to get them installed correctly.

Additionally, i removed the main seal housings so that i could paint them and reinstall with anaerobic sealant.

Here is reassembly after intermediate shaft installed, Mellings oil pump, original pickup with now enlarged sucky hole, and freshly painted seal housings reinstalled.

Wix filter came pre dented....

On to the head.

So ya, Todd, i forgot to drill the damned head bolt holes til after id cleaned and painted the head... So i popped them out to the 15/32" you had recommended previously. After that clean up, i moved on to assembly.

This is the results of the comp valve job grind and backcut valves.

I was excited to find Manley part numbers on the valves. Score!

Unfortunately they are not oversized...

Here are all of my cobbled together parts for the job.

I didnt capture the Comp beehives that im using. Otherwise titanium retainers, LS1 valvestem seals i believe, VK144 7* locks for the intake valves. Im not happy with the fit of the 3groove locks so im going to try another brand and application.

Lastly im dead in the water for the real assembly because ive misplaced all of the valve spring seats/shims that i own. So i ordered some sets of .030" and .015" to get it dialed in.

Thanks for watching,
~Mark

 

[GoforthSRT]

Oil pan time...

She showed some signs of wear. Small dings and dents that started to seed some rust. The orange gel stripper did okay at first then started having problems getting under the paint/coating/armor.

I decided to use a mechanical stripper. The original coating was pretty impressive!

I was going to coat the oil pan with the KBS, but the KBS seemed to have a shelf life problem...

So after treating with Ospho, i hit her with some self etching primer.

Lastly, i broke out some gloss black, trying to duplicate the original finish. I ended up with possibly the most unsatisfactory shaker can job ive ever sprayed. It has that exceptional 600 grit sandpaper texture to it. This may be due to the fact that i had to scab a nozzle from a primer can because the original on the black was shiestered out.

It could be worse, maybe.
~Mark

 

[4 L-bodies]

Mark,
I can't imagine you needing to shim more than .030. I once was trying all sort of stacking to gain installed height using certain retainers, keepers, valve spring shims, custom valve tip heights, etc. After doing a few heads using only a .015 shim, I steered away from that, fearing there wasn't enough meat there to hold up for the long haul. With the comp cams beehives (conicals), your going to have more closed pressure than is really ideal, vs. having too little.

I'm glad you discovered that the head bolt holes needed to be enlarged now, vs finding out after everything is assembled and having assembly lube all over the head.

Lots of dented up oil pans. I guess a bunch of people in the past thought that was a good place to jack up front end of car (lol). I just purchased a 86 GLHT and the front engine mount bracket was mounted upside down on the radiator core support (lol). I typically spend x amount of time repairing all the previous mechanics mistakes. That same car the fuel pressure regulator was teed into the PCV valve. On a early T1 log engine, the PCV source is under the throttle body, so in my case the fuel pressure regulator only saw vacuum (lowering fuel pressure instead of raising it during boost). Glad that car only saw stock boost levels, otherwise it would have eventually cracked some ring lands. That is just part of the deal I guess of owning something that has had numerous owners spanning decades.
I'm sure you found some 7° square groove keepers for the intakes, but probably not the exhaust. How do the stock multi-groove exhaust keepers fit?
Check with some modeling clay your clearance from your oil pan pickup to the bottom of your now dent free oil pan. Hopefully it is a bit off the floor of the pan. I've seen some oil pans not even fit flat on the block because it was teetering on the pickup (lol).
Everything is coming together nicely Mark.

 

[Glhs60]

Any up dates??

Hopefully you're just busy and not ill or anything.

Thanks
Randy

 

[GLHS0325]

I Love watching this build.
It's motivational and inspiring.

 

[GoforthSRT]

Fellas! Touching base with you. Im sorry for the delays in the project updates. Ive become distracted per usual for me. I swear i have project ADD...

Im at the point where the head is ready to bolt on and i still need to drill the exhaust manifold for the hx30 t3 bolt pattern. I have been summoning courage to get my ass back in the garage and get the motor in place. Perhaps that would be a good "by February" challenge...

Thank you guys for your support, you guys inspire me!

~Mark

 

[GLHS0325]

Fellas! Touching base with you. Im sorry for the delays in the project updates. Ive become distracted per usual for me. I swear i have project ADD...

Im at the point where the head is ready to bolt on and i still need to drill the exhaust manifold for the hx30 t3 bolt pattern. I have been summoning courage to get my ass back in the garage and get the motor in place. Perhaps that would be a good "by February" challenge...

Thank you guys for your support, you guys inspire me!

~Mark

I always enjoy this build.

 

[Glhs60]

As long as you don't have the china virus we won't worry about you.

Take your time on your Engine.

Thanks
Randy