[Wizard]

And explained awful lot.

Idles RICH, weak at crack of throttle (lean) then transtitions quickly towards rich as I open throttle slightly more and stays there for cruise. If I open bit more, leans out to yellow (Stoich) near rich side. This where I notice NICE power and that is squarely in the cruise area explains the POOR MPG. Open throttle more wider, engine just revs and less power so accelerates slower and delays the kickdown too. Goes toward lean and leaner as you open further. At full Throttle, gauge goes wild (all LEDs flickering).

Gee still have lot to tune that weber carb! SIGH.

1 wire narrowband sensor, autometer brand 20 LED in a circle. I know there are limitations.

I don't have have money for megasquirt... SIGH, that would get this sorted out in a jiffy.

Cheers, Wizard

 

[moparfwdsleeper]

get a wideband, those narrowbands lie

 

[SUPER60omni]

narrow bands are for tuning natuarlly aspirated honduhs Yes they tell you when its already to late and they are accurate about .00001% of the time....but they are cheap thats why people buy them. They may look "cool" but dont rely on them. My car wacked 13's on the dyno....yet my BS autometer A/F said it was WAAAAYYYYYY rich. And yes it was a new sensor.

 

[Wizard]

Oh well. I had my fun, that was 80 bucks thing. Wideband is way out of reach til next pay.

Which is GOOD wideband kit available from Benson Auto parts? I thought one of them was rebadged innovative LC-1?

Cheers, Wizard

 

[charger R/T]

read what some of you wrote then re-read what the thread starter wrote. He isn't pushing too much boost because he is NA. I can't see buying a wideband for an NA car. He basicly said it did show him his poor MPG. I would use it to tune. I would convert the car to a 4 wire O2 sensor to try to make it more accurate. Good luck with it.
Tim

 

[Wizard]

Thanks, and correct that I've this vehicle info on the left.

Carb is weber 32/36 DFEV, 2.2L stock, auto. Replaces the worn out holley junk in order to get my hands on the gas usage via tuning weber with available parts instead of poor info with that 5220 holley carb.

The O2 sensor I put in is NTK 1 wire and it does get up to temp rather quickly and stablizes, still reads stable even at idle.

Cheers, Wizard

 

[GLHNSLHT2]

make sure all your grounds are soldered and ran to the battery. It'll make the gauge much more accurate.