good plans?

I would not go .040 over. I think that you might not be able to go that big on all the cylinders anyway. You should just go big enough so that they can get the cylinders into the correct shape.

A 2 bar cal will allow the computer to supply fuel up to 14 psi. Anything higher you would have to supply with higher fuel pressure or extra injectors. A 3 bar cal will supply up to around 28 psi without any extra injectors.

What calbration you run will determine the size of the injectors.

I have a common block 2.5 boared .020 over, TU 3 bar cal, 2.5 exhaust, + 40 injectors, 555 tranny in my 85 Shelby charger. I think you made the right decision with the 3" exhaust.

You didn't say what your boost goals are, power levels, turbo your using, street/strip etc.

I forgot to say I want to run about 25psi or more (what ever will get me in the 12's) but still turn the boost down to drive it on the street and be able to run pump gas. I want to get a new turbo maybe a t3/t4 hybrid but with all the money I'm putting in my motor and tranny that will probley have to wait a month or two so my wallet can recover the blow. From what I understand as long as my fuel system can feed the motor with gas and all my enternals in the motor and tranny can take it (and my turbo) I can put as much boost as I want. is that true or is their other things I have to worry about? thanks.

Engine wise, I would recommend a CB, but if not, then you need your block blueprinted, make sure deck is flat, CB/T2 rods, arp head studs and arp rod bolts, forged pistons, mild port job, 89T1 roller cam, good exhaust, 2.5 inch or 3inch, 255 fuel pump, 3 bar cal, the list goes on, lol!

why a roller cam I thought that my car came with the best cam stock. also what's CB?

89 and up blocks are called common blocks, there much stronger than earlier blocks and can take a pounding. Go to www.thedodgegarage.com and read all about them or do a search on here!

You have a slider cam and are prone to going flat and making tons of noise. The rollers cams are a little less aggressive but make up for it in reduced friction and noise.

How much would a CB cost? why are they stronger? and could I just balance my motor instead of blue printing or switching blocks? or would it not be relable?

twitch27 said:

How much would a CB cost? why are they stronger? and could I just balance my motor instead of blue printing or switching blocks? or would it not be relable?

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Go read up on them at the dodge garage.
As for cost, you can get one for anywere from $50 to a couple hundred, check the junk yards and our swap meet.

They can take 400 WHP reliabley whereas the older blocks things start to flex and go boom!

would a non-turbo 89 block out of a shadow work?

scratch that last post. So here's my new plan please tell me if theirs any holes. Get a 89 common block, bore it out .20 over or so, forged connecting rods, forged pistons, stronger head studs. stronger rod bolts,(would I need a forged crank?) port the head, make it a T2, bigger injectors, 3 bar calibration,and a A555 tranny w/ the cable shifting out of a tona. Also will everything off my non-common block fit on the common block? (head,oil pan, etc...)

You don't need the forged crank. The crank, front and rear seal plates, oil pan, and oil pickup are different on a common block.

I hope you have $$$$. Depending on what parts you get I would estimate $3000 to $4000 for what you have described so far.

twitch27 said:

scratch that last post. So here's my new plan please tell me if theirs any holes. Get a 89 common block, bore it out .20 over or so, forged connecting rods, forged pistons, stronger head studs. stronger rod bolts,(would I need a forged crank?) port the head, make it a T2, bigger injectors, 3 bar calibration,and a A555 tranny w/ the cable shifting out of a tona. Also will everything off my non-common block fit on the common block? (head,oil pan, etc...)

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Don't need forged connecting rods, stock are strong enough!
ARP head studs and rod bolts-great idea!

Everything else sounds good.